Basic Acrylic Tools

T

thejuggernaut

Member
I have been wanting to get into some basic DIY acrylic stuff. I understand that the tolerances and preparation is paramount in getting a good, strong joint. It seems most people use a router set but I rarely see photos or description of their router table setups. I don't want to spend thousands of dollars on router setup for doing a few DIY projects but a decent middle of the road table would be nice. Any suggestions from our resident acrylic gurus on equipment setups and/or your workflow on getting true and straight edges.

Regards,
Taylor
 
Using a router you eliminate the need to sand for the most part before you join the pieces.

If you want to use a table saw go to lowes in the table saw blade section look for the classic cuts blades they are all silver and there is either a 80 or 160 tooth laminate/trim finish blade that is also rated for plastics. Its around $10. I have used this and for your own projects your not worried about some chips here and there will work for you.

For a good blade that will not chip the acrylic while it cuts your looking at about $60 for a tct thin kerf blade made by freud on the diablo line.

With either or go slow and steady. Also make sure you get cell cast acrylic not lexan or the cheap stuff from lowes as this will just melt while trying to cut it.
 
Getting clean edges without the need to do allot of additional prep is the result I'm after. So I should cut them a little oversized with a table saw then plane them down about a 1/16" with a router? I was looking at this router table based on reviews I read on a few woodworking forums.

http://www.rockler.com/rockler-high...table-fence-plate-stand-router-table-packages

Is this a decent table to get me the desired results?

Regards,
Taylor

PS...I live close to Houston, so I was able to find a good plastics wholesaler that was willing to sale to me. Some of these online prices (US Plastics) were pretty high.
 
IMO you don't need a router table (just yet anyways).. It helps but you can usually get a good enough cut/joint with just a table saw.. I just use a regular 60 tooth carbide blade in my table saw.. Try some stuff with just the table saw first.. then any $200 router table/router combo from home depot if you think you need it.

and check out estreetplastics in rockwall tx.. very good online pricing.
 
Trade secret, after cutting the acrylic pieces use sand paper to remove the burrs and smooth out the cut edge, then with a blowtorch (blue flame butane) score along the edge with the flame. It ends up making the edge nice and clear and baby bottom smooth!
 
Good to know. It was my understanding you didn't want to flame polish the edges cause it could lead to them crazing. But maybe he was talking about the edges that were going to be bonded.

Regards,
Taylor
 
thejuggernaut said:
Good to know. It was my understanding you didn't want to flame polish the edges cause it could lead to them crazing. But maybe he was talking about the edges that were going to be bonded.

Regards,
Taylor
Click to expand...
Correct, only do it to the exposed edges. Just lightly sand the bonded edges.

I only flame polished where the water runs over/under my baffles.
 
Ive tried with a router and a tablesaw. Im far from a professional, but the router left a much cleaner finish cut, but the table saw was much easier/faster/cleaner to cut long straight lines.

Thats the pros and cons of each in my opinion. You can also design your box so that you cut all peices with the table saw a little long, weld it all together, then come back after the tank is complete and use the router to clean cut the edges flush. then flame polish. you just need a router bit with a bearing on the end. and tape off the surfaces that the bearing will ride on so it doesnt scratch the areas.
 
Thanks for the info. Ya'll have given me a good jumping off point. Now I just need to get me a work space and order a few thing. I have nice 3/4 inch sheet of ply that I think I'm going to make a nice assembly table out of first. Have absolutely no table space in my garage right now!

Regards,
Taylor
 
A table saw and an acrylic blade is a must. It will save u allot of time. Depending on how
Much u spend on the blade will determine if u need router the edge or not. Never flame polish and then glue is will craze and crack like mad too much stress on the material. I stay away from Flame polishing tho is too nerve racking I just use 1000 grit sand paper and plastx polish.

A list of useful acrylic tools

Table saw
Router with trim bit
Spring clamps
800 ,1000, 2000 grit sand paper
Plastx polish
Wide wooden square jig
Garbage bag tie
Needle applicator
Wood shims

I would just get some scrap and have at it, it takes a while to figure it out but it's fun.
 
I use acrylic for TONS of other stuff now too..
Wife wanted a "divider" for the kitchen drawer..
BOOM..acrylic it is :) so pretty..
 
What would be a specific 10" acrylic blade ya'll would suggest? There are tons of them and they all look the same, but they range from $15 to $300. What is a good middle of the road blade that will give me good results. Don't need one that will last 150 hours before needing to be re-sharpened.

Regards,
Taylor
 
thejuggernaut said:
What would be a specific 10" acrylic blade ya'll would suggest? There are tons of them and they all look the same, but they range from $15 to $300. What is a good middle of the road blade that will give me good results. Don't need one that will last 150 hours before needing to be re-sharpened.

Regards,
Taylor
Click to expand...
Freud Diablo 80 tooth atb 10" blade at home depot. $50
 
I prefer laser cutting acrylic. No need to polish and you get finer cuts. Expensive but very good

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
 
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