Has anyone built their own? The premise behind thsee are very simple (if I'm not mistaken). Correct me if I'm wrong, but all they really do is top off your tan with rodi water as the water evaporates. So going off of this I have it in mind to make my own rather than spend the money to purcahse one. I wanted to see if anyone has taken the time to actually make one of their own and if so, how its been working for them.
Ato
- Thread starter jspearse
- Start date
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
I just used this kit which has all the parts except the pump. There are a bunch of options in that department ranging from an aqualifter to a tunze replacement pump up to a peristaltic. Plus being a DIY kit you get the enclose to keep things dry and its easy to find the parts if a float switch goes bad.
skeeter_ca
Active member
skeeter_ca
Active member
That 12v 3watt pump would be great if your freshwater supply tank is under or near the aquarium stand. At a max 44gph it is not going to pump very far. If you want to place your pump far away from your tank, like your garage or some other room, then a stronger pump will be needed.
skeeter
skeeter
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
skeeter_ca, do you realize that if you wired the float switches in series you wouldn't need the second relay?
Not sure what you are trying to accomplish there but that is exactly what the kit I linked to does exactly that with the added benefit of using the relay to control an outlet so you can use any pump you want. Wire it to a standard extension cord and it will handle a 120V pump.
Not sure what you are trying to accomplish there but that is exactly what the kit I linked to does exactly that with the added benefit of using the relay to control an outlet so you can use any pump you want. Wire it to a standard extension cord and it will handle a 120V pump.
Very good point - they are feeble little pumps. Fine for a simple ATU over a short run and fairly small head height (mine does about 1.5m) but wouldn't expect it to do too much more...
Tim
skeeter_ca
Active member
Yes i realize that. I want redundant relays just for the very rare case of one sticking closed. My current old system(8yrs old) uses only one relay and one float. I had a overflow problem and it works fine again but i am not sure if it was the switch or the relay sticking. relays are not expensive so i thought it better to just have two.
skeeter
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
So you had a failure but never figured out the cause? I would have figured out why it stopped working before I just made things more complicated. Then again, I'm an engineer.
I've never had a relay fail but have had several float switches go on me. That's what why the second float switch is used; if the first fails closed, the second will open the circuit and turn off the pump. Don't need a second relay to do that. Not saying a second relay won't work, it just always stays energized which I would think could become problematic over time.
I've never had a relay fail but have had several float switches go on me. That's what why the second float switch is used; if the first fails closed, the second will open the circuit and turn off the pump. Don't need a second relay to do that. Not saying a second relay won't work, it just always stays energized which I would think could become problematic over time.
rfgonzo
New member
Skuttle Valve & Float Assembly A17-1731-013
A17-1731-013
Skuttle Valve & Float Assembly A17-1731-013
This is what I used to use years ago it's a humidifier float valve that I would remove all metal parts and replaced with plastic then I would run a 1/4 Airline to it, it's a gravity fed unit so your top off needs to be higher than what your sump is. Works very well unless you're using kalk it will end up clogging up the float valve.
A17-1731-013
Skuttle Valve & Float Assembly A17-1731-013
This is what I used to use years ago it's a humidifier float valve that I would remove all metal parts and replaced with plastic then I would run a 1/4 Airline to it, it's a gravity fed unit so your top off needs to be higher than what your sump is. Works very well unless you're using kalk it will end up clogging up the float valve.
MidwesternTexan
Average Joe
Hello?
pumps? relays? AC power? DC power?
My system uses a DIY ATO,
That never has to be refilled,
uses no power, (correction, Gravity IS a power)
no sensors,
no pumps,
Nadda, nothing.
It has worked flawlessly for 3 years, and currertly keeps the SG of
my ~260 system Rock solid.
I have a thread on it on at least 2 other boards.
Your OP stated how simple this really is- to build a DIY ATO.
Doing it right is very low $$, and zero maintenance.
Then again, it seems most in this hobby want to complicate things,
buy this system, method, reactor, spend $$, etc.
If interested, I'll describe it here again, or link you to one of the other threads.
You will have to be able to simply use gravit to make it work,
and have an RO/DI to keep the resevoit fed, or else lift buckets.
Many however can't use Gravity on their systems,
or swear it can't be that simple, only to spend big bucks on a system the often sticks, fails, needs maintenance, etc.
pumps? relays? AC power? DC power?
My system uses a DIY ATO,
That never has to be refilled,
uses no power, (correction, Gravity IS a power)
no sensors,
no pumps,
Nadda, nothing.
It has worked flawlessly for 3 years, and currertly keeps the SG of
my ~260 system Rock solid.
I have a thread on it on at least 2 other boards.
Your OP stated how simple this really is- to build a DIY ATO.
Doing it right is very low $$, and zero maintenance.
Then again, it seems most in this hobby want to complicate things,
buy this system, method, reactor, spend $$, etc.
If interested, I'll describe it here again, or link you to one of the other threads.
You will have to be able to simply use gravit to make it work,
and have an RO/DI to keep the resevoit fed, or else lift buckets.
Many however can't use Gravity on their systems,
or swear it can't be that simple, only to spend big bucks on a system the often sticks, fails, needs maintenance, etc.
skeeter_ca
Active member
You can easily find all plastic float valves now-a-days. I have tried them and did not have good results. Even though the freshwater is nice and clean it always seems like something gets in there and causes a slight leak which means all the freshwater drains into the sump.
I decided not to worry about exactly what happened and just replace the system altogether. I had been thinking about doing anyway since the system is so old and had no redundancy.
As for one relay staying energized I do not believe I will have that problem. No, i'm not a rocket scientist
and I don't claim to have super powers and be able to precisely time both switches so they go off at the same time. What I do have is a 3/8" line that is approximately 50ft long. When the ATO pumps shuts off almost all of the water in it drains into my sump and raises the water slightly higher than the floats shut off level. This happens every time and is very predictable.
As for a relay failing or sticking in the closed position my experience has showed me that it can and does happen. Being an automotive technician for about 35yrs I have seen many relays stick on, both mechanical and intergraded circuit relays. It can and does happen. I understand that a lot of ATO systems use only one relay with two float switches in series and that is fine. But I just chose to add one more item to make me feel a little better.
skeeter
I decided not to worry about exactly what happened and just replace the system altogether. I had been thinking about doing anyway since the system is so old and had no redundancy.
As for one relay staying energized I do not believe I will have that problem. No, i'm not a rocket scientist
and I don't claim to have super powers and be able to precisely time both switches so they go off at the same time. What I do have is a 3/8" line that is approximately 50ft long. When the ATO pumps shuts off almost all of the water in it drains into my sump and raises the water slightly higher than the floats shut off level. This happens every time and is very predictable.As for a relay failing or sticking in the closed position my experience has showed me that it can and does happen. Being an automotive technician for about 35yrs I have seen many relays stick on, both mechanical and intergraded circuit relays. It can and does happen. I understand that a lot of ATO systems use only one relay with two float switches in series and that is fine. But I just chose to add one more item to make me feel a little better.
skeeter
Last edited:
skeeter_ca
Active member
Howdy Texan,
I would love to hear about your Top-Off system. Please tell us or give us the link. I always love to hear new ways to do things, whether I can use them in my setup or not.
skeeter
I would love to hear about your Top-Off system. Please tell us or give us the link. I always love to hear new ways to do things, whether I can use them in my setup or not.
skeeter
shiftline
New member
Last night I decided to build my new ATO with dual sensors for back. Optical is the main ultra precise one with a float as a fail safe
I still have to add a nice connector and sensor holder. Stay tuned! More details on my site at http://fishtankprojects.com/diy-aquarium-projects/diy-auto-top-off-arduino-optical-ato.html
I still have to add a nice connector and sensor holder. Stay tuned! More details on my site at http://fishtankprojects.com/diy-aquarium-projects/diy-auto-top-off-arduino-optical-ato.html
