<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6633972#post6633972 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rutledgek
The .25 ammonia could be a result of everything melting in your tank. But it could be cause for concern. I would definetly bring your temp up at least to 78. I believe the average for the last few months of TOTM has been 80. I keep mine between 80 and 81 depending on night vs. day. I would check out a good refractometer. Something Fishy in PA has one for sale for 37 + tax and it has been working flawlessly for me. Having a refractometer is nice because it is a relatively cheap way to maintain something as vital as salinity. I would stop using the spring water as well. The water could be hard and have a high iron level, which wouldnt be good at all. I currently use Walmart brand drinking water which is RO/DI. You could use distilled water as well. As for chlorine and chloromine, letting the fresh water sit for over a day would allow that to disipate into the atmosphere, bubbling air through it would hasten that process. There are plenty of things to try. In the mean time take a tank water sample to your LFS and have them test it to check your measurements, they can even test copper. Which unless it comes back as positive you really wont need to again(except for possible quarentine use).
So what I would do in this order.
1. Bring the tank temp up to 80, or at least 78 (76 is to low IMO). Do this gradually. I wouldnt go more than 1-2 degrees a day.
2. Go buy drinkign water(should say Reverse Osmosis on the
bottle) walmarts refillable station is RO/DI and they list the last TDS reading on the machine. Do a substantial water change with this water.
3. Take a water sample to your LFS, usually the test for free. Have them run an ammonia test and see if the .25 is accurate or not. If it is do a large water change, hold off on the fish, and do regular small water changes. You can also use Kent Amquel to bring down the ammonia quickly, but it doesnt address the underlying problem. If that problem is a cycle the backteria will catch up but you need to do water changes until it does, if it is dieoff the same, if it is the freshwater you use then it will have to be changed or the system will not catch up.
Have them check for copper as well. If any is detected it is possible to salvage the tank but it could take a while (months). Seachem's Cuprisorb is supposed to be good at removing copper and color changes as it absorbes it. The cuprisorb can also be regernated with muratic acid.
4. Finally i highly suggest a refractometer to check and maintain salinity. I hope this helps. I laid out the best and cheapest way of narrowing down your problems. All you will need to actually purchase is the water and a copper test and cuprisorb if the LFS says the tank had copper. Let me know if you have any questions.
I don't think I'd bring myself to spend $499 on a single test kit... LOL. You could probably ask Randy how much he spent, he measured his value to be 10-15ppb in his tank, and being a professional chemist, I'm sure he's got the top notch stuff. 
