best fish for 20, 30, 50, 75, 100, 150, 200

Mmm, can't possibly answer all of them at once, but corals and inverts first is a real good answer to a tiny tank: corals will TELL you instantly when you've messed up the water quality. Fish tough it out giving no clues till they turn up dead. Since the gobies and blennies that work well in the nano are fragile, best start with the corals and perfect your tank water til they're happy and THEN move in the fragile fish. The larger you go, the less delicate the water balance is to maintain, and the larger (and hardier) the fish can be.

Understand a few things, however: the more fish of the same species you put into a limited space, the possibility of aggression goes sky high. PAY ATTENTION TO THOSE LATIN NAMES! Eg, a chrysiptera damsel is a bit smaller and fairly mild mannered. A dascyllus damsel gets big and is real, real pushy, with an absolute hatred of chromis. When you get into a 'type' of fish, those Latin names are a guide to who's really like whom. WHile you only want one of a kind, mixing some 'ones' can create some problems, so ask around of people who may have tried certain combinations. Eg, lawnmower blennies can get cranky with other blennies, but I happen to know that the starry blenny and the tailspot get along quite well.

One of a kind is a very good rule. Fish don't want friends. They want undisputed territory, all theirs. If you have a big tank, you can work on mated pairs---but understand that mated pairs of red clowns and other fishes can be meaner than the proverbial junkyard dog, and demand a lot of room. Percs are a bit milder, but you really need a hundred gallons before getting more than one damselfish other than clowns; before getting a mate for your [whatever fish you think of.] Pairs are just problematic without enough room. There are probably some exceptions, but do some reading about size and multiples of whatever species you think you might want two of, if your tank is under 100 gallons.

zoas, mushrooms, buttons of whatever sort, all good starters in the softie dept; hammer, acan, candycane good starters for stony---
For a nano, you're probably best with the softies, because the stonies tend to get real big, and multiply, and require a lot of flow, generally. some of the littler zoas make a real nice texture, and you can always trade off a small mushroom rock.
 
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Jon, you could wait on the CUC until you started noticing algae growth. Zoanthids are cool & you can get all sorts of color combinations. Lots of "easy" corals are available, just be aware some can be invasive or aggressive.
 
Thanks for the info guys, really helpful. But now I have to rethink my plan. I wasn't planning on getting corals for at least a year. I'm pretty much just going to stick with softies as suggested.
 
Here's what you want for coral success: for softies, moderate reef lighting. For stonies, high reef lighting. They need that full spectrum.
You need salinity 1.024 to 1.026, but go for 1.024---reef salt mixes mix up that way, at 1/2 cup salt per gallon ro/di water. An ATO to keep that steady is a real good idea...but do the best you can.
Alkalinity test: Salifert test, and buffer (I use Kent dkh buffer)---shoot for 8.3. TO GET THAT, you need a magnesium reading (salifert test) of 1350 (which will hold it a while: the real floor is 1200---alk will fall if mg gets below 1200); and if you have stony coral, you want a calcium level of 420 (Salifert test, again) ---I use Kent supplements; an alternative is 2-part; but use something.= If you get your water to those readings and hold them steady, your fish will thank you, your corals will be happy, and just be sure to Revive-dip your corals (subs for qt for coral pests) and quarantine/tank transfer your fish. Some qt their corals, but beginners don't have an endless supply of tanks and lights, and your chances of getting ich from a coral or invert are far, far, far, far less than the likelihood of getting it from a fish. Don't omit coral dip, however: corals have their own pests, and do have a little observation tank for zoas, because their pests lay eggs that may hatch a few days after the adults have been killed off by the dip. A magnifying glass and strong light are your friend. The good news is, fish don't suffer from coral pests, but then, you don't want your zoas eaten by nudibranchs (sea slugs) either.
 
what are your thought on 6 fairy wrasses in a 30g temporarily, until my 300 is up and running? I would say they would be there fir no longer than 6 weeks

male/female pair of pintails
male/female pair of rhomboids
male female pair of flames
 
I'd say have salt water on hand and some extra buckets where if things go crazy you can move them into separate quarters. It has some risk, and being prepared to deal with a problem is better than scrambling after it develops. Watch them for nips, and provide some hiding places.
 
i haven't done it yet and I am prepared to wait on ordering the rhomboid and the flames. but I already have the pintails in the tank
 
Yah, my plan was to add the orchid dottyback last. And I like to get captive bred whenever possible, so I was planning on that for the orchid. Good to know!

I'm also focusing on captive bred and/or tank raised (prefer captive bred), I had thought to add the dottyback and clowns last.
 
Great post. Now I have some ideas for my next fish purchase. Looking for g and personality.
Currently have 2 clowns, 2 purple firefish and Banggai
 
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