GobyJohnKenobi
New member
I have been wanting to do a "Nano Cube" style reef for some time now. Pretty much since I saw a fully stocked one on display at a LFS.
I liked the size and the shape, and I was amazed by the tiny reefs that could be created and maintained in them. But on closer inspection I just couldn't get past the plastic "feel" of them. I started learning more about them and all of the mods that people were doing to improve them, and I wondered why should I spend all that money to purchase one and then spend even more money to modify it. Then the news broke about electrical and breakage problems, and that was enough to finally steer me clear of them.
But I still really liked the look and the concept. I still look at all the stocked Cubes on display for inspiration and ideas.
So now I'm six months into establishing a 15 High AGA, and Oceanic finally comes out with their version of the all-in-one Cube. I walked into one of my favorite LFS's- the one that carries all the Nice Oceanic tanks that I dream about- and he had two of the 8 gallon Biocubes on display.
On my first glance I thought, "This thing is cool- like Darth Vader Cool". :strooper:
On closer inspection, I really like the way it looks, the "feel" of it. I lift the top, and it has a much more solid feel to it. I'm impressed and that little spark of a Cube reef gets rekindled. Curious but cautious, I walk out. I call him the next day for information about pricing, and I'm told that both have them have sold already for the introductory price of $179.
A week goes by, and I'm still thinking about it. No other store that I visit has them or even much interest in carrying them. I walk back in on Thursday for another look at his latest shipment. He has one, only one, and it's still in the box. I always told myself that I would never buy a Cube unless I could see the condition of its original packaging, and the box was perfect. The spark finally ingnited, and my wallet got scorched.
I rationalized it like this:
The Nano Cube 6 goes for $139.
The Bio Cube 8 has a third more volume.
The BC 8 has 100% more light with the option of dusk to dawn with the dual circuits.
It has Dual Coralife blue LED moonlights. The ones that sell for about $16 each.
The lighting ballasts are external.
The cooling fan setup makes sense to me.
The BC 8 has a "solid" feel to me.
It reminded me of my dearly loved Saab 900 Turbo SPG... RIP.
It's like Darth Vader Cool, Man! :strooper:
I bought it for $179 after opening the box and inspecting it for any damages or defects. It's an Oceanic! My expectations are high!
I got home, unpacked the cube and set it on the endtable right beside the couch. I always wanted an "upclose" tank that I could enjoy in comfort. It looks Great there! I go to bed with visions of all those cool display cubes dancing in my head.
No. I don't have a life. That's why this post is so long.
Bear with me here...
Yesterday I came home from work and decided it was time for a closer inspection.
External Fit-and-Finish:
Very nice. Clean lines.
The plastic trim is nicely joined to the glass. The lid seals well to the top of the tank frame. Zero light bleed at the juncture.
The rocker switches for the lights are covered with rubber boots, and the left switch controls the front light and the fans.
The fan grills are nicely done with only a small amount of light visible on the sides and none to the front. The fan on the left is intake and the right fan is exhaust. Correspondingly, I can't feel any heat on the left side of the hood, and the right side feels slightly warm over the bulbs after running for a 24hr burn-in.
There is almost no noise from the fan motors- only a slight sound of moving air to let me know they are functioning besides the warm exhaust air.
The 3 cords for the lights are well placed and sealed with rubber grommets where they enter the hood. A nice touch. And there are large notches in the hood beside each of the sturdy hinges to allow for pump and heater power cords.
The back of the Cube appears to be a glass panel covered in an opaque film and surounded by a frame. Interesting...
Internal Fit-and-Finish:
I do like the black silicon sealer, but it's application was rather sloppy overall. To their credit, the two vertical seams at the back corners of the tank are perfect, and they are the only ones that would be visible with the other sloppy seams around the bottom of the tank hidden by a sandbed. I had to remove a number of large, loose flaps of sealant that were just hanging in the rear chambers of the tank. Some of them were blocking the flow vents or not allowing the filtration pieces to seat properly.
All of the plastic pieces have a sturdy, well cast look and feel and fit together well.
Wiring:
The power cords for the PC bulbs are MASSIVE in gauge. I would almost say overkill. Each cord has a disconnect that is equally massive and should seal extremely well against any moisture. A collar screws in place to secure the connection. Arrows on both connectors allow for ease of alignment.
Even the quick disconnect for the LEDs has a positive click when fully engaged.
The transformer for the LEDs is located inline with a standard 2-prong plug, so only one outlet is needed rather than the multiple wasted outlets when the plug and transformer are combined. Another nice touch.
After running for 24 hours, the lighting ballasts are barely warm to the touch. The ballasts each have two holes on opposing corners to allow for easy mounting to a surface.
My only complaint so far is that the outside edges of one of the PC connectors was smashed flat and completely out of round making the initial connection EXTREMELY difficult. The material is more of a hard rubber than a plastic, so I hope it will reshape itself after being connected for a while. The light still functions fine.
A MAJOR CONCERN: I tried plugging all of the components into a powerstrip that is plugged into a heavy duty, outdoor, contractor rated GFCI power cord. The pump and LEDs functioned just fine, but when I plugged in the PC lights and flipped either switch; it instantly tripped the GFCI and shut everything down. I can't explain why this is happening. My only workaround so far has been to plug anything in contact with the water into the GFCI and the lights into a non-GFCI strip.
Any suggestions, advice, insight or concerns are welcome on this. I would prefer a 100% GFCI power setup, of course.
Lighting:
The lighting fixture is very well enclosed into the hood by a clear cover that completely seals into a channel around the perimeter.
The reflector extends back over the filtration area. This makes me wonder if any extra lighting would be needed for growing macro algae in any of the rear chambers...
The PC bulbs are standard Coralife STRAIGHT 4-pins. I was hoping to convert to Current's SQUARE pin bulbs, but the mounts are rigid sockets rather than individual wire connectors.
I should have known.
So far I have not seen the 18W Actinic or 10K for sale anywhere, only the 18W 50/50. I am thinking of replacing the 10K with the 50/50 for a bluer look.
On a side note: The 10K bulb was placed on the circuit with the fans. I want the actinics to come on first and stay on last, and the fans to come on with the actinics. I also like the look of having the actinics in front of the daylights, so I swapped the bulb's positions.
Filtration:
If I wanted a killer wet-dry filtration system in a very small package, this is IT. Unfortunately, that isn't what I want.
However, I do like what they have done.... for the most-part.
I do not like the polyfiber/carbon/plastic frame filter cartridge that the first chamber is designed to hold. I also do not like that I am unable to remove the slotted tray that seperates the top and bottom intakes. I think it should be removable, but the silicon sealer was really splashed around back there and probably fused it into place. THe owner of the LFS did seem excited about the cartridge. I wonder....
I do like the drip tray at the top of the second chamber and plan to keep it for a little extra aeration and straining. The lower bioball tray is now the perfect place to put a pouch or two of Purigen- which fit perfectly!!! - and also act as a bubble trap. At the moment, I have no plans for any live rock or macro algae in the back compartments. But I do believe that it could be done, and maybe even with no extra lighting.
The final chamber houses a small sponge and a small pump. I removed the sponge. This is the area that I wish was a good bit larger, and I wish the first chamber was smaller. One of the Maxi-Jet series pumps will fit into the chamber with its intake strainer removed, but just barely. I didn't try it, because I figured the vibration and noise might be unbearable. Heat might also be an issue, because there is not much room for water to circulate around the body af the Maxi-Jet. I hope to be proven wrong on both counts.
The Max/Min window on the side of the Cube is only useful if the wet dry is used. Setting the level to Max with the bioballs removed and using the drip plate results in ALOT of splashy-drippy noises. I intend to fill it high enough to allow me to mount a Visitherm Stealth heater in the last chamber. That way its temp. senser will also take into account the added heat from the pump. I will probably mount the thermometer senser in the first compartment.
Circulation:
The pump that comes standard with it flows 106 GPH and looks almost identical in size and form to the Micro-Jet pump that flows 117 GPH.
My only modification/upgrade so far has been to replace the stock pump with the Micro-Jet. The stock pump became noisy after only a few hours of operation even though its suction cups were firmly mounted to the bottom, and its cord was a flimsy feeling two prong affair. The Micro-Jet uses a very stout three prong cord, has over heating/rundry protection, and so far has been silent.
Temp has dropped half of a degree with the new pump and the extra flow is an added bonus.
Oddly enough, the tank does run about 2 degrees cooler with the lights on and the fans running. This even though the fans only circulate air thru the sealed lighting assembly.
All things considered, I like the BioCUBE 8 very much. I actually think I did get my money's worth.
I'm pretty happy with these minimal mods so far:
1. Replacing the bioballs with 2 pouches of Purigen.
2. Replacing the stock pump with a Micro-Jet MC 450.
3. Swapping the bulbs so the fans come on with the actinics, and the actinics are in front.
I know this was a heck of a long read, but I wanted to give a bit more information about this new tank. I haven't been able to find out anything online about these tanks or even locate an online retailer that stocks them.
Thanks for reading. I hope this helps if you are considering the purchase of a BC 8.
I liked the size and the shape, and I was amazed by the tiny reefs that could be created and maintained in them. But on closer inspection I just couldn't get past the plastic "feel" of them. I started learning more about them and all of the mods that people were doing to improve them, and I wondered why should I spend all that money to purchase one and then spend even more money to modify it. Then the news broke about electrical and breakage problems, and that was enough to finally steer me clear of them.
But I still really liked the look and the concept. I still look at all the stocked Cubes on display for inspiration and ideas.
So now I'm six months into establishing a 15 High AGA, and Oceanic finally comes out with their version of the all-in-one Cube. I walked into one of my favorite LFS's- the one that carries all the Nice Oceanic tanks that I dream about- and he had two of the 8 gallon Biocubes on display.
On my first glance I thought, "This thing is cool- like Darth Vader Cool". :strooper:
On closer inspection, I really like the way it looks, the "feel" of it. I lift the top, and it has a much more solid feel to it. I'm impressed and that little spark of a Cube reef gets rekindled. Curious but cautious, I walk out. I call him the next day for information about pricing, and I'm told that both have them have sold already for the introductory price of $179.
A week goes by, and I'm still thinking about it. No other store that I visit has them or even much interest in carrying them. I walk back in on Thursday for another look at his latest shipment. He has one, only one, and it's still in the box. I always told myself that I would never buy a Cube unless I could see the condition of its original packaging, and the box was perfect. The spark finally ingnited, and my wallet got scorched.
I rationalized it like this:
The Nano Cube 6 goes for $139.
The Bio Cube 8 has a third more volume.
The BC 8 has 100% more light with the option of dusk to dawn with the dual circuits.
It has Dual Coralife blue LED moonlights. The ones that sell for about $16 each.
The lighting ballasts are external.
The cooling fan setup makes sense to me.
The BC 8 has a "solid" feel to me.
It reminded me of my dearly loved Saab 900 Turbo SPG... RIP.
It's like Darth Vader Cool, Man! :strooper:
I bought it for $179 after opening the box and inspecting it for any damages or defects. It's an Oceanic! My expectations are high!
I got home, unpacked the cube and set it on the endtable right beside the couch. I always wanted an "upclose" tank that I could enjoy in comfort. It looks Great there! I go to bed with visions of all those cool display cubes dancing in my head.
No. I don't have a life. That's why this post is so long.
Bear with me here...
Yesterday I came home from work and decided it was time for a closer inspection.
External Fit-and-Finish:
Very nice. Clean lines.
The plastic trim is nicely joined to the glass. The lid seals well to the top of the tank frame. Zero light bleed at the juncture.
The rocker switches for the lights are covered with rubber boots, and the left switch controls the front light and the fans.
The fan grills are nicely done with only a small amount of light visible on the sides and none to the front. The fan on the left is intake and the right fan is exhaust. Correspondingly, I can't feel any heat on the left side of the hood, and the right side feels slightly warm over the bulbs after running for a 24hr burn-in.
There is almost no noise from the fan motors- only a slight sound of moving air to let me know they are functioning besides the warm exhaust air.
The 3 cords for the lights are well placed and sealed with rubber grommets where they enter the hood. A nice touch. And there are large notches in the hood beside each of the sturdy hinges to allow for pump and heater power cords.
The back of the Cube appears to be a glass panel covered in an opaque film and surounded by a frame. Interesting...
Internal Fit-and-Finish:
I do like the black silicon sealer, but it's application was rather sloppy overall. To their credit, the two vertical seams at the back corners of the tank are perfect, and they are the only ones that would be visible with the other sloppy seams around the bottom of the tank hidden by a sandbed. I had to remove a number of large, loose flaps of sealant that were just hanging in the rear chambers of the tank. Some of them were blocking the flow vents or not allowing the filtration pieces to seat properly.
All of the plastic pieces have a sturdy, well cast look and feel and fit together well.
Wiring:
The power cords for the PC bulbs are MASSIVE in gauge. I would almost say overkill. Each cord has a disconnect that is equally massive and should seal extremely well against any moisture. A collar screws in place to secure the connection. Arrows on both connectors allow for ease of alignment.
Even the quick disconnect for the LEDs has a positive click when fully engaged.
The transformer for the LEDs is located inline with a standard 2-prong plug, so only one outlet is needed rather than the multiple wasted outlets when the plug and transformer are combined. Another nice touch.
After running for 24 hours, the lighting ballasts are barely warm to the touch. The ballasts each have two holes on opposing corners to allow for easy mounting to a surface.
My only complaint so far is that the outside edges of one of the PC connectors was smashed flat and completely out of round making the initial connection EXTREMELY difficult. The material is more of a hard rubber than a plastic, so I hope it will reshape itself after being connected for a while. The light still functions fine.
A MAJOR CONCERN: I tried plugging all of the components into a powerstrip that is plugged into a heavy duty, outdoor, contractor rated GFCI power cord. The pump and LEDs functioned just fine, but when I plugged in the PC lights and flipped either switch; it instantly tripped the GFCI and shut everything down. I can't explain why this is happening. My only workaround so far has been to plug anything in contact with the water into the GFCI and the lights into a non-GFCI strip.
Any suggestions, advice, insight or concerns are welcome on this. I would prefer a 100% GFCI power setup, of course.
Lighting:
The lighting fixture is very well enclosed into the hood by a clear cover that completely seals into a channel around the perimeter.
The reflector extends back over the filtration area. This makes me wonder if any extra lighting would be needed for growing macro algae in any of the rear chambers...
The PC bulbs are standard Coralife STRAIGHT 4-pins. I was hoping to convert to Current's SQUARE pin bulbs, but the mounts are rigid sockets rather than individual wire connectors.
I should have known.
So far I have not seen the 18W Actinic or 10K for sale anywhere, only the 18W 50/50. I am thinking of replacing the 10K with the 50/50 for a bluer look.
On a side note: The 10K bulb was placed on the circuit with the fans. I want the actinics to come on first and stay on last, and the fans to come on with the actinics. I also like the look of having the actinics in front of the daylights, so I swapped the bulb's positions.
Filtration:
If I wanted a killer wet-dry filtration system in a very small package, this is IT. Unfortunately, that isn't what I want.
However, I do like what they have done.... for the most-part.
I do not like the polyfiber/carbon/plastic frame filter cartridge that the first chamber is designed to hold. I also do not like that I am unable to remove the slotted tray that seperates the top and bottom intakes. I think it should be removable, but the silicon sealer was really splashed around back there and probably fused it into place. THe owner of the LFS did seem excited about the cartridge. I wonder....
I do like the drip tray at the top of the second chamber and plan to keep it for a little extra aeration and straining. The lower bioball tray is now the perfect place to put a pouch or two of Purigen- which fit perfectly!!! - and also act as a bubble trap. At the moment, I have no plans for any live rock or macro algae in the back compartments. But I do believe that it could be done, and maybe even with no extra lighting.
The final chamber houses a small sponge and a small pump. I removed the sponge. This is the area that I wish was a good bit larger, and I wish the first chamber was smaller. One of the Maxi-Jet series pumps will fit into the chamber with its intake strainer removed, but just barely. I didn't try it, because I figured the vibration and noise might be unbearable. Heat might also be an issue, because there is not much room for water to circulate around the body af the Maxi-Jet. I hope to be proven wrong on both counts.
The Max/Min window on the side of the Cube is only useful if the wet dry is used. Setting the level to Max with the bioballs removed and using the drip plate results in ALOT of splashy-drippy noises. I intend to fill it high enough to allow me to mount a Visitherm Stealth heater in the last chamber. That way its temp. senser will also take into account the added heat from the pump. I will probably mount the thermometer senser in the first compartment.
Circulation:
The pump that comes standard with it flows 106 GPH and looks almost identical in size and form to the Micro-Jet pump that flows 117 GPH.
My only modification/upgrade so far has been to replace the stock pump with the Micro-Jet. The stock pump became noisy after only a few hours of operation even though its suction cups were firmly mounted to the bottom, and its cord was a flimsy feeling two prong affair. The Micro-Jet uses a very stout three prong cord, has over heating/rundry protection, and so far has been silent.
Temp has dropped half of a degree with the new pump and the extra flow is an added bonus.
Oddly enough, the tank does run about 2 degrees cooler with the lights on and the fans running. This even though the fans only circulate air thru the sealed lighting assembly.
All things considered, I like the BioCUBE 8 very much. I actually think I did get my money's worth.
I'm pretty happy with these minimal mods so far:
1. Replacing the bioballs with 2 pouches of Purigen.
2. Replacing the stock pump with a Micro-Jet MC 450.
3. Swapping the bulbs so the fans come on with the actinics, and the actinics are in front.
I know this was a heck of a long read, but I wanted to give a bit more information about this new tank. I haven't been able to find out anything online about these tanks or even locate an online retailer that stocks them.
Thanks for reading. I hope this helps if you are considering the purchase of a BC 8.
