Auto Top off with high and low limits??

I don't have a need for one now, the original design (the schematic i uploaded) woud either need a timer or latch for the low level conditon. That schematic was conjured up long before i had my sump and top-off plans nailed down.

Most of my efforts are in the design and fabrication of my relay opto-isolated relay driver boards at the moment. The current "project" is being built around a 96 BIT nudaq PCI board, and as I mentioned I may be miving it over to a Uc such as the Atmega 128. It will never get done though... I never finish projects like this.

Bean
Bean
 
24VAC parts are cheap a widely available. mcmaster carr also has 24VAC solenoids for $17. Would only need one transformer to power it all and wouldn't have to worry about running line voltage more than necessary.
 
thats alot of duct.

yes bean your diagram for instance would not work in my sump.

my sump is small and when the pump restarts after a power failure (for instance). the water level drops momentarially below where i could mount a float switch (unless i find a switch that can be mounted lower). there for if i had a float switch mounted a its lowest usable height every time my pump restarted it would shut itself off.

this renders my gfi design http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=756584
and your diagram unusable for me and others like me. the plus with your design is that a time delay relay could be added.
 
I made a controller dealing with high/low floats etc. I have put the schematics on my website. The pages aren't quite finihsed yet, but should give everybody the idea. If you look under DIY projects.

Sutton Reef

Dave
 
Nice work Dave. What brand of solenoids did you end up going with?

I scrapped my "all in one" water system controller due to my ever changing mind.... I am glad to see somebody is less fickle than me. It's funny you posted that, as I just talked to a guy today about using discrete gates instead of Uc for simple 3 container level control project.

Again, nice job.

Bean
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6686939#post6686939 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Stile2
Well I tried with a single coil and could not get it to work right. With the two switches, one to turn on and one to turn off, how would you use a regular relay.

Do you have a schematic?

Keith
Click to expand...

Use one of the relay contacts as memory to keep it energized until the top float opens. See this schematic. Very simple and safe. Use a float valve at the ouput of the top off so if the top electric float switch fails the water is shut off mechanically.
Install the floats so they both are closed (conected) when in the hanging (low water level) position.
It works this way. When the water level is full so the top and bottom floats are open and there is not power in the relay so the solenoid or powerhead is off.
As the water level descend the top float closes but the bottom is still open so no power to the relay. When the water level is low enough to close also the bottom float the relay gets energized and closes the contact that turns the solenoid ON but also closes another contact that will keep the relay ON after the water level starts to rise and the bottom float disconects.
The relay will continue ON until the water level reaches the top float and disconects the power to both the relay and the memory contact thus turning off the solenoid.
18470Float_Circuit.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6715556#post6715556 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
Nice work Dave. What brand of solenoids did you end up going with?

I scrapped my "all in one" water system controller due to my ever changing mind.... I am glad to see somebody is less fickle than me. It's funny you posted that, as I just talked to a guy today about using discrete gates instead of Uc for simple 3 container level control project.

Again, nice job.

Bean
Click to expand...

Thanks....

Solenoid valves are RS Components part # 342-042 cost in UK Ã"šÃ‚£9.89.

I have only benched tested the controller as I am just in the process of setting up my tank. I am just about to go outside to finish building my stand.

Dave
 
pretty sweet dave, deffinately above my tallent level. one thing, i noticed a heater in the ro/di storage. was that to be for the salt mix container?

i need to sit down with my neighbor some day. he is a software engineer who works in factory automation. currently he is in indonesia setting up a new steel mill. id love to have all this stuff controlled by a pc connected to some sensors and relays. just set the parameters and go.
 
doug... Using is PC is rather easy. Not as reliable as an embedded controller, Uc, or PLC,... but doable.

You may want to check into some of the threads here on RC. Phidgets.com make some neat USB I/O devices that run under windows (you will need VB or C++ skills).

I am using industrial controller boards (Nudaq) for my design, as I got them cheap off eBay.

However, my TOP-OFF will only be monitored from the PC, discrete logic will control it. I don't trust Bill Gates with my tank level... TO MANY BSOD.
Bean
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6716142#post6716142 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by douggiestyle
pretty sweet dave, deffinately above my tallent level. one thing, i noticed a heater in the ro/di storage. was that to be for the salt mix container?

i need to sit down with my neighbor some day. he is a software engineer who works in factory automation. currently he is in indonesia setting up a new steel mill. id love to have all this stuff controlled by a pc connected to some sensors and relays. just set the parameters and go.
Click to expand...

I was intending to put heaters in both the saltwater and freshwater(RO) reservoirs. The reason for this is that both reservoirs will be stored in "lean to" shed outside the house. The shed will be insulated. But where I live, we do experience sub-zero temperatures in the winter. I will be using central heating cylinder jackets around the reservoirs to try to keep the heat in. It is also my intention to keep the chiller and MH ballasts in the shed as well. These will be giving off heat keeping the shed warm.

My major concern is in the summer, where I feel that the shed might get too hot (with all the installation, output from the chiller, ballasts). I will monitor this and if needs be, I will install a temperature controlled extraction fan(s).

Dave
 
However, my TOP-OFF will only be monitored from the PC, discrete logic will control it. I don't trust Bill Gates with my tank level... TO MANY BSOD.
Bean
Click to expand...

:rollface: :D :rollface: :D :rollface: :rollface: :rollface:

Totally agree, totally agree.

We have both unix and windows servers in work. The unix servers go years without needing to reboot. The windows servers barely go a month without needing a reboot for some reason.

Dave
 
Yeah... I will say though, that I have a Domain controller that has been 7 months wihtout a reboot. No memory leaks, no hosed permsions... it's still up and chugging along. My average time between server 2003 reboots is 4 months, and usually a long power outage takes care of it for me.

I still don't like the idea of Willy minding my water levels. Reporting PH, turning lights on and off and showing pretty graphs is just fine though.
 
The reason for this is that both reservoirs will be stored in "lean to" shed outside the house. The shed will be insulated. But where I live, we do experience sub-zero temperatures in the winter. I will be using central heating cylinder jackets around the reservoirs to try to keep the heat in.

Dave [/B]
Click to expand...


you may have more problems than just the resevoirs. im sure you should also be concerned with all lines going to and from. though easily ammended.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6718785#post6718785 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal

I still don't like the idea of Willy minding my water levels. Reporting PH, turning lights on and off and showing pretty graphs is just fine though.
Click to expand...

what would be cool is to have the plc connected to your network where all adjustments could be made as well as monitoring. simply uplink commands as necessary.
 
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