BeanAnimal setup
- Thread starter Twistofer
- Start date
rickztahone
New member
hey, same handle here too?
The reasoning behind this, from what I have read is that it is more difficult to keep a 1" pipe or smaller quite. You can expand to 1.25" which will be better than just 1" so that you don't have to go to the 1.5" that Bean uses. That is what my current setup will be as well. If I ever finish it.
uncleof6
Active member
This is explained 100's of times in the main thread. The bulkhead size (along with the length of the drop) limits the maximum flow capacity, and the pipe size determines how close to that "theoretical" limit you can get.
But that is not the only consideration. A 1" durso, has a very limited range. In a BA system, this would make the open channel very touchy adjustment wise, so it is best to go larger with the open channel. It really makes little sense to use different sizes for the drain lines, so 1" bulkheads, with 1.5" pipe, for all three, makes the most sense. Less plug risk as well.
But that is not the only consideration. A 1" durso, has a very limited range. In a BA system, this would make the open channel very touchy adjustment wise, so it is best to go larger with the open channel. It really makes little sense to use different sizes for the drain lines, so 1" bulkheads, with 1.5" pipe, for all three, makes the most sense. Less plug risk as well.
Twistofer
New member
Sorry -- Reading through the main thread I must have missed the point.
Twistofer
New member
hey, same handle here too?
The reasoning behind this, from what I have read is that it is more difficult to keep a 1" pipe or smaller quite. You can expand to 1.25" which will be better than just 1" so that you don't have to go to the 1.5" that Bean uses. That is what my current setup will be as well. If I ever finish it.
Thanks. Appreciated the help.
Twistofer
New member
Just did a bit of research...The BeanAnimal is based on a Durso Standpipe (duh).
http://www.dursostandpipes.com/make-your-own-durso-standpipe. He explains the principle well, and it seems that 1 1/4" is very suitable for tanks under 350 gal. Rick, I agree the smaller tube most likely will serve me well in a 120 gal tank with flow rate of ~1000 -1200 gph. As far as tuning, ball valves are nice, but more precise tuning can be done with gate valve (yes more expensive, but from previous setups well worth the expense.
http://www.dursostandpipes.com/make-your-own-durso-standpipe. He explains the principle well, and it seems that 1 1/4" is very suitable for tanks under 350 gal. Rick, I agree the smaller tube most likely will serve me well in a 120 gal tank with flow rate of ~1000 -1200 gph. As far as tuning, ball valves are nice, but more precise tuning can be done with gate valve (yes more expensive, but from previous setups well worth the expense.
sleepydoc
Team RC
I just finished setting up my 120 with a coast to coast overflow, bean animal system running 1200 gph. From personal experience:
- 1.25" will be plenty for the siphon, but go with 1.5" plumbing for the open channel. It's not that much bigger and gives you a larger range over which the system runs silently and make it easy to tune. 1.25" sanitary tees are also difficult to find. As uncle said, the larger pipes are less prone to plugging as well.
- Definitely use a gate valve. Makes it much easier to adjust. I have a 1" gate valve instead of a 1.5", primarily because I didn't want to spend the extra $20 for the larger capacity I didn't need. Note that this does create a stricture point in the siphon line that is theoretically more prone to plugging, but I figured that what ever could get through the 1" bulkhead could also get through the 1" gate valve.
Twistofer
New member
Thanks Sleepydoc. I'm not using a C2C in my tank. (BTW, it's a biotope Amazonian Basin ( 
OH NOOO! FW) system.) I'm using reefing principles because the biotope for Discus fish require similar stringent monitoring of the system. While the water is soft and acid, it requires CO2 addition and humic acid to simulate the conditions. Also Discus do not like high flow, so I have some wiggle room. I'm a reefer of about 15 yrs experience, so the setup is similar, but needs to be modified... Yes, I'll be using an Apex Neptune to monitor the system. Instead of growing corals, I'll be growing plants and using a nutrient rich substrate. :fun5:
OH NOOO! FW) system.) I'm using reefing principles because the biotope for Discus fish require similar stringent monitoring of the system. While the water is soft and acid, it requires CO2 addition and humic acid to simulate the conditions. Also Discus do not like high flow, so I have some wiggle room. I'm a reefer of about 15 yrs experience, so the setup is similar, but needs to be modified... Yes, I'll be using an Apex Neptune to monitor the system. Instead of growing corals, I'll be growing plants and using a nutrient rich substrate. :fun5:
Twistofer
New member
After spending a small fortune on these plumbing supplies, I just got the "critical supplies" for the 1.5" True Union Ball Valve (3) and 1.5" Gate Valve (3). I bought the Gate Valves when I saw the size and felt the weight of the Ball Valves. Both are unwieldily, heavy and, not to mention unsightly. They also take up about an extra 4" of space behind the tank. :hmm6: I realize that Bean & his cohort, Uncleof6, did a great deal of research and planning regarding their system, but I am not about to build a separate room to disguise this plumbing @ 1.5".
I've read through the 333+ pages on the main thread, and I'm not a lazy, stupid physician. All I would like to know is if anyone has come up with a simple modification to this system to help me reduce the build. I need about 800 - 1000 gph of flow since this is a FW Amazon Basin setup for Discus (yes, I realize this is a reef forum, but the principles are similar, and there is very little on the FW forums to help. Thanks in Advance.
sleepydoc
Team RC
+1
The plumbing shouldn't cost all that much. Plain ABS bulkheads, Straight schedule 40 PVC and PVC fittings and one valve as Gorgok said. The spears schedule 80 valves are a bit more expensive, but have better seals and can be disassembled for cleaning, so it might be worth spending a bit more for them. I got a threaded valve, so I don't have to throw it out in the event I need to change the build. Unions are nice and make it easier to adjust or disassemble the system later, but not necessary.
I have 1.5" plumbing for my drains and I have the tank about 6" out from the wall (no sump room for me, either!) It's actually a good distance as it makes it easier to get behind it run cords, retrieve dropped items, etc. If you put the valve down in the sump, it will probably be easier to reach to make adjustments and not take extra space behind the tank
The plumbing shouldn't cost all that much. Plain ABS bulkheads, Straight schedule 40 PVC and PVC fittings and one valve as Gorgok said. The spears schedule 80 valves are a bit more expensive, but have better seals and can be disassembled for cleaning, so it might be worth spending a bit more for them. I got a threaded valve, so I don't have to throw it out in the event I need to change the build. Unions are nice and make it easier to adjust or disassemble the system later, but not necessary.
I have 1.5" plumbing for my drains and I have the tank about 6" out from the wall (no sump room for me, either!) It's actually a good distance as it makes it easier to get behind it run cords, retrieve dropped items, etc. If you put the valve down in the sump, it will probably be easier to reach to make adjustments and not take extra space behind the tank
fishgate
Active member
I just set up a bean. I used all 1" plumbing. I get plenty of flow probably 1200gph and it is super simple to tune. No adjustments needed at all. I also did not put a cleanout for the full siphon channel. Just a 1" pipe with 2 90s (180 degree bend so the opening faces down). The open channel just has an open top with the water opening facing down (no john guest fitting) and the emergency drain is also just open top (just a standpipe). I used all three gate valves but realistically you do not need any valves accept on the full siphon channel. I made my own over the back return also using 1" pipe.
I have tried to break this every way possible and it won't break or flood.
Twistofer
New member
Sleepy doc,gorgok,fish gate...you've all been a great help. The schedule 40 pipe and fittings were not the expensive part, just the valves and unions. The main concern was the weight of these components as well as the aesthetics in my great room where I entertain. I (and my visitors) want to enjoy the aquarium not the plumbing.��
sleepydoc
Team RC
yes, but good plumbing is a work of art!
You'll save a bunch by eliminating the unnecessary valves and unions.
How visible will the plumbing be? It's hard to make pipe look great, but you can make it look better by painting it. I got some plastic spray paint and painted mine black - looks a whole lot better than the generic white with printing on it. To support it, I used clic supports (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=23686924&postcount=8). They're one of the better looking options, IMHO, but you have to decide what will work best for you.
You'll save a bunch by eliminating the unnecessary valves and unions.
How visible will the plumbing be? It's hard to make pipe look great, but you can make it look better by painting it. I got some plastic spray paint and painted mine black - looks a whole lot better than the generic white with printing on it. To support it, I used clic supports (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=23686924&postcount=8). They're one of the better looking options, IMHO, but you have to decide what will work best for you.
fishgate
Active member
Here is my setup. It works because I don't "quite" have the 1" full siphon at full speed. It is cranked back a bit because my return pump can't keep up with it. If it was at wide-open 1" full siphon I would need the cap and john guest fitting on the open channel to force it to full siphon when the water level rises. As it stands, the emergency drain does pick up some of the flow.
The first pic shows the three gate valves and 1" plumbing. From left to right is is Emergency Drain (full open), Open Channel (Full Open) and Full Siphon (3/4 open). These 3 valves used to be nice and lined up. When I put my skimmer in the sump, I needed to re-arrange the drain pipes and hence their current configuration. Those compression fittings allowed me to do that. I suggest them.
As you can see on the 2nd pic, the middle, (open channel), should have a cap with a hole drilled and fitted with a john guest fitting, and a line looped around just about the water level so that if the water level rises, the open channel is able to go full siphon.
The first pic shows the three gate valves and 1" plumbing. From left to right is is Emergency Drain (full open), Open Channel (Full Open) and Full Siphon (3/4 open). These 3 valves used to be nice and lined up. When I put my skimmer in the sump, I needed to re-arrange the drain pipes and hence their current configuration. Those compression fittings allowed me to do that. I suggest them.
As you can see on the 2nd pic, the middle, (open channel), should have a cap with a hole drilled and fitted with a john guest fitting, and a line looped around just about the water level so that if the water level rises, the open channel is able to go full siphon.
SpikeDangles
New member
What type of fittings would one need to go from 1" bulk head to 1-1/2 or 1-1/4? And is this fitting different for the top and bottom of the bulkhead? Sorry for the hijacking of the thread.
fishgate
Active member
FYI: All of those pipes inside the overflow box are non-glued slip fittings. So they just sit there in the bulkhead friction fit and if I need to I can remove them.
Twistofer
New member
I think I get it all. Just one other thought. My outflow goes into a trickle section of my sump, loaded with bioballs and ceramic (remember this build is a specialized FW system, high nutrients, low pH/Kh/Dh). I have two inlets in the lid of the trickle box to disperse the outflow, can I tee this off as follows?