<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6515602#post6515602 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by coralguy1
Raise the exit end of your top off line so that your top off water falls into your sump. If it is not submerged, the siphon will break.
This is not correct. If the pump flow is enough to fill the line, then a siphon will occur even if the discharge end is out of the water.
A work around has already been advised. That is to put a tee on the output line of the top-off pump ABOVE the maximum water level of the resevoir. Part of the water will go to the sump, part of it will exit out the tee. When the pump turns off, the tee will act as a siphon break.
The second option would be to end your top off hose at a height above the sump that is higher than the maximum water level of the resevoir. The top-off hose would feed into a larger diamter pipe that runs into the sump and is open at the top end. Look into your toilet fill hose and overflow for an idea of how this would look. In other words, the water will free fall from the end of the top-off hose into the pipe that guides it into the sump.
The third option would be the incorporation of a kent or similar float valve onto the end of the fill hose. In conjunction with your float switch, this will add a bit of safety. I would however be cautious of the fact that if the float valve fails your sump could overflow with fresh water.
My setup uses a float valve and electric float switches. My TOP-off container holds 5 gallons and can therefore not cause my sump to overflow or salinity to drop in the event of failure. The 5 gallon bucket is only allowed to refill once every 24 hours (software controlled but could as easily be a timer). My tank evaps 2 GPD in the summer and 3.5 in the winter. So even if I was out of town for a few days, the net gain in the event of a fully failed open float valve, would be about 6 gallons, after evap.
I know this sounds complicated, and others may well have better or simpler ideas... I am just trying to get you thinking.
Bean