Bad red and green algae

[Starfiretank]

Any idea what is causing this stuff?

alk-low 2.5meql (maybe thats the problem)
cal-450
salinity-1.023
ph-8.2
nitrates-0ppm

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[Starfiretank]

Here is a better pic

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[raynist]

How long has the tank been setup?

Have you tested nitrates and phosphate?

 

[Starfiretank]

The tank has only been up about 5 mos. I have tested nitrates and they are reading 0ppm i dont test phosphates at all. I cant figure in out i use r.o. water with a test of 3 on tds.

 

[TomNeely]

My RO water is 0 after the DI. What kind of flow do you have. When I returned my vortech and decreased my flow in the tank I had this everywhere. When I got the Vortech back it was all gone in 3 days.

 

[Starfiretank]

I use a non-controlled koralia 3 rated at 850 gph and the tank is a custom made starfire 34 gal. I do however just use a canister filter with seagel in it. Rated at 250gph

 

[raynist]

Do you use DI resin in your RO unit? You should be getting 0 tds if you do.

If algae is growing you probably have phosphates.

You can try using some phosphate removing material.

 

[Starfiretank]

The unit is strictly ro never bought the di add on. I will have to invest in a phosphate test kit i believe then.

 

[cloakerpoked]

By your alk measurement, you're looking for 3 meq/L or more. It's different than the dKh scale. If you had 7 or more, you'd be in serious pH trouble. The reason I mention this is that it's really not that low. Probably a phosphate issue since nitrates are 0.

 

[Misled]

And even if you have a test kit, you still may get a zero reading. The phosphate becomes bound within the algae and doesn't stay in the water column. I agree with Ray on the phosphate remover.

 

[superstein61]

If its because your TDS is not zero and you want to get there, you may want to consider adding a DI add on unit to your RO system - like this one from Bulkfreefsupply:

DI add-on canister

BTW - they also have decent pricing on Bulk GFO (phosphate remover)

 

[raynist]

Are you running a skimmer?

 

[superstein61]

Ray has a good question about are you running a skimmer

Also, what type of lights are on there, how old are the bulbs, and how long is your lighting cycle? On my old 37g I would notice that the red cyano would start to take hold as the bulbs aged past a certain point and the wavelength changed.

 

[Starfiretank]

I am using a viper hang on 150 watt mh 14k bulb about 9 mos old is that too old? The lighting cycle is 10 hrs on then the moonlights come on. Now i dont use a skimmer i just do a 15 gal water change once a week. The tank is a 34 gal starfire cube.

 

[raynist]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14181011#post14181011 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Starfiretank
I am using a viper hang on 150 watt mh 14k bulb about 9 mos old is that too old? The lighting cycle is 10 hrs on then the moonlights come on. Now i dont use a skimmer i just do a 15 gal water change once a week. The tank is a 34 gal starfire cube.

You could probably cut back on your lighting schedule. I keep my lights on for less than 6 hours and everything grows great.

 

[superstein61]

I agree with ray - and besides cutting back on the lighting, if you are doing 50% water changes weekly without 0 TDS water, you may be re-introducing phosphate with the water change

 

[Starfiretank]

Ok guys thank you i am going to try a few things like testing my ro water for phosphates, and cut back the lights. Maybe try the once a day feeding if none of that works.

 

[cloakerpoked]

I'd do all of it, including feeding once a day. I don't think that any of it will negatively impact your livestock.

 

[cloakerpoked]

As for 9 months...that's getting old for a MH bulb, but it isn't ancient. It can't be the cause of this problem by itself. Even the light cycle by itself wouldn't cause this problem. You'd get algea, but more of the normal green algea.