Bio Cube Owner's Thread

Hi guys - wanted to share a pic of my recently completed custom Coralife Biocube 29. I have a sump/refugium and skimmer (among other things). All rated for an aquarium up to 75gal so I'm getting great skimming and extra capacity all in the same space as the original stock stand. Happy to share details of people are interested. Also have a 24 led configuration built into the biocube hood. From the outside, the setup looks exactly like the stock tank and stand.
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Be sure you get the dimmable kit. I went with the solderless, biocube retrofit, storm x controller for dimming.

LEDs : 12 royal blue, 6 cool white, 4 semi uv, 1 green, 1 red. This makes the best color and also provides the coral with what it needs.
 
Hey guys setting up a bc 29 and want a led light for it to support a nem but I am on a budget from the wife sigh. ... is there a light out there that can do what I need for the 120.00 range
 
Hey guys setting up a bc 29 and want a led light for it to support a nem but I am on a budget from the wife sigh. ... is there a light out there that can do what I need for the 120.00 range

Hi - I would recommend going with a Rapid LED Retrofit kit. The cost is in the $165-$300 range depending on if you want dimmable or not. It can get more expensive than $200 for the dimmable depending on the controller you get.

Link: http://www.rapidled.com/coralife-biocube-29-kits/

I got the 24 LED dimmable solderless kit with a storm x controller which was the best investment I've made on the aquarium. The problem with non-dimmable is that you can't lower the LED intensity which can fry your corals if you were to use all 24 LEDs.
 
I bought ten cool white and ten blue amd two non dimmable transformers and i put them on a piece of alluminum i had, paid about 120. They are great, and if ur worried its too bright just buy smaller transformers theyre like 15 bucks a piece. P.s for a biocube and spring the extra quarters for the solderless
 
Oh, everything's good now. Some vodka dosing helped a lot
How much vodka are you dosing with the 29g. I'm thinking of doing it to get to an ultra low nutrient state while still being able to feed my fishes.

I figure it will bump up the efficiency of my skimming (already surprisingly decent for a nano skimmer)

Did you ramp up the dosing, and how much and how frequently are you dosing? I used to dose on my 120g, but I had a massive efficient skimmer then. Big difference in size though.

Thanks!
 
The BluReef 29 Gallon Biocube

The BluReef 29 Gallon Biocube

Here's my shot at a 29 Gallon Bio Cube.

Purchased 11/2012 Gutted and removed top in May 2014.

Light= A150W Kessil Ocean Blue
Filtration = Removed bioballs and false floor , added cheato ,Flavul Clip on PC light and 3 pounds of live rock + Filter foss.
Pump= Colbalt MJ1200

ended up removing all my SPS and making this a ZOANTHID/PALY/MUSROOM Tank now .
before Christmas
http://youtu.be/VKFllH_f2nI?list=UUI4zeGbv1meoreKvj3vzzrQ

After re Aqua scape and removing SPS 1/3/2015
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Hey all.

I have a 29G Biocube and setting up the center rear chamber to use an In-Tank refugium basket. I would prefer to not have a light over the fuge, so I'm trying to locate a small submersible light to just drop in there. I know there's some 10W halogen submersible but I don't want that much heat in there. I'm looking for a small, low-watt LED submersible light. Scouring Amazon and Ebay without luck.

Any suggestions?
 
Can you peel the black plastic/vinyl off the rear chamber? Is it already peeled out?

I have a 10w LED that I bought off of ebay for ~$12 that I just have hanging behind the tank behind the glass, and it grows plenty of algae back there. I don't even use a basket or even grow cheato, I just let GHA grow back there on the black plastic chamber walls, then scrape it before a water change and siphon it out.

Works great since I like having the chamber empty anyway so I can siphon out settled detritus as well, and draining the back two left chambers is about 5 gallons of water, which is how much I change anyway.
 
I found that you have to scrape the black coating off with A razor blade on the inside. I picked up an LED stunner strip to hang on the back with a suction cup. Should do the job that is fine
 
Hello all! I am getting back into the hobby after 6 years out. I barely got my feet wet the first go around and I'm trying to do things right this time. I decided to join the Biocube club. These tanks have always been a fascination of mine and I love the design of them.

I now have a Biocube 29 that I purchased as an established system (previously running for approx. 2 years). It has been up an running in my house since 05/13/15.

I have the following equipment in there: chamber 1- heater and Biocube skimmer, chamber 2- inTank media rack with filter floss, chemipure and purigen and inTank fuge with cheato (which has a suction cup light pointed on it), chamber 3- stock Coralife return pump with an in-line UV sterilizer, 2 Koralia powerheads inside the DT and stock lighting.

Stock list: sixline wrasse, clown fish, male blue devil damsel, olive chromis, fire shrimp, two peppermint shrimp (I saw aptasia and added these two after I set the tank up), 3 hermits, 2 bumblebee snails, 2 cerith snails and 3 banded trochus snails. I've also got many colonies of different zoanthids, two brain corals, mushrooms and a couple of unidentified corals.

I would eventually like to catch the damsel and chromis and replace them with something cooler. I had purple firefish before and I'm thinking maybe I'd like a couple of them again. I would also like to add a starfish of some kind.

I've got my own RODI unit set up to aide with water changes. I store 55 gallons of RODI water (I've got a 220 gal, 47 gal and a 20 gal fresh tank) and 20 gallons of premixed salt water. I use Instant Ocean reef crystals for this. I've got a heater and powerhead in the saltwater container to keep it ready to go.

My questions:
I just did my first media change today. The tank is clearing up nicely and I hope the water clarity improves because of this. Who knows how long it went before it was changed with the previous owner. I pulled out both inTank baskets and cleaned them up. I noticed that a brown flim had kept the light from reaching the cheato and that there was slime on parts of the cheato too. I clipped the nasty portion of the cheato and scrubbed the inside of the chamber. I put the clean baskets back in and things look good in there now. While I had the cheato out, I didn't see any pods or any other critters in there aside from tiny star fish. After I ensure that all my parameters are squared away, should I add some to the fuge myself to kick start the colony? I'm sure my sixline would appreciate this, more for him to hunt!

The stock return pump is pretty loud and the buzzing it makes is pretty annoying. What pump do your recommend replacing it with that is nearly silent? Having this tank and my 220 gallon sumped freshwater tank in my living room is getting pretty noisy!

How often should I be replacing the bulb in my UV sterilizer and the bulbs for the DT? I have no clue how old the ones I currently have on the tank are now. I would assume they are the original bulbs.

Is there a better skimmer that I can fit into chamber 1 WITH my heater? I really like the Tunze 9200 with the upgraded cup... but I don't think it will function in chamber 1. I have been having issues getting the air flow just right in the Biocube skimmer. It either won't bubble, or bubbles so much that it fills the cup with water in just a few minutes.

Any other advice for this noob is appreciated! I forgot just how much more fun keeping a reef is than boring ol' fresh water tanks. I'm already considering selling off my cichlids in my 220 to make the switch, but don't tell them that!
 
I don't think there are any skimmers that you can fit both a skimmer and a heater in chamber one.

Replacing bulbs, probably annually for the main ones. UV, I think is probably the same, though I'm not sure since I've never run UV.

You can replace your pump with a Maxijet 1200. The Cobalt one is made in italy, and are known for being quieter and potentially more reliable. The standard Marineland ones are made in China.

With your back refugium, I would kill the stars you see (google asterina starfish) if that's what they are. If they are small bristle stars, then that's fine. For seeding pods, I would recommend either buying tigger pods in a bottle from your LFS, buying a pod starter kit online, or find another reefer who would share some new cheato with you that is loaded with pods (very common).

Good luck, and welcome to the club!
 
Thank you! I had no clue those little stars were bad news. I pulled them all out of my fuge yesterday and threw them in the DT. I will go through and pick them all out today and flush them.

I will run to my LFS today and get new lights and check out the Maxijet. That seems to be what I see everyone using on here and on YouTube.

Unfortunately, I only know one other reefer and she does things her own way and I'm not sure I'd want anything from her tank in mine. She doesn't run a fuge so I'm out of luck with donated cheato. My LFS in town is crappy and my "go to" store out of town just burnt down (so terrible....) so looks like I'll be getting bottled pods to seed my tank. What's the best place to find these?

I am looking into getting a brittle star for my tank in the next few days. These guys are so active and I want to keep my sand bed clean. Would I be okay with getting one with my current bioload?
 
A seemingly nice source of info: Drs. Foster Smith on breeding your own copepods

I've always been intreagued by these guys, but I bet shipping costs are painful.

Your best bet is to ask the LFS if they have any "Tiger pods" that are sold in the bottle, or if they can at least order them. Many/most LFS I've been to have them, I think they're usually a pretty staple product if they're a saltwater store. Just make sure that some of them are alive. If they are, buy it, temperature acclimate the bottle to your tank, and pour them into the back. They should take to the cheato, and hopefully there is enough biological activity in your tank to keep them fed on smaller particulates.

The brittle start, kind of the same thing, you just want/need biological activity since they eat waste/biological matter in the sand.

I don't have any sand sifters, though I probably should get some.
 
I also have a question about my light cycle. This is what I do now: no lights from 10pm-7am, LED moonlights from 7am-4pm and atenic/daylights from 4pm-10pm. Is this sufficient? I work 10pm-7am, rest/sleep 7am-4pm and am awake and active from 4pm-10pm, which is why my cycle is like this. I also leave my fuge light on 24/7. The light can't be seen in my DT.
 
I would bump up your daylight period to somewhere closer to 8 hours, just because PC don't provide a lot of light, so your corals could use the extra photoperiod. Otherwise it sounds good.

My actinic lights come on at like 11:30am, then full brightness at 12:00, then full brightness down to actinic only at 10:30pm, and lights off at 11pm, no moonlights. I do that because I work 9-6pm and go to bed around 11pm.
 
No problem, we've all been there.

I'm just debating whether to start a thread of my own, or just add my tank to this thread. I have had a fun experience and learned a lot, and it would probably help others to share it.
 
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