Best QT option for Achilles tang

[Dmorty217]

I will have my 220g tank up and running the end of this month. Currently have a 125g that has been running for 10 months with no issues and cerith, astreas, and ninja astreas breeding regularly. I currently have a 55 QT running. My thoughts are is this is far too small even short term for the Achilles with not nearly enough flow. I could potentially set the 125g back up as a QT for the fish. The 220 DT has 5 cleaner shrimp currently and I planned on adding several more along with cleaner wrasses. The 220g will have 150x turn over rate within. What us my best option for success with this fish? The Achilles is the top fish in the hobby in my book and this tank will be built around housing it

 

[Dmorty217]

I also have a 75g that could be set up as a QT, would still have the flow issue. My other concern is that I read a lot on here about people QTing Achilles for wks with no signs of disease only to have the fish get ich when it is transferred into the DT. With that brewing said is it advisable to skip the QT because of lack of swimming space and flow plus with many cleaner shrimp and wrasse to address the inevitable ich the tang will almost assuredly get when placed into the DT? Obviously with the 200$ sensitive fish I would like to do this the right way but I feel dam*ed if I do dam*ed if I don't

 

[geaux xman]

I QT 2 at separate times in a standard 29g without issue. Aquaclear HOB, mp10, heater. prazi and 3+weeks of cupramine at .5ppm.

one was 3.5", the other about 4".

Most importantly, is find a specimen that is eating well.

 

[Dmorty217]

I QT 2 at separate times in a standard 29g without issue. Aquaclear HOB, mp10, heater. prazi and 3+weeks of cupramine at .5ppm.

one was 3.5", the other about 4".

Most importantly, is find a specimen that is eating well.

Where did you purchase yours from? No LFS has any but good friends of mine own a saltwater store and can get one in for me.

 

[geaux xman]

my 1st, ~4" AT from, DD. Jan 2012.

my 2nd 3.5" AT from LFS(03/2012). I know the guy well and he said they had it for several weeks. It looked healthy and feeding very well, so I felt comfortable with it.

I would be leary about the fish if they said they can get it in. They might get in a bad specimen and you would be stuck with it. Or if you refuse to buy it, then there might be some bad blood between you and the LFS.
Sometimes it might be a little cheaper at the LFS, but theres no 14 day guarantee. LA/DD might be more expensive, but I feel much better with buying a sensitive fish knowing I will get a 14 day guarantee. Plus, they
know they have to guarantee it, so they will try their best to send you a good specimen. Your loss, would be their loss also.

Just something to think about.

 

[pktech]

I also have a 75g that could be set up as a QT, would still have the flow issue. My other concern is that I read a lot on here about people QTing Achilles for wks with no signs of disease only to have the fish get ich when it is transferred into the DT. With that brewing said is it advisable to skip the QT because of lack of swimming space and flow plus with many cleaner shrimp and wrasse to address the inevitable ich the tang will almost assuredly get when placed into the DT? Obviously with the 200$ sensitive fish I would like to do this the right way but I feel dam*ed if I do dam*ed if I don't

I think you're right to QT first, I QT'd mine for 6 weeks w/ a koralia 4, remora c & a shark nose goby that cleaned him every 5 minutes practically in a 55. 10% WC every 3-5 days. I read Fenner recommended a biological cleaner would help the AT relax & I believe it helped & helps now. I got mine from Live Aquaria. Excellent specimen. Good luck w/ your guy

 

[Dmorty217]

my 1st, ~4" AT from, DD. Jan 2012.

my 2nd 3.5" AT from LFS(03/2012). I know the guy well and he said they had it for several weeks. It looked healthy and feeding very well, so I felt comfortable with it.

I would be leary about the fish if they said they can get it in. They might get in a bad specimen and you would be stuck with it. Or if you refuse to buy it, then there might be some bad blood between you and the LFS.
Sometimes it might be a little cheaper at the LFS, but theres no 14 day guarantee. LA/DD might be more expensive, but I feel much better with buying a sensitive fish knowing I will get a 14 day guarantee. Plus, they
know they have to guarantee it, so they will try their best to send you a good specimen. Your loss, would be their loss also.

Just something to think about.

I was under the impression that it was a live arrival guarantee only since this is a expert level fish, is this not right?

 

[geaux xman]

I was under the impression that it was a live arrival guarantee only since this is a expert level fish, is this not right?

All fish from LA/DD comes with a 14 day guarantee. Expert level is just to hinder novices from trying the fish out.

There are other vendors(PIA,BZ, etc) that only provide live on arrival guarantees with fish like the AT.

 

[Ambition]

I'd say that if you can, the 125 as a QT for this fish will be great! There are a few AT owners around here and I have seen the tangs in person. Very active. You could easily get a few of the maxi jets and modify them with the 1200gph upgrade.

Just remember that a natural cleaner is not a way to help with ich.

 

[MrTuskfish]

All fish from LA/DD comes with a 14 day guarantee. Expert level is just to hinder novices from trying the fish out.

There are other vendors(PIA,BZ, etc) that only provide live on arrival guarantees with fish like the AT.

Right. LA/DD guarantees all of their fish, the "expert" comments are a well-needed warning. I buy almost all of my fish from LA/DD and a few from BZ. I would never consider any other source. NYA & PIA are safe places too. I think buying an Achilles from LA (etc.) is a no brainer. The best fish available, probably free delivery, no sales tax, and a guarantee that they honor without a major hassle.

Anyone who says not to QT an Achilles, or any fish, shouldn't be listened to---on any subject. I can't think of a fish that demands quarantine more than an achilles. If fish get ich when put in the DT, the DT had ich and all fish in the DT will eventually have it. Ich doesn't just suddenly appear. If you understand the ich life-cycle; this becomes obvious. I'd read the ich stickies at the top of the disease forum. The more ich-prone a fish is; the more they need a QT regimen. Although almost all tangs handle copper very well; Unless you are familiar with copper, I'd use tank-transfer in the QT. Do TT after the fish is comfortable and eating well. After TT, use Prazi-Pro to get flukes, etc. Observe closely for another two weeks or so. TT doesn't work on velvet or brooklynella, just ich. If ich shows up in the QT, its very easy to cure. All the talk about fish being "stressed' in a QT is nonsense. Its likely the most stress-free place they'll ever see. Quiet, no bullies, food competitors, general mayhem, etc.

The 55 is fine short-term for the QT. Problems with space and tangs is a long-term issue. Cleaner shrimp and cleaner fish do nothing for ich. this has been shown with several studies that examine stomach contents of the cleaners. The ich is buried too deep in the fish, ich isn't on the fish, its buried under the skin.

IMO & IME; there is NEVER a good reason not to use a QT with all fish. If new fish are getting ich in your tank, you'd better take care of that first. Some strains of ich seem to develop TEMPORARY immunity to ich; but that just delays the coming major outbreak.

 

[Dmorty217]

I'd say that if you can, the 125 as a QT for this fish will be great! There are a few AT owners around here and I have seen the tangs in person. Very active. You could easily get a few of the maxi jets and modify them with the 1200gph upgrade.

Just remember that a natural cleaner is not a way to help with ich.

I have a Tunze 6205, a 6215 wavebox and a MP60 on my 125g at the moment and any or all of these could be used while QTing the Achilles because that's how important health and longevity of this fish is to me. Learn something everyday on this forum(didnt know DD came with a 14 day guarantee) with that being said is that where most that have had or have one purchased them from? I love LA and have purchased a bunch of fish from them in the past, so I know the quality of livestock and customer service. What is used most, cupramine or something else to treat with? I have read several things people have used in the past. I just want to do this right, all the money I have spent in the last 3 months(thousands) to get this tank up and running is all about the Achilles

 

[Dmorty217]

MrTuskfish I was hoping you would chime in here and offer some advice. I knew that there is no way you would say not to QT. I have prazipro already but am not 100% familiar with the tank transfer method. I guess I need to search that on here or look around in the disease forum. As far as buying the fish from LA, I think that is the route i will go. Nothing but great experiences in the past and the 14 day guarantee is priceless in my opinion. If anyone else has suggestions please voice them!!

 

[Dmorty217]

Also they say saturated 02 levels are important with the mentioned flow I will have plus a closed loop reeflo hammerhead with penductors( around 20k gph) for a total of near 33k gph. So my question is with the flow and my skimmer(trigger system bursa) will i need a air pump to add to oxygenating the water or will I be ok with this?

 

[MrTuskfish]

Assuming you have pristine water that you're sure is ich-free: DT water is ideal for a QT; Bio-filtration is the important thing; having a mature, functioning bio-filter in the QT QT is a must. You should be seeding the media for the QT filter (I like Aqua Clear HOB filters in a QT) in the flow of your DT for several weeks before you need it. Monitor QT ammonia closely. Nitrate isn't a concern at all in the QT; nitrates don't hurt fish. Skimming in a QT is just something else to mess with; skimming is a long-term process that really serves no real purpose in the QT.Of course, it won't hurt anything and will add flow Extra flow is great, but doesn't need to match the higher flow of most DTs. Have several pieces of pvc for hiding. LR and substrate should not be used in a QT; they will absorb meds. Air pumps don't directly add oxygen, they disturb the surface so that gas exchange can take place. the little bubbles don't oxygenate the water and are a PITA in a SW tank, IMO. An HOB filter with the bio-media and a PH or two angled at the surface will provide plenty of oxygen levels up with no problem.

While doing everything possible to provide a good QT, remember this is just for 6 weeks, don't try to match long-term reef environments.

FWIW;My choices are limited by where I live But I still I wouldn't buy an Achilles from anyone other than LA (both of mine are from there) or DD.

Re: Your statement on ich cure/prevention. IMO & IME; most advertised treatments are worthless. Tank-Transfer (see Snorvich's sticky in the disease forum) , copper (Cupramine is my choice, there are other copper products too.) you'll need a Cu test kit that is compatible with the brand of copper you use. and possibly Chloroquine Phosphate (hard to find, good comments from good aquarists) are the only real options. If you decide to use Cupramine, let me know. there are some little tweaks that make Cupramine safer and easier.

 

[Ridem32]

My AT is coming this Tuesday from LA! The only place to buy! I got my 29 gal QT tank HOB filter about 10lbs live rock! Got one clown fish in there check my levels today all good to go! Just a little nitrate! Glass bottom copper ready for stand by! Got garlic for all food to be soaked got selcon for food soak! I use Startsmart in all my tanks weekly! Just got a PB tang about 4 weeks ago from LA went thru same 29 gal tank! Still feeding him all food soaked with selcon and garlic! He is in a DT with a black spot tang both great eat off of veggie clip like a pack of wolfs! I hope I have good luck with this AT I also have a uv on the tank! I have not lost one fish while using Startsmart. Best stuff I ever used! Website site Startsmart complete ! I buy it buy the gallon! I got myself in a bind with tanks! Had 7 lionfish 3 being over 10inches one about 4 inches! And 4 dwarfs ! Set up a 55 gallon tank glass bottom mixed salt poured in Startsmart complete added all 7 fish in tank at once all lived for 5 weeks all was eating good meaning lots of waste! Then transfers to a 200 gallon same way with Startsmart ! I used double dose every week! All lionfish did great! Very very over crowded! Got pics. But I just joined this forum today got to learn how to do pics and video ! Will let you know how my AT does! I will buy another fish from BZ most of them I use to get came to me in bad shape! And most just arrive alive ! LA 14 days how can you loose! Always get healthy fish from them!

 

[Ridem32]

Mrtuskfish please let me know the tweak tricks for copper! I never had to use it but got it and a test kit! Thanks!

 

[Ridem32]

Correction. I will not ever buy fish from BZ said it wrong in the other post! LA customer service is the best ! If you buy from them already you already know good packing and shipping and they want send you a sick fish if they know its not healthy!

 

[Dmorty217]

I will have had mine from LA on Wednesday for two weeks, he is eating brown, purple, and green seaweed and mysis like a champ and has been since 2 hrs after acclimation! He is getting ready to go into my 55 QT on Wednesday and start that 6 week waiting game

 

[Ridem32]

Dmorty what size tank is yours in now? I got AT on sale for $109 I'm ready for Tuesday! LA had that price for a few days I just hope I got my order in time! I orderd it soon as I received the email stating they was on sale!

 

[Dmorty217]

I'm doing the tank transfers in 12g rimless aquariums I have that are drilled on the bottom, they work really well for this