Bio Cube Owner's Thread

Where would you put your heater if it would have stayed in chamber 1? I'm using an ato either way so my salinity doesn't get out of whack

If I kept the Hydor in chamber 1 then the heater would have gone in either 2 or 3.

I'm looking at ATOs now, leaning towards the Tunze 3152. What are you using?
 
If you go with a WP10, try and get a 12v power supply for it. I have one with a 24v power supply and I can't find a spot to put it without blowing up my sand bed a making a mountain.
 
Weird. That's the first time I've heard that. Where have you tried it? Is it pointing down into the sand?

No, I've tried putting it in several places, even pointing up near the surface but it still keeps wanting to make a sandstorm. I've got a 12v power supply on the way so hopefully that will help.
 
Do you keep your water at the max line in ch 3, or at another level?

I keep my level pretty close to the top in all 3 chambers.

Chamber 1 -Heater
Chamber 2 -InTank Media Rack with filter floss, Purigen, Chemipure then next to that, Hydor Slim Skim Nano
Chamber 3- stock pump, soon to be replaced with a Cobalt MaxiJet 1200

After I get the ATO straightened out, my next upgrade will be and LED upgrade form Dave at Nano Box Reef. After looking, he seems to have the cleanest looking retro fit right now.
 
I am dialing it back for a bit now. BRS ro/di and skimmer will be the next upgrades, but Im going to hold off a bit and take it easy on the wallet for a while.
 
I hear ya on the take it easy on the wallet side. I'm getting ready to drop a little over $300 on a retro fit led light kit from Dave over at Nano box Reef, then I gotta take it easy for awhile. After that, the only money going into the tank will be my $5 weekly water changes.
 
Let me know how that goes. Skimmer and rodi will be about 350 so I will be lugging buckets for a while as well. $2 a week in rodi is much easier on the wallet haha
 
My closest LFS sells saltwater for $1.00/ gallon and RO for .25/ gallon. Since I will have minimal evaporation because I am keeping the stock lid, I see spending only about $1 per month on top off water. The ATO I was looking at is about $100 so just buying RO for top off is worth it.
 
Good price. I pay .40 a gallon for rodi. I will mix my own salt, so about $2 a week for water changes plus the bit for the ato
 
So I have a sand storm with the WP10. I have it mounted under the intake and pointing to the front. It is on else mode.

Thoughts?
 
Running a wp25 in w1 s3 (slowest it can go) with a short pulse to get a nice wave in my cube. I would say angle it up, play with w1 and the pulse time and speed until you're happy and the sand calms down
 
Hi guys I'm from Indonesia, this is my 1 years old cube 400mm
I only put a local skimer, posguard (in fluidizer) and macro-alga in sump

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So I have a sand storm with the WP10. I have it mounted under the intake and pointing to the front. It is on else mode.

Thoughts?

Find a 12v power supply. I just put one on mine and I can pretty much put the WP10 any where I want in the tank and I get plenty of flow without the sandstorm.
 
Removing the bio balls

Removing the bio balls

Okay so I'm a newb to this hobby. I have a biocube 29. I filled it in February. Since then I have struggled with my Nitrates and Phosphates. I'm doing 20% water changes weekly. I feed every day, once a day but not that much. I still have Nitrates at 25ppm and phosphates at .1ppm. Every string in every aquarium web sites talks about removing the bio balls and replacing them with a media basket like the in tank one and running some purigen and chemipure. I've made the purchase for the rack and filter media. My question is do I remove all of the bio balls at once or do I need to spread it out? Thanks.
 
We would need more info on your tank.

Are you using live rock? what is your bioload?

The bioballs can definitely become nitrate factories from what I have read.
 
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