Auto water changes

[ewatson]

I have come to realize on my 300 gal system that I just don't do enough water changes. I am just too lazy! Weeks will sometimes turn into monthes before I realize how long it has been since I have done a water change.

So....I was thinking that if I made it easier I would be more likely to do it. Also....I was thinking that I should increase the size of my water change since I don't do it as often as I should.

So...the questions. What do people here think is a maximum safe percentage of system volume that I should set up my water changes for? Currently my waterchanges are around 8 to 9% of water volume. Can I increase that to something more....say 20 to 30%?

Can anyone susggest some plans for a relatively foolproof automatic waterchange system. I am invisioning having 2 containers....one for the new water and one for the old water. I would like to just be able to turn and value and come back in a few hours.....any ideas?

 

[VultureCP]

Well there really seems to be two ways people are automating water changes. The first is a fully automated method, fill tank, mix salt, remove water from main, then refill with new water. The issue here is the salt mixture, it adds a layer of complexity that might not be worth it to you.

I would recommend keeping a container you mix your RO/DI and Salt then mix for a few days, do this process manually with valves. Then drain the desired amount from your tank and replenish with the mixing tank. This can be done fairly easy with float switches and some automation software.

Do you have a sump that is separate from your refugium? If so you could drain the amount out of there and replenish without any ill affects to your main or refugium.

Hope this helps!

-Chuck

 

[ewatson]

What I would like to do is have two 50-60 gallon containers. I would attach one to my water maker with a float switch and put the necessary amount of salt mix.....after a few hours put in a pump and let it mix for a couple of days.

So the question is this....is there an easy way to pump out the new water from one contrainer and fill the second container with old water that does not take any supervision and will not lead to me having water on the floor.

Oh....and my sump is not big enough to just pump all 50 gal into it without taking water out of the system at the same time.

 

[mflamb]

My 390 display/125 sump is plumbed for water changes. Top barrel is RO/DI. Bottom barrel is for mixing salt. Both are plumbed to the sump. Sump is pumped out to sewer system with sump return pump.

 

[madmike]

could you explain a little more about how your water changes work? Is there a seperate pump in the salwater bin that mixes the water for you and then you just open up the BV5 and let it go to the sump?
thanks
Mike

 

[anthworks]

Nice setup!

 

[mflamb]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10122682#post10122682 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by madmike
could you explain a little more about how your water changes work? Is there a seperate pump in the salwater bin that mixes the water for you and then you just open up the BV5 and let it go to the sump?
thanks
Mike

That is exactly right. Open one valve and close another to divert the sump return to the outside drain and pump it out. Reset those valves. Set the valves in the garage for salt water and turn on the pump. Open the valve in the sump and fill it up. Water change done. Go back to the garage and dump the fresh water from the top to the bottom barrel. Add salt. Turn on mixing pump. Turn on RO/DI to fill up top barrel. Ready for next water change. No lifting, hauling, getting wet.

 

[mattsilvester]

At work, so no time to read through all the replies. I have set my tank up as follows:

In cabinet beneath I have a 50 gal tank, with an RO auto top up on it. So, to make up salt mix, the RO fills up the tank and when full shuts down. I know the exact amount of salt required, heater is set to correct temperature etc.

Water change day comes around. Switch off circ. Pumps and return from sump etc and let water levels settle for 10 mins. The overflow from tank to sump has a by pass to waste with ball valves. I open one valve and close the other, so that no water flows to sump and all water flows to waste. I turn on the pump in the 50 gal tank, pump up about 45 gals (or less is I prefer) â€"œ as the display tank fills, it overflows and goes to waste. I then switch off pump, and again allow to settle, then open / close the valves to direct water to sump again and shut off drain â€"œ that’s it.

People argue that some of the new water is going straight down the drain. In theory it could be significant but in reality is is a very small percentage, and for the simplicity it is a small loss that I am happy to live with.

As far as max water change - personally I would not change more than 20% a week - providing its the right temperature, s.g. etc. but if your tank needs 20% a week then you are probably either overstocked or doing something quite wrong...... 10% weekly would be pretty subtantial and should have very positive effects on the system......

I'm guilty at present of not meeting my own expectations, but I am aiming for a minimum of 25% a month on my 240 gal tank - haven't started properly yet though the tank is only a couple of months old - but prevention is better than cure.

HTH

Matt

 

[madmike]

thanks mflamb! Why did you put the recirculating loop on the ro/di bin also?

 

[mille239]

mflamb, what (pump) do you use to mix the salt water in the lower container? TIA.

 

[mflamb]

The external pump moves the water, fresh or salt, depending on the valve settings, to the sump. In the salt mixing barrel is a Maxi Jet 1200.

 

[yaktop]

although I havent done it yet this seems to make the most sense. on a continuos (or timer) basis take water out and put new SW in.

http://www.championlighting.com/product.php?productid=17519&cat=386&page=1

with a float switch you can shut the system down if you run out of newly mixed saltwater.

thoughts ?

 

[reefkeeper2]

I faced the same issues when I was planning my system. I was tired of water changes and in particular mixing the salt and testing to ensure the new water matched the correct parameters of temp and salinity. I finally broke down and bought a dialyseas. Now I just pour the dry salt into a bucket and the machine does the rest. It was expensive, but worth every penny.

 

[scottfarcuz]

any dual channel medical dosing pump should do auto water changes nicely

 

[mattsilvester]

reefkeeper2

I'm intrigued - where could I read up on this dialyseas?

Matt

 

[reefkeeper2]

At seavisions.

 

[reefkeeper2]

here's a link