Auto Top off with high and low limits??

J

joedirt

New member
Anyone have a diy or parts and a schematic to do a Auto top off with an electric solenoid valve using 2 float switches? I want the level in my sump to drop about 3" before the valve opens to let the RO/DI water in and then shut off when it is full. I think it will be more efficient and my RO/DI system will last longer.


Any ideas?
 
schematic.jpg


Pretend the pump is the solenoid

You will need three float switches, a relay rated to the transformer you are going to use, and the solenoid. I would suggest two solenoids with water running straight through them but wired in paralell. This way if one fails open you wont flood.
 
Thanks, For sme reason I thought it was going to be complicated, I feel kinda stupid asking that now.

Here's another one, Does anybody know of someplace to get an inexpensive solenoid that is low voltage DC, maybe 12v? I found a few places that I can get a 120v AC version for $25-$30, but since all its going to do is open a solenoid valve I would like to keep it all low voltage for safety purposes. Not to mention it will make it simpler to build since it will only have the single power supply.
 
Here is my schematic for a system like you are talking about.

Autotopoff3a-1.jpg


The bottom float switch turns on RODI, middle turns off RODI and top is an emergency in case the middle one fails.

This will power either a RODI solenoid or pump from a extra tank.


Keith
 
Re: Auto Top off with high and low limits??

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6682773#post6682773 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by joedirt
Anyone have a diy or parts and a schematic to do a Auto top off with an electric solenoid valve using 2 float switches? I want the level in my sump to drop about 3" before the valve opens to let the RO/DI water in and then shut off when it is full. I think it will be more efficient and my RO/DI system will last longer.


Any ideas?
Click to expand...

i used 3 titanium electrode, 1 electrode holder and 1 automatic water level control relay for maxi / mini water level control to fill in fresh water due to evaporation. this solution has no moving parts like the float switches do, and i think it'll be more reliable....

total cost is around $25, easy connection, the relay comes with a simple schematic diagrame....
 
the reason behind one switch to turn on and another to turn off is so that the switches can be placed several inches apart. If you are using just one the top off pump or solenoid will turn on and off with about 1/2" of water level change.

I was looking to get 2" or 3" change in water level before turning of my solenoid.

Keith
 
scylam,

How long as your system been running. I would be afraid of a galvanic reaction due ot the saltwater and "electrodes". Also such a setup would wreak havoc on any monitoring electrodes such as PH, ORP, Salinty etc.

Can you provide more details please.

Another option is to use air pressure switches. They are relaible and can be mounted remotely.

Bean
 
Stile, you did not need a "dual coil" latch accomplish the task at hand... but I am sure you already knew that.

Bean
 
Well I tried with a single coil and could not get it to work right. With the two switches, one to turn on and one to turn off, how would you use a regular relay.

Do you have a schematic?

Keith
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6686775#post6686775 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
scylam,

How long as your system been running. I would be afraid of a galvanic reaction due ot the saltwater and "electrodes". Also such a setup would wreak havoc on any monitoring electrodes such as PH, ORP, Salinty etc.

Can you provide more details please.

Another option is to use air pressure switches. They are relaible and can be mounted remotely.

Bean
Click to expand...

i use 3 small titanium rod as electrode, it does rust. the system has been running since july 2005, never have problem, hope it'll never do...with th emeasuring devices, i do not encounter any problem so far
 
Becareful of using the schematic near the top. I beleive it will not work as desired. The bottom switch will always be under water, as will the middle switch and the safety switch will do all the work. Turning the system on when it goes down and off when it goes up.

Keith
 
good call keith on the top schematic, now you know why i was confused by the three float switches, actually depending where the sump level was when starting, the top two switches may never get wet.

im confused by bean on the latch also. maybe he meant two armatures. but i like your design it allows for a led indicate.
 
Look at the top schematic again... It is correct and will work as stated by BruiseAndy.

Here is a latching circuit if you can follow it. There are some shortcomings to my design that have since been corrected but not reflected in the schematic. I use a similar circuit on my top-off system.

attachment.php


There is a much more elegant way to use the LEDs to indicate the state of the circuit as well. These also are not part of this older schematic.
 
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