Attempting to breed clownfish - log
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FB
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I only saw two GSM's hatch for me. The other turned white pretty quick this time. The two that I saw did not live long.
Occelaris Pair 1 should hatch tonight. I have been having a lot of problems lately getting eggs from this pair past day 1 or 2. I'm trying to narrow down what the problems could be and I have several variables.
For Occelaris 1 I have never had problems raising them before so I'm not really sure what is going on. I am getting zero eggs disappear they are always all fertile from what I can tell so that's not it. My cyano problem continues in my display tank so the possibility of cyano toxins damaging the larvae is a great possibility. The third problem is my Instant Algae. The colour was never super green more of a brownish green. The rots are doing fine on it and I had a GSM batch start meta using it and then the water quality went south and they died. Right now I am not blaming they Instant algae yet as this should not cause day 1 loses. It may affect nutritional value of the rots but if they don't get to eat them it can't be that. So as of yet I have not been able to nail it down to a single thing yet. Of course by trying to change something I am adding another variable into the mix.
So I am looking for some advice with this hatch. What should I do.
Option 1
I can use 100% new artificial saltwater temp/sg matched to parent tank, and then transfer the eggs to the new tank This will help me to identify if toxins are in the water from the cyano that are killing all larvae on day 1. Of course this has a drawback of possibly damaging the eggs by changing the water parameters too quickly. However I bet eggs are pretty resiliant to water parameter changes. However if the toxins affect the eggs development right from the start I will not know. This is the option I am choosing unless convinced otherwise.
Option 2
I can use 100% parent tank water and run all of it through a hefty amount of carbon before using it in the larvae tank. This will help if it is toxins and they can be removed by carbon. I added new carbon to the parent tank just before they laid these eggs so hopefully they have not been exposed to the toxin and it is not in the water. Howeve in this option if they all die on day one again it won't really identify the problem.
So as you can see I am trying to identify the problem by changing only one thing at a time. If it dosen't work I will try something else next time. Again I am having a hard time blaming the instant algae and believe it is a water quality issue with Occelaris Pair 1. The GSM's could possibly be issue with them being new breeders.
you help is greatly appreciated.
FB
dazed
New member
Fb; Is the cyano issue in your reef or your breeding system? Have you tried to treat the cyano issue directly with something like Boyd Chemi-Clean? Just a thought maybe option #3, I have used it from time to time to knock out the cyano and have seen no negative effects in my tank. I do not know if the product would have an impact on the eggs themselves.
FB
New member
It's in my Reef (Well what I call my reef, not much good happening in there). I have used a cyano product before. It went away for about 3 weeks and came back pretty strong. My reef is doing very poorly. My SG dropped from 1.026 to 1.021 without me noticeing. So I have been doing topoff with new sw for the past 4 days and it's only up to 1.024 now. I have noticed that things have started to perk back up and the cyano appears to be receeding again. Unfortunately for whatever reason my 5 BTA have bleached pretty bad. It probably was the sg drop. Hopefully now that I am correcting this problem they will start to come back.
I am going to try and solve the source of the problem instead of the problem. I imagine it is caused mostly by feeding to much and lack of flow!
FB
FB
New member
Almost 100% hatch last night. This time I have them in a Blue Round Tub. It's a 17g tub. I only put about 5 gallon of water in it. My light is sitting on the top of it. Heater and air are in the middle. It is actually pretty amazing the flow pattern you get with these.
I added more rotifers this morning and started a drip of FW with instant algae and small amount of ammonia-lock. I am using an old hood from my 30G FW I had which sits on top. With both lights on the larvae were all against the side even with pretty green water. I turned one of the bulbs to turn the light off and they were mostly still against the sides with only one light. Not sure why, hopefully they will start to move into the water column.
Some larvae were swimming poorly tumbleing and spinnig in circles. Other had eatan some rotifers and were plump.
Hoping they will still be all alive when I get home tonight.
FB
I added more rotifers this morning and started a drip of FW with instant algae and small amount of ammonia-lock. I am using an old hood from my 30G FW I had which sits on top. With both lights on the larvae were all against the side even with pretty green water. I turned one of the bulbs to turn the light off and they were mostly still against the sides with only one light. Not sure why, hopefully they will start to move into the water column.
Some larvae were swimming poorly tumbleing and spinnig in circles. Other had eatan some rotifers and were plump.
Hoping they will still be all alive when I get home tonight.
FB
FB
New member
Occelaris Pair 1: Batch VI just hatched so I don't exepct VII for a while. After starting fresh with a numbering system for this pair here are where everything is at.
Batch I - Hatched 11/23 still have 30 or so growing well. They are being fed New Life Spectrum Grow. They are a really good size for only being 2 1/2 months old.
Batch II - 100% loss after 15 days. This batch never looked good and never progressed through meta even after 11-15 days.
Batch III - 100% loss within 12-18 hours.
Batch IV - 100% loss within 12-18 hours.
Batch VI - Currently at about 24 hours for some 5 hours for others.
Occelaris pair 2: Not sure what is going on with this pair right now. The female always seems to have a swollen abdomen curious if she has a parasite or something. She has always eatan well and never showed any signs of distress. I bought her off someone shutting down a nano and he had had her for some time. He claimed they had laid eggs twice but did not provide any proof. I got the pair for $25.00 so I can't complain. I'm wondering if I should treat these two with something.
Occelaris Pair 3: batch II eggs have thinned out to almost 30 again. With an expected hatch date of the 9th I doubt I will have any left to play with.
GSM pair 1: No new eggs yet.
B&W pair 1: The female in this pair has become a HUGE B***H. She will attack even if the tips of my fingers touch the water. When I am standing in front of the tank she comes right to the front as if saying "I am going to stand my ground.....Just try and stick your hand in my tank".
Picasso pair 1: These two still don't venture too far away from each other. However they have been coming out to accept food more now which is a good thing. They are both almost the same size so I cannot tell which is the female and the male. Maybe they have not figured it out yet!
Looks like I may be selling my oldest fish ~100. The store wants all of them for a sale! We are going to split the proceeds 50-50. For now I'm not going to discuss details but I may later. He also said he is getting requests for even smaller clowns. He wanted to know how young would be safe to sell them. He said many customers with Nano's want very small clowns.
FB
Batch I - Hatched 11/23 still have 30 or so growing well. They are being fed New Life Spectrum Grow. They are a really good size for only being 2 1/2 months old.
Batch II - 100% loss after 15 days. This batch never looked good and never progressed through meta even after 11-15 days.
Batch III - 100% loss within 12-18 hours.
Batch IV - 100% loss within 12-18 hours.
Batch VI - Currently at about 24 hours for some 5 hours for others.
Occelaris pair 2: Not sure what is going on with this pair right now. The female always seems to have a swollen abdomen curious if she has a parasite or something. She has always eatan well and never showed any signs of distress. I bought her off someone shutting down a nano and he had had her for some time. He claimed they had laid eggs twice but did not provide any proof. I got the pair for $25.00 so I can't complain. I'm wondering if I should treat these two with something.
Occelaris Pair 3: batch II eggs have thinned out to almost 30 again. With an expected hatch date of the 9th I doubt I will have any left to play with.
GSM pair 1: No new eggs yet.
B&W pair 1: The female in this pair has become a HUGE B***H. She will attack even if the tips of my fingers touch the water. When I am standing in front of the tank she comes right to the front as if saying "I am going to stand my ground.....Just try and stick your hand in my tank".
Picasso pair 1: These two still don't venture too far away from each other. However they have been coming out to accept food more now which is a good thing. They are both almost the same size so I cannot tell which is the female and the male. Maybe they have not figured it out yet!
Looks like I may be selling my oldest fish ~100. The store wants all of them for a sale! We are going to split the proceeds 50-50. For now I'm not going to discuss details but I may later. He also said he is getting requests for even smaller clowns. He wanted to know how young would be safe to sell them. He said many customers with Nano's want very small clowns.
FB
dazed
New member
I know the feeling my reef or what is becoming an under water planted tank from **** is getting on my nerves as well. That's one of the reasons i have cut back on the feeding of the tank and maybe my female's eggs are suffering from it as well, still not sure. I have never had this bad of an outbreak of ha in any of my tanks before.
Good to hear that you are getting things back on track with the sg, hopefully the bta's will respond in a positive way.
rkelman
New member
" He wanted to know how young would be safe to sell them. He said many customers with Nano's want very small clowns."
I would say 1" should be bare minimum for Ocellaris FB. (nose to start of tail not tip). Do those people know they grow fast? lol.
I'm sorry to hear about your latest hatch. You'll get it though.
I would say 1" should be bare minimum for Ocellaris FB. (nose to start of tail not tip). Do those people know they grow fast? lol.
I'm sorry to hear about your latest hatch. You'll get it though.
FB
New member
I have ordered some new "Instant Algae Rotifer Diet HD 3600 â€"œ 1L bag" If this fixes the problem great....if not I can use both of the instant algae's I have.
After the last batch of O's and the GSM's I'm now thinking Nutrition. Both had silver bellies but once their yolk sacs ran out they died.
FB
After the last batch of O's and the GSM's I'm now thinking Nutrition. Both had silver bellies but once their yolk sacs ran out they died.
FB
For anyone who cares:
In regards to the semi-discussion a page back, regarding the moonlight, feed schedule, etc. I am certainly no expert, but I can offer what I did (differently) on my last batch that increased survival from a dismal 4-5% to over 90%.
- I used two bubblers, both on the same side of the tank. Just bubbles, no airstones, and got them going pretty good. This created a nice swirling current in the 2.5 gal flat-sided round fishbowl I use.
- I used a moonlight - actually a 1.5w child's nightlight at night. Every night. They still "sleep" but it definitely did something to improve their eating response. The light is located about 6 inches directly above the tank. No other light after 9:30pm.
- I started adding some otohime A at day 3. I added both Oto A and rots until day 6 or 7 and tapered the rots off after that. Strictly Oto A after that.
- I used AmmoLock in the initial water, and all make-up water.
- I cleaned all the piles of "poo" out of the bowl every night before bed (They all lie on the bottom, dont want them lying in it)
This batch had about 90% survival to week 5, when I killed them all by accidentally turning off the bubbler one night....
Jeff
In regards to the semi-discussion a page back, regarding the moonlight, feed schedule, etc. I am certainly no expert, but I can offer what I did (differently) on my last batch that increased survival from a dismal 4-5% to over 90%.
- I used two bubblers, both on the same side of the tank. Just bubbles, no airstones, and got them going pretty good. This created a nice swirling current in the 2.5 gal flat-sided round fishbowl I use.
- I used a moonlight - actually a 1.5w child's nightlight at night. Every night. They still "sleep" but it definitely did something to improve their eating response. The light is located about 6 inches directly above the tank. No other light after 9:30pm.
- I started adding some otohime A at day 3. I added both Oto A and rots until day 6 or 7 and tapered the rots off after that. Strictly Oto A after that.
- I used AmmoLock in the initial water, and all make-up water.
- I cleaned all the piles of "poo" out of the bowl every night before bed (They all lie on the bottom, dont want them lying in it)
This batch had about 90% survival to week 5, when I killed them all by accidentally turning off the bubbler one night....
Jeff
I'm glad to hear you are getting better survival rates. Good work.- Status
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