Auto Top Off Questions

[Bcollins111900]

I am looking to put an auto top off on my tank but little to nothing about them. I know it works off a float switch much like a sump pump only in reverse, the water level drops and something puts water back into the tank or sump in my application. Does it work off gravity like a solenoid switch opens and releases water into the sump? I have no idea so any help would be great not to mention suggestions on what is a good set up. I was looking at a JBJ ATO Automatic Top Off Controller and wasnt sure if I needed something this complex?

 

[jakano]

There are several ways to do this BC. Pretty much all of them use at least one float switch so you are on the right path there. Just to use my system as an example I have a large dosing pump hooked up to the float switch so that when the level drops enough to trigger the switch it turns on the dosing pump that running through the Kalkenstein that Geo showed us all how to make. A dosing pump is a much slower way to introduce the freshwater and I like it better that way. If my float valve were to ever stick open it will only pump a small amount of water VS a regular type of pump that will pump greater amounts and possibly flood your system. I have a 32 gallon trashcan that holds all of my RO water and that is what gets pumped into my sump. You can also do a gravity fed version or even a siphon system as well, but they all need a solenoid hooked up to a float switch to control so that when the float switch is triggered that will also turn the solenoid on and allow the water to pass to the sump. Shark Keeper is running a siphon system so hopefully he will chime in to explain how his works.

 

[Bcollins111900]

I think I got it. You Tube video just helped as well LOL. It doesnt seem like it is to complicated of a setup in all reality.

 

[MarineFishGuy]

How you do topoff depends a lot on how your sump is setup.
If under tank, you will need a pu8mp of some sort in most cases.
If a basement sump you have far more options.

I have a basement sump. I put a 5 gallon bucket on the top shelf just outside the sump room right next to my RODI water container.
I ran a line from the bottom of the bucket to a float valve in my Rubbermaid sump. The float valve is affixed to some scrap acrylic so I can easily adjust the height.
I do not does Kalk so I have never had a problem with the float valve sticking open.
I have an Aqualifter that pumps water into the 5 gallon bucket on a basic light timer (set for 6 hours a day). There is a float valve in the bucket where the aqualifter connects to avoid overfilling the bucket.

It is very simple, inexpensive, and effective. It relies primarily on gravity so it is Eco-friendly too.

 

[Bcollins111900]

Yeah I am probally going to do the 5 gallon bucket deal with a maxi jet or something like that in it. I would do it so a solenoid valve but the tank is on the way other side of the room from where the R/O unit is... Go figure...

 

[MarineFishGuy]

My RODI filter is across the room.
However my storage container is right next to my 5 gallon bucket topoff so an Aqualifter is enough to keep the bucket full.

I like using the aqualifter on the timer so it can't flood my sump in case the float valve ever got stuck open.

I check the bucket on occasion and if it is not staying full, I extend the timer setting by 30 minutes.

I would advise against plumbing the RODI directly to your topoff in most cases. Unless you have a double failsafe solenoid that you REALLY trust. $$$

 

[Bcollins111900]

Yeah I am going to do the 5 gallon bucket method and I will just fiil the bucket myself with R/O water. Just ordered this float switch http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/single-bracket-reefkeeper-float-switch-kit-digital-aquatics.html

 

[zeppelin]

Hey Brian

Whats been up? Haven't talked to ya in awhile. Gald you decided to get back into the hobby. :beer:

Here's another inexpensive topoff method
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23623&clickid=redirect

I have been using these for well over 5 years now and have yet to have one fail. I have it plumbed directly into my R/O unit. I have one plumbed into my mixing vat and one in my sump. I know you have already purchased the other, but thought I'd post up the link.

Post your new tank progress up over on the CORA site. Hope to see you at the January meeting.

 

[MarineFishGuy]

Aside from the risk of turning your reef into a freshwater system (it happened to a local on a 200g plus system), the other issue with plumbing directly to your RODI is TDS Creep.

The RODI pressure switches require a consistent pressure to stay closed.
As water evaporates the pressure is released in small amounts over an extended period of time.

This is sub-optimal for two reasons:
1. You waste a lot more water as the waste water lines runs for a minute or two each time the valve opens. Even if it only lets a little bit into the tank.

2. As the RODI unit cycles on and off, a little bit of TDS is allowed to pass through the membrane. This will either be handled by your DI resin (shortening the lifespan) or if depleted, pass through into your tank.

I remember Russ from BFS saying the best thing to do is to produce as much water at one time as possible to minimize the effects of TDS Creep.

This is why I use a timer to fill my 5g bucket. It ensures the RODI only runs for as long as it needs to keep my Storage container full.

If you are going to use the float switch, I would add a float valve similar to the one Larry linked on the end of the line (in the sump). This will act as a failsafe should something cause the float switch to stick in the On position. I have heard of those float switches getting stuck from coraline algae growth as well as small snails.

Happy Holidays
Ken

 

[Bcollins111900]

Nice part is the float switch is going to be in the sump where there is no light. Also I dont use small snails or hermits in my tanks. Hermits always seem to fight and the only snails I am using are turbos. Yeah I figured hooking it up to a 5 gallon bucket of R/O water wont be to bad even if the solenoid sticks open as it won't really be enough water to really have an effect on the tank. I do appreciate the help with this as I am now on the right track. I will make sure to post pictures and my progress in the CORA forum.

 

[jakano]

That's another plus of using a dosing type pump to push the ro water to your sump. If the float valve were to somehow stick open it will only pump small amounts of water during that time vs what even a maxi jet pump will do. So you have a rather long cushion of time to catch it before you flood your tank.