Best table saw blade for cutting acrylic?

Cox

New member
I finally purchased a table saw and it came with a 24 tooth construction blade. I purchased a separate 100 tooth blade that I thought would be much better to use for cutting acrylic, it did state that it could be used for thin plastic sheet. I chose the 100 tooth blade over the others they had, 60, 80 and 90 tooth. Does anyone who cuts their own acrylic have an opinion on what size (number of teeth) blade is best for acrylic?
 
Your blade should work fine. One thing that helps is a zero clearance throat plate in the saw. You want the gap around the blade to be close to prevent chipping, especially with thin acrilyc.
 
Hi all,

For a 10" table saw, a 60-80 tooth low rake angle triple chip blade is the best. If your saw is set up correctly and the blade is new, you can make solvent joints right off the saw.

I have seen these blades at Home Depot and Lowes, but usually you have to go to a specialty wood working place.

HTH

Adam
 
First off, Tool is one of the sickest bands I've evr heard!
With that being said, ripping acrylic on a saw will give you a decent cut, assuming you are using a high tooth blade, 100 or higher.
Where you might want to take a minute to research is your saw.
I good table saw is going to come with a good fence. Most fences are cheap, thus not keeping your blade parellel to the fence. Make a 6" x 6" cut and check the piece for square. See if its reletively close.
If you parts are coming off the saw square then you are fine. If not you will need a router and some routing jigs to route the parts off of.
Just something to think about.
 
I use a router to cut my acrylic and a cut piece is so nice and smooth you don't even know it was ever cut.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I've heard that by turning the blade around so the teeth spin backwards, will make a better cut with acrylic.
 
I use a dewalt 80T carbide tipped blade, cost me $50 at the depot. I have used it extensively on my projects and it has probly cut more than 300ft of 1/4 acrylic so far. You can see some of my work on my site in my sig.
 
I found this one works well for me

Oldham 10" 200 tooth for plywood/laminates/plastic. I think it was $15 at home depot

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Turning a blade backwards is asking for trouble.
Kickbacks are even more dangerous with acrylics, why compound the problem? Safety first.
 
I find that the carbide tip baldes that I have kick back on plastics if you are not carefull. Maybe I'm doing soomething wrong

Since using the plywood specific blade I have not had any problems
 
Hey I just bought that same blade as you SNARKYS It works great and the edge is just fine. The 3/8" stuff I use glues together very nicely.
 
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._6/104-6043666-5355123?s=hi&v=glance&n=228013

This is really a great blade for cutting acrylic with. Please don't run a blade backward in a table saw, that is just asking for trouble. Also those cheapy $15 steel 150-200 tooth blades work, but after a while they do warp do to the heat generated by the acrylic. FYI, just about any carbide blade will cut acrylic, it just depends on how much acrylic you are going to cut, and if you justify $65 over $15. HTH??
 
I used to use those cheap $15 blades and they work but they become dangerous after awhile when you see acrylic melted to the blade.
Now I use any 80 teeth ATB carbide blade which I currently have a freud.
 
I use Frued blades and have never had an issue with them. But even a brand new sharp blade can have a tooth off. I have my blades gone over before I ever bolt them to my saw.
 
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