basement sumps?
- Thread starter MSU Fan
- Start date
MSU Fan
Active member
Ok, so fun news - we had found a guy locally that was selling a mak4. He said he would sell it to us, and then sold it to someone else - jerk. Anyway, now we don't a pump again - and we thought we'd put out the feeler. Anyone have a mak4 (equivalent) or slightly larger pump that they are looking to get rid of? We're more than willing to negotiate. Thanks!
I have a Iwaukee rlt70xt? (pressure pump...) Paid like.... 380 for it... it's got less that 100 hours on it, and the harshest abuse it's seen was the dust from the shelf in my basement...
and I may have a mag24 that is also in the same boat, the 300 could not handle the waterflow, so I had to take it out till I could machine the overflow slots larger, then the guy who bought it did not want the pump. Also run less than 100 hours...
I was thinking of increasing the waterflow in the wall of 40's so, if your interested, don't dawdle.
J
and I may have a mag24 that is also in the same boat, the 300 could not handle the waterflow, so I had to take it out till I could machine the overflow slots larger, then the guy who bought it did not want the pump. Also run less than 100 hours...
I was thinking of increasing the waterflow in the wall of 40's so, if your interested, don't dawdle.
J
MSU Fan
Active member
Sorry J, I didn't see your post. Sorry, even if it is still available, I already picked up a pump.
So - my update: Holly and I spent a good majority of the weekend in our basement cleaning it up for the sump. This required much work on our current holiday decoration setup. But we got the part of the basement that we needed to to be clean, and we set the stock tank and sump in place. The stock tank is a 100g from Fleet farm, and the sump is a CPR CS3000. I have the sump sitting on a series of 2x4s on Cinder Blocks. I am going to plumb in a durso standpipe to the bulkheads to maintain a water level, and use gutter guard to protect the durso from getting Chaeto in it.
We also bought some garbage cans and a perfectly sized 21g rubbermaid for top off.
I am going to make the cpr a fuge, and just house chaeto in it. Then I will be putting my LR and DSB in the stock tank, along with my skimmer (Octopus NW150).
I ended getting a good deal on a used Mak5, so I have that ready to go. I still have to buy a majority of the plumbing parts and tubing to actually plumb it.
I can't wait to get this system going - I'm so excited
So - my update: Holly and I spent a good majority of the weekend in our basement cleaning it up for the sump. This required much work on our current holiday decoration setup. But we got the part of the basement that we needed to to be clean, and we set the stock tank and sump in place. The stock tank is a 100g from Fleet farm, and the sump is a CPR CS3000. I have the sump sitting on a series of 2x4s on Cinder Blocks. I am going to plumb in a durso standpipe to the bulkheads to maintain a water level, and use gutter guard to protect the durso from getting Chaeto in it.
We also bought some garbage cans and a perfectly sized 21g rubbermaid for top off.
I am going to make the cpr a fuge, and just house chaeto in it. Then I will be putting my LR and DSB in the stock tank, along with my skimmer (Octopus NW150).
I ended getting a good deal on a used Mak5, so I have that ready to go. I still have to buy a majority of the plumbing parts and tubing to actually plumb it.
I can't wait to get this system going - I'm so excited
customcolor
New member
post some pics of the progress when u start doing it. i think we all wanna see
Craig,
I am preparing a similar project, and was intrigued in your idea to run the plumbing through the air return. If this would work, it could save us from ripping out and replacing a bunch of drywall!
My biggest concern is the drain. If you use some sort of flexible pipe for the drain, I would expect the drain pipe to fluctuate in height as it traverses the horizontal run. My question is, will the drain work? If you ran a siphon it would of course work if the the exit was lower than the entrance. Without a siphon, dont you have to maintain a downward slope in the drain line? How do you exoect to do this in your air return?
jeff
I am preparing a similar project, and was intrigued in your idea to run the plumbing through the air return. If this would work, it could save us from ripping out and replacing a bunch of drywall!
My biggest concern is the drain. If you use some sort of flexible pipe for the drain, I would expect the drain pipe to fluctuate in height as it traverses the horizontal run. My question is, will the drain work? If you ran a siphon it would of course work if the the exit was lower than the entrance. Without a siphon, dont you have to maintain a downward slope in the drain line? How do you exoect to do this in your air return?
jeff
MSU Fan
Active member
Fred, anytime you want to jump in on this (since you inspired me), you are more than welcome.
My thought is this - My overflow will cause the water to fall mostly vertically for 5 feet, where the hose will then lay on the bottom of the cold air return duct work. There would be little loss to the speed of the water in the hose at this point. If at any point the hose raises slightly, the speed/force of the water will be able to overcome so long as the hose doesn't continually rise.
I plan to use hangers to hold the hose level and keep the water moving once the hose exits the return duct (I may even put a tiny drop in the hose height just to help this along.
My thought is this - My overflow will cause the water to fall mostly vertically for 5 feet, where the hose will then lay on the bottom of the cold air return duct work. There would be little loss to the speed of the water in the hose at this point. If at any point the hose raises slightly, the speed/force of the water will be able to overcome so long as the hose doesn't continually rise.
I plan to use hangers to hold the hose level and keep the water moving once the hose exits the return duct (I may even put a tiny drop in the hose height just to help this along.
customcolor
New member
as long as your tank is higher than the sump (which it will be) you whould have no problems with the water stoping to flow.
I'm no expert, but I don't think this is right - unless you have a full siphon. Without a siphon, if the pipe rises, it will require the velocity generated in the initial vertical drop to climb the pipe. Perhaps it wouldn't stop flowing, but it might not provide adequate flow...
Are you guys aware of anyone that has run their plumbing inisde their air ducts?
customcolor
New member
his sump will be in the basement so he will have plenty of siphon from the initial vertical drop and it is a reef ready tank
Here is a good thread on the issue:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1030643
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1030643
JohnstonAtoll
New member
Anyone know of a link that will show me a big rubbermaid tank being used as a sump and will show me how to baffle or channel the water correctly through it? I have two cannister filters right now and want to put one of these in. I'm dead set on doing this, but I am having a hard time understanding what I need to do "IN" the sump. Also, I will be transfering everything out of my 125 gal. display to a 50 gal and 40 gal breeder so I can drill the display. Jason, I know you are good at drilling tanks. Would you be willing to drill mine for some frags? I need to order a return pump, can a return pump be too big? I dont know what the distance will be exactly yet because I am out of town but I think it will be about 10' below the tank and about 10' to the side of it. Probably about 15'-20' of return line from the basement going to tank at a 45 degree angle. I would like to order a pump now so I have everything ready to make this happen in a day. I have a skimmer on order, just need a pump, everything else I assume I can buy at Fleet Farm. Any pump brands I should not consider or consider? Thanks
siropa
New member
you talking about those nice big rubbermaid stock tanks from fleet farm and such? every thread i've seen on them makes it sound difficult to bond to them. plus there is hardly any parallel walls in them. I had a link to one decent thread, but can't find it now. i'm about to do the same thing to one of those tanks any day now.
JohnstonAtoll
New member
Yes, I haven't decided on what size to get. couple of 40 gal. or go with 100 gal. I've pretty much figured out I want to buy either a Sequence pump or a Panworld. I can guess what my head loss will be roughly so I figure I will order a pump that I know will be more than enough but I still don't know if it is possible to have too big of a pump. That be the case, I guess I will have to narrow down the head loss accurately. I'd like to know if it is ok to have more pump than needed so I can order it now and have it be at my home when I get there next week.
Siropa, nice inwall build, looks pretty good so far.
Siropa, nice inwall build, looks pretty good so far.
Yes - the pump can be too big. It can potentially flow so much faster than your drain that it could run itself near dry. Also, you have to consider how much flow your outlet port(s) can handle. In my case, I am using a seaswirl, so too much flow is a problem.
I am looking at about 16' of vertical head, 40' horizontal and some misc fittings. I chose a Reeflo Sequence Wahoo. The Panworld/Blueline 70HD was my second choice. The head loss calc on the front page is a great tool and will remind you about the importance of the diameter of your return pipe.
I am also using a Rubbermaid sump. I purchased a 100 gal stock tank. I think only the 100 gal and up are drilled and have a bulkhead. You can of course drill the smaller ones though.
On my way to Lowes for all of the plumming stuff!
jeff
I am looking at about 16' of vertical head, 40' horizontal and some misc fittings. I chose a Reeflo Sequence Wahoo. The Panworld/Blueline 70HD was my second choice. The head loss calc on the front page is a great tool and will remind you about the importance of the diameter of your return pipe.
I am also using a Rubbermaid sump. I purchased a 100 gal stock tank. I think only the 100 gal and up are drilled and have a bulkhead. You can of course drill the smaller ones though.
On my way to Lowes for all of the plumming stuff!
jeff
MSU Fan
Active member
So Holly says, didn't you post our basement sump pics last night? I say yes...guess they didn't take.
So here we go again:
As I said before, we are going to run the tubing through the cold air return duct. We are going to use 1.5" Spa Flex for the overflow and 1" for the return tube.
Here's a pic of the duct...not that special.
Here's our overall setup for the sump area. The top right acrylic tank will be the fuge, where we will have chaeto. Next to that is the top-off container. The sump itself is 100g and will have a DSB and LR in it, as well as the majority of the equipment such as skimmer, etc.
Fuge
Top-Off (holds 13g of water)
Sump
So here we go again:
As I said before, we are going to run the tubing through the cold air return duct. We are going to use 1.5" Spa Flex for the overflow and 1" for the return tube.
Here's a pic of the duct...not that special.
Here's our overall setup for the sump area. The top right acrylic tank will be the fuge, where we will have chaeto. Next to that is the top-off container. The sump itself is 100g and will have a DSB and LR in it, as well as the majority of the equipment such as skimmer, etc.
Fuge
Top-Off (holds 13g of water)
Sump
triggerjay
New member
My new basement setup:
The last pic is a 55g,. I am using it to hold my LR right now, but it will be my refugium, and IS drilled. The end caps of most 55g's are not tempered... but the rest is..
And it will be feeding this:
Triggerjay
The last pic is a 55g,. I am using it to hold my LR right now, but it will be my refugium, and IS drilled. The end caps of most 55g's are not tempered... but the rest is..
And it will be feeding this:
Triggerjay
