There are listed "3W" reds at 350mA..Which as we know is an impossibility..
As to the blues.. 10 in series, 3.2-3.6V.. 700mA..
The V(f)'s seem ok..Pretty sure they'd have popped if they were 350's...
Usually max v(F) is max current..
well, a true 3 watt red that ran max 350mA does exist but they are typically multiple dies in series, i.e. a two to four cores that runs 5-9volts........volts times amps equals watts.....though typically LEDs are lumped into categories by "watt" witch is seldom an accurate description for long term operating conditions, and equally seldom even true of many of thier maximum rated parameters.....i.e. a red that maxes at 3.5 volts at 750mA is still only 2.625 watts..........and I've never seen a red single die LED that ran at 4volts which is what would be needed to actually be a "3 watt LED"
......anyhow as far as your second statement about the blues, re-check that! Forward Voltage and Current handling are not at all related. Luxeon and Cree can run 1000mA at ~3volts or less with the good bins, and likewise tiny LEds like those used as indicator lights in consumer electronics might only handle 20mA at 3.6 or even up to 4 volts.....so I don't see your correlation between vF and Current.
My statement about the blues was that it is very, VERY, rare to get a whole string of "watt Plus Class" LEDs with voltage bins averaging much over 3.5 volts (could happen, but not all that likely, I have yet to get a single blue or white that ran over 3.8 even when pushed upwards of 1000mA on a "3 watt" chip).
So, given 10 in series and 36.1 volts input from PSU he should not see an output voltage over around 33.1 give or take a few percent, according to the LDD data sheets, which state they drop around 3 volts when working properly.
That is why I think he either needs to drop one blue per string or he might actually have 350mA max blues.
Better to test it with only one blue on a driver first. the vF can limit current if it exceeds what the psu can supply. LEDs can run all day long off a constant voltage supply if the supply can't output enough voltage to over come the combined vF and exceed thier maximum current rating. example, you can run a bridgelux vero 10 off a 24 volt source (battery, wall wart, whatever) and it will only pull an absolute max current of around 200mA never getting close to exceeding is limit or that of the PSU. This is why I think something is not quite right on the blue string.
Either too many LEDs and they are all very high vF (maybe.....hopefully) or they are actually only "1watt" in which case as with all LEDs the closer to max current the run the higher the vF of each LED. Especially true of the VERY old stock often available on ebay.........again I've never personally been able to get one to read 4 volts before it fried.......but I only have a few hundred that I have measured under extremes over the years, so not a very large test group in the grand scheme of things......
Either way a little more testing is in order for the OP to make sure things are going to keep running long term and not lead to a headache later after it's all up and running. Nothing worse than getting it all set up and buried in the guts of your setup only to have to dig it all back out after a month and figure out what failed........
Just my two cents from experience, observation, and countless hundreds of dollars in dead and toasted LEDs, Drivers, PSUs, etc, that I chalk up to my learning curve on the technology over the years.
