Back again, any more ideas, or should I just tap out?

1. 1.025 Refractometer. I use the calibration fluid.
2. Kent dkh bufffer, and Kent calcium as well. Haven't had to add much calcium lately, and buffer about once a week in the nano. 1/4 tsp
3. TDS is 0 on the 'out' side of the gage. It's a BRS 4 stage
4. Salifert. All a little under a year old, and the alk one is brand new
5. Newlife spectrum thera A, and reef chili
6. The LED on the 90 have a control. But the Ocean revive, and the T5s just come on
7. All ATI. Don't remember the combo, maybe 3 Blue +, 2 coral +, and a purple +
8. 79-81degress. Nano measured in the tank with a regular thermometer, the 90gal in the sump with a digital, and regular thermometer
9. Kinda, have a section in my sump with some live rock
10. One is in the living room beside a tv, and the other in a computer/toy room. Neither are beside windows
 
AND Here's your problem or a big part of it. Kent dkh buffer, very bad to use a PH buffer and because you're chasing PH with it your Alk will be off so you will have other issues with your water parameters than can affect your coral growth, or lack thereof.
 
Actually I've seen it recommended to not worry much about PH, and focus on alk. So that's what I've been using it for. And again, I surely don't know it all, and have been going by advice I've mainly been given here. It was recommended before (no names) to use those 2 to raise calcium and alk. I've also used baked baking soda before that. With still no success. PLEASE don't think I'm coming across as arrogant, I'm anything but, I'm just stating all the things I have tried and/or been recommended, and nothing has worked. I'm not far from quitting, but I'm no quitter!!!! Just seems nothing I do helps anything(:. Because after YEARS of trying, and lots of money, I'm NO farther ahead
 
How often do you add the dkh buffer to the main tank? What is your pH and how do you measure it?

And, how do you ATO?


Sounds like your parameters are all over the place.
 
I haven't had to add it to the 90gal much. Honestly, I haven't checked PH for a long while. That I have an API test for. I'll check it tonight in both tanks. I have and autoaqua ATO
 
Actually I've seen it recommended to not worry much about PH, and focus on alk.


People get real heated about this topic and I don't understand!! Sure if you're tank is going well, no problems, then I agree, don't worry about pH. I can look at my tank, and tell you yep, my pH is ok.

BUT if there's a problem, as there is here, all details are important, including pH. Your pH could be 7.5 and the Alk 8.5dkH and you wouldn't know. Nothing will calcify at 7.5, but you don't know if you don't test.
 
airline out a window and into the skimmer air intake. And the other I just put the air pump in the window seal, and shut the window, then ran an airline to my sump with a wooden airstone
 
I TOTALLY agree with you jml, I can't fix a problem if I don't know what's wrong!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
also your temp, 79-81 is too high, I keep mine at 77-78. 78 MAX. I find my Euphyllia are really sensitive to anything greater than 78, to the point of not opening up
 
airline out a window and into the skimmer air intake. And the other I just put the air pump in the window seal, and shut the window, then ran an airline to my sump with a wooden airstone


And how long did you leave it like this? Did you monitor pH throughout this time? That's why I like the pH meter, stick it in, let it settle out, and reading boom. The test kits are so subjective.

Also one of the reasons I got my Apex.
 
And again, sorry for the many posts. I'm not trying to inflate my post count, I promise. Just thoughts coming to mind.

When reducing the photo period, I found it was more effective to leave the lights on for 10 hours, but turn them down a bunch. So on my original Chinese LED's, I had set to 60% white 60% blue. Instead of reducing the on time from 10 to 6 hours, I turned them down to 30% and let them go 10 hours. Photo-inhibition is a real problem.

And get rid of that dkh buffer crap. Make up a batch of Randy's 2 part alk using the baked baking soda one.

Now that we've discussed a couple ideas, should put together a punch list and look at addressing these one at time.

One of my biggest problems early on was trying a bunch of fixes, fixing the problem, but then had no idea what the heck I did to fix it.
 
I probably had the airline in the sump for 2 months or so. The skimmer has always had and outside airline. No, I did not monitor the PH at all. I guess I was just under the assumption to watch the alk, and the PH would follow. So how would I raise PH without alk, if this is an issue?
 
Well, at least I have a couple ideas to try. I'm almost to the point of no faith anymore, and nothing will work. Guess it's just how it's gone so far. Keep the advice coming, as I will try almost anything!!! Any chance my live rocks are bad? That was my last option before selling it all, was to replace the rocks and see if that helps.
 
don't apologize jml!!!! Keep posting, I'm listening!!!!

Anyone else?

I know there's a bunch of experts on here!!!!
 
No one monitors PH, and there is a reason.

The reason your PH cant go to low is because of the aragonite sand we use. If the PH drops to low, you start to dissolve the aragonite which in turn will bring the PH back up. Anywhere between 7.5 and 8.3 is fine, and the higher end being better for coral growth.

If your alk is inline(between 8 and 11DKH, most people keep it around 9) your PH will follow, just as you thought. I have not only read this more times then I can count, I have also seen it firsthand in my own reefing. Early on I chased PH numbers, stopped and monitored ALK more closely. As a result my PH stays pretty constant at 8.2.
 
Back
Top