Bean Animal Overflow Question

[RDtrack]

Hi All

I'm looking at purchasing a new/used tank. The individual built his own overflow box and bean animal overflow.

I'm wondering based on the picture I've provided what everyone's thoughts are of his overflow and bean animal system. Is it good? Will it work? Any concerns?

Thanks

 

[RDtrack]

I apologize for the size of the pictures. I'm not sure if I can get them any larger. My main concern is that there are three stand pipes with no elbows.

From other bean animal overflows I've seen they have mostly had elbows. Is it a problem if this overflow doesn't have elbows.

Basically he built it so that the stand pipes are all at different heights. The last and tallest is an emergency one that flows back into the sump where the return pump is.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[rickztahone]

You can not really make anything out from those sized pictures.

 

[uncleof6]

You are better off not buying someone else's problem. They should PAY you for hauling away their garbage. If you have to question if it will work, then odds are—it won't, and that is why it is being sold cheaply.

 

[sleepydoc]

It's possible that it works, but it's also possible that it's a botched job that doesn't work properly. You can't tell anything from the pictures, so it's anyone's guess.

I won't go as far as uncle, but I would research the bean system and be prepared to rebuild it if you buy it. Doing the research will help you figure out if it's likely to work or not.

 

[peterj66]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks from the second picture like the overflow box is on the outside. So it seems to me that its only a question of verifying that the holes from the tank allows enough flow to the overflow and replacing the upturned pipes with T:s and 90 degree angles to get the bean style overflow.
The question is then if the box is sufficiently deep so that the waterlevel is one inch above the 90.
Cant you get the seller to demo his/her system for you?

 

[sleepydoc]

Maybe - I honestly can't tell a thing from the pics

 

[RDtrack]

Sorry guys I know the pics stink. The system works its just a hand made overflow.

My question is more about the bean he has in the overflow (outside) the tank. It appears that the main syphon is flush (screwed in bulkhead) with the bottom of the overflow box. The 2nd syphon has about a 2 inch piece of pvc in the bulkhead to raise it above the primary syphon. Both of these then drain into the sump. The third syphon is about a 4 inch pvc in the bulkhead as an emergency overflow. If needed this would drain into the sump but by the return pump.

My question is more should I install elbows on the straight pvc syphons? Or maybe why would someone install T:s and 90 degree angles?

I know this system worked and it was extremely quiet. Sorry for the pics again if I could get them bigger I would.

The build is extremely nice.

 

[sleepydoc]

That setup could work if it's an external overflow. Bean had an internal coast to coast on his original design and used elbows with side-mounted bulkheads.

A disadvantage with the configuration you describe is that it doesn't have the air tubing that 'trips' it over from a durso/open channel to a full siphon. Presumably that's the intent of the 2" height difference between the emergency and the open channel. Off hand the only possible disadvantage I can see to that setup is that 2" may not be enough for it to convert to a full siphon. How far below the top of the overflow is the emergency pipe? if there's still a couple inches, it would probably be fine. I don't have any direct experience with this configuration, so there may be issues that I'm not aware of.

 

[Gorgok]

The elbows are mainly there to lower the pipe opening so it can't pull air with a vortex, quite important when using side mounted bulkheads as the top edge is usually pretty high up. It might not be an issue at the bottom of 2+" of water, but that depends on the size/flow i think.

The reason for tees, caps and elbows is to be able to open the cap on the tee and shove a cleaning snake down the pipe... not that i have ever thought about doing it, even though i did allow for it even in my build. With open pipes as it is that doesn't matter, you could shove a snake down anytime.

I think it might be harder to tune the open channel level with a flat cut vertical pipe though. With a tee and elbow or just elbow you can raise and lower the water level on the side of it knowing it is changing by tiny amounts. With a flat open pipe once its flowing into it its probably at max capacity before it makes noise as all the walls are running water... Changing the flat cut to a slope might improve it, as you could raise and lower the flow in it by how much of the circumference is flowing. But i haven't had an open channel like that before.

The question asked about how far down all the pipes are from the top is important though, if there isn't enough room to start a siphon on the last pipe then you will have a mess if its ever called into action. Those pixels don't show much though...