Beginner's guide to Live Rock

[Palmetto]

You don't have to be quite as concerned about "overcrowding" rock that has been cured. I would add it all at once to a new tank.

With "fresh" rock that still has dying things clinging to it, things can get funky if you pack it in too tightly for the surface area to be exposed to good circulation during the curing process. You should see what the bottom rocks looked like after my first attempts! YUK! (Cramming too much rock in a 40-gallon Rubbermaid with too little circulation)

When you get "cured" rock ordered online, there will be some dieoff, of course- but you don't have pieces of rotting stuff that get pinned and trapped the way you do with fresh rock.

 

[RhumbRunner]

Palmetto

Have you ever used an amonia 'sorb' product during the curing process to lessen the impact of the amonia spike? If so, was it worth it?

 

[Palmetto]

I have used Polypads and Carbon, and I am sure both help a bit.

Anything that will reduce the ammonia would certainly be something to consider.

 

[reese1906]

This is a fantastic post and should remain near the top as many who are new and not so new to the hobby can benefit from this.

Thanks palmetto!

 

[stevensmd]

one thing mentioned in this thread about changing water during the curing process...I wish I had made MORE water changes the first week..I also bought "pre-cured" rock from mail order and it still took about 12 days to cure....the first week is the most crucial..that is where ammonia and nitrite are going to max. If you don't make several water changes that first week, that poison is going to kill stuff on your rock. I wish I would have known that prior to. still learning.

 

[Palmetto]

Hehe... thought I would add this pic of what I found the morning after one of my early shipments... note the small rubbermaid containers and skimmer that can overflow... ah, so many lessons to be learned in this hobby....

My new skimmers are pressurized, and shut themselves down when the waste collector gets full.

My 50-gallon Rubbermaids are now 300G also. VOLUME makes such a difference.

Darren Walker
www.PalmettoReefs.com

 

[wishmaster]

I'd say its working :lol:

 

[DgenR8]

My 50-gallon Rubbermaids are now 300G also. VOLUME makes such a difference.

Darren Walker
www.PalmettoReefs.com

Where did you ever fing 300 gal rubbermaids, and what did you pay???

 

[Palmetto]

I buy mine at a place called Tractor Supply. It is a Rubbermaid Stock tank for agricultural use. I pay about $165 for the 300G.

I have a couple of them now, and plan to get more. I also have a bunch of 110 gallon ones also.

The pics were taken right after hanging the 1,000 watt light with the Parabolic reflector to throw a round light pattern.

(This one is for SPS growout- I am only going to light the LR tanks with NO and VHO)

 

[Im Lon 2]

Do you have scuba gear for that rubber maid container.

From the pic that thing looks like a kiddy pool. lol

 

[Caterham]

This is a really great thread.

I thought that I would post a few pictures of MARSHALL ISLANDS rock. Marshall rock has a unique structure, excellent buffering capacity, wonderful color and is extremely porous. It is considered by many to be the Mercedes of the industry.

 

[tshaw47]

Cycling tank w/ Rock from an existing tank

Cycling tank w/ Rock from an existing tank

I will be setting up a 75g w/ 20g sump in a couple of weeks. I will be hand picking my LR from tanks at Tropicorium, a coral farm in Detroit area. They have thousands of pounds of cured rock in their tanks. My question is what should I expect when I test my water? I plan to put in my DSB put the rock on top of that and not add anything until the water is good. I want to set up a separate QT. Is it likely that I will establish the biological filter without an ammonia spike?

 

[Palmetto]

tshaw, there is going to be a small amount of dieoff just from making the trip to your tank.

What dieoff does occur will start the cycle of your tank just fine.

 

[Palmetto]

Caterham, that is very nice looking rock.

Here are a few of the Kaelini:

Darren Walker
www.PalmettoReefs.com

 

[Palmetto]

This is Fiji, note the different color of the coralline algae:

 

[Palmetto]

Tonga Branch: Very dense, usually rather thin branches:

 

[Palmetto]

Caribbean Shelf: Flat, worm-filled branchy pieces:

 

[Palmetto]

Sorry I didn't think to put pics in the original post- it is a bit easier to picture the differences when you are looking at the rock!

All of these pictures were taken of FRESH rock. Many of the colors will change, and the coralline will become different shades of purple instead of the rainbow you see in the pics. However, if you cure the rock properly without over-basting it in ammonia- there will be a ton of life that survives your cycle. Many of the worms, foraminiferans, misc. corals, etc. will make it through if you treat them well.

 

[RC51]

This has been EXTREMELY helpful! Thanks very much.

 

[Mak71]

In a new tank, just put the rock right in there and cure it IN the tank. No need to do anything special to the water, other than salt and temperature (and of course start with RO or RO/DI water).

Just keep the circulation up and rotate the rock periodically so something does not get trapped under it to fester.

Hey , Palmetto
I also wanna know.. I have to use the RO/DO water and the salt water to cure the rock.. But during the cure time, no need to change water right?? What is the cycle is done.. Do I need to change all the water or just 50% or what?? then I can hard to add one fish at a time?

Kevin