Ask your chiller related issues here

Yep, just plugged in a 1/3hp Teco and that could not keep up either. Looks like I need to place an order tomorrow AM for a 1/2hp; what a bummer!
 
I do not know how your climate is at your place but where I live, the advice to follow is to buy a chiller 1 step up than what you'll need. Just in case you get hot weather for a prolong time. So if you need a 1/2hp chiller, get the 1hp ones instead. The chiller would have extra power to weather the hot months without straining or over worked. This is the advice that was handed down to me from other chiller user in my country. We do get hot weather a few month in the year.

Hope this helps!
 
That's the problem. There is no real tweener hp chiller. It goes from 1/2hp right to 1hp with very little to choose from in the 3/4hp category.
 
your in NY dude i grew up in buffalo you max in the low 90's with a occasional freakish 95+ lol a 1/2 should do ya but if conserned and no a/c in your house like i grew up in you mite need the 1 hp
 
Yea, close to NYC....not quite the Buffalo cool breeze:-).

Looking at the Tradewinds 1/2hp compact unit IL-49-S. States it does 4900 btu at 8amps with 1"inlet/outlet. Apparently their btu numbers are spot on and not overstated. Did quite a bit of homework and you go over 1/3hp, these chillers really shine.

Is that what you and others feel is a good bet? Their Super 1/2hp will probably be overkill for my application??? JBJ's 1/2hp states 6000 btu, but I have heard is not actual. So the jury is still out until I pull the plug and purchase.
 
I have a Pacific coast 1/2 hp chiller. i picked it up used with no warranties, and i took it home and checked it over, and everything looks great. I plugged it in with no water running through it to make sure the pump and condencer works. it turned on and started cooling.

next i hooked up a pump with a bucket of water to flush and to check for leaks before i put it in the house.

everything looked good, but the tempature gauge was set at 73 deg (for trial purposes) and the water was reading 75 deg. so i figured it would turn on a run for a bit. i walked away for a few minutes and came back to a reading in the low 60's.

i am mechanically inclined, so fixing isnt a problem, but i need some dirrection.
I am guessing there is a thermal swich that turns the chiller on and off, but dont know where to look. Can you give me some insite on where to look, or what to look for?

the chiller is a
Pacific Coast
C-0500
110-115v
 
super size me

super size me

my tank is 1010 gal. It has a surface area of about 38 square feet of surface area. i guess the average room temp with lights on will be about 78 degrees. I would like to keep the water at 74. There is a sump area connected to the system. what is the preferred size of chiller?
 
dahenley said:
I have a Pacific coast 1/2 hp chiller. i picked it up used with no warranties, and i took it home and checked it over, and everything looks great. I plugged it in with no water running through it to make sure the pump and condencer works. it turned on and started cooling.

next i hooked up a pump with a bucket of water to flush and to check for leaks before i put it in the house.

everything looked good, but the tempature gauge was set at 73 deg (for trial purposes) and the water was reading 75 deg. so i figured it would turn on a run for a bit. i walked away for a few minutes and came back to a reading in the low 60's.

i am mechanically inclined, so fixing isnt a problem, but i need some dirrection.
I am guessing there is a thermal swich that turns the chiller on and off, but dont know where to look. Can you give me some insite on where to look, or what to look for?

the chiller is a
Pacific Coast
C-0500
110-115v
Click to expand...

the thermistor is located in the heat exchanger, just to make sure you do have a pump pumping water into the chiller? it sounds like there is no water flow going thru the heat exchanger. you can check the accuracy of the thermistor by checking your tank water temp with a lab grade thermometer to the temp reading on the chiller with the chiller not calling for cooling
 
grosse schlumpf said:
my tank is 1010 gal. It has a surface area of about 38 square feet of surface area. i guess the average room temp with lights on will be about 78 degrees. I would like to keep the water at 74. There is a sump area connected to the system. what is the preferred size of chiller?
Click to expand...

you can calculate you but heat load by getting your total wattage of your equipment ballasts , pumps , heaters exct.... multiply that # by 3.5

then your lighting in wattage total x 4.25

add the 2 totals together that is the amount btu's your tank is putting off

for example if your lighting were 800 watts and the total of the rest of your equipment were 520 watts
800x4.25= 3400 btu's
520x3.5= 1820 btu's
totals 5220 btu's that would require a 1/2 ton/hp chiller

there are 12000 btu's per ton/hp of refridgeration
do your research on the chillers you are looking at and get one that just exceeeds the btu's you require most manufactures will round up the btu's

hope this helps
 
I hooked a pump to the chiller and it works great. It just doesn't quit cooling. The digital gauge reads exactly what the bucket temperature is. I'm asking what makes the chiller quit working so it doesn't freeze my tank.
 
the controler makes it quit cooling you have to set it to your desired temp if the controler is not shutting it off it may be bad
 
it could be a bad controler that is what shuts off the chiller, you can contact pacific coast and see what a new one is prob in the $150 range since they are shipped from china. another alternitive would be to use a Johnson controls model 419-A refridgeration controler it is more adjustable than the factory units and runs around $50 , you will have to water proof the thermistor it comes with , it can be done with heat shrink tubing.
first contact pacific coast they have a support line and a tech support line that can help you figure out if the controler is bad or not, and recheck your set point
 
autodave said:
I have a JBJ Artica 1/3 HP ..Do you know if the temp gauge ever needs to be calibrated?
Click to expand...

it should not need to be if its giving a false reading. but it it were you would need to replace the thermistor i dont believe the factory controlers commonly used can be adjusted
 
Xgame2k said:
What to do when your chiller stops chilling? I just bought a chiller, but it's not chilling.
Click to expand...

if connected correctly and not too much flow thru the chiller there may be a refridgerant issue, since it is new i would contact the manufacture and go thru thier check list and sequence of tests to see what the issue is being that its under warranty
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
Coralife Chiller Error E1
Replies
1
Views
231
Reefing102
Reefing102
F
Low ORP
2
Replies
20
Views
1K
griss
griss
A
How to Install Linear Actuators for Easy Lifting of Your Reef Tank SPS Light
Replies
4
Views
337
oreo57
oreo57
Guygettnby
If not for bad luck...
2
Replies
21
Views
668
leebca
L
M
Return to Reefing
2 3
Replies
40
Views
2K
kelly_12
K
Back
Top