Lilbitreefer
New member
It is the water draining vertically into the pipes
Black Friday Tank Build
- Thread starter Lilbitreefer
- Start date
leviburns89
New member
So the noise is coming from inside the pipes themselves, and not the water leaving the pipe and hitting the sump correct?
Idk if it's possible, but you could switch out a couple of the 90's in the system for 45s, which would let the water "flow" down the pipe vs "falling".
Perhaps there is also a way to insulate the exposed pipe that isn't submerged, thus dampening the sound a bit.
Those options might work, but you may need some advice from people with similar issues, and how they handled the situation
Idk if it's possible, but you could switch out a couple of the 90's in the system for 45s, which would let the water "flow" down the pipe vs "falling".
Perhaps there is also a way to insulate the exposed pipe that isn't submerged, thus dampening the sound a bit.
Those options might work, but you may need some advice from people with similar issues, and how they handled the situation
Lilbitreefer
New member
that is what I plan on doing. I am going to get some pipe insulting foam. unfortunately I do not have the room and already glued everything together to do the 45'.
Lilbitreefer
New member
ok so I tried the pipe insulating foam didn't do ****. I tried playing with the plumbing and adjust it with some 45's so help alleviate the vertical noise. well it didn't seem to work. Another problem I appear to be having before and after the angle change is that the water line at the Durso is higher than where it should be thus resulting in intermittent gurgling noise as if it was on a siphon. I have it fully open and the only difference between the two sides is that this one has a longer route to got to where I need it to drain. Any thoughts ?
leviburns89
New member
Add a sponge filter at the base of the drain pipe? Help break up the water fall.
I do know that your problem is not an isolated incident, most sump designs sacrifice noise for water volume.
I'm sorry that I'm the only person with advice so far, kinda like getting all your groceries from one store.
Maybe you can insert a baffle of some sort in the drain pipe to break up the water flow within the pipe.
Maybe you could soundproof your tank stand with egg cartons. I've used them on home sound studios, and they work quite well. Line the walls with egg crate, or corogated foam, helps break up the sound waves.
I do know that your problem is not an isolated incident, most sump designs sacrifice noise for water volume.
I'm sorry that I'm the only person with advice so far, kinda like getting all your groceries from one store.
Maybe you can insert a baffle of some sort in the drain pipe to break up the water flow within the pipe.
Maybe you could soundproof your tank stand with egg cartons. I've used them on home sound studios, and they work quite well. Line the walls with egg crate, or corogated foam, helps break up the sound waves.
don_chuwish
Member
I think I need to see more plumbing pics before I can come up with any ideas!
Lilbitreefer
New member
I will post more when I get home today
Lilbitreefer
New member
pictures
pictures
So ignore the foam pipe hanging it is not connected to anything. I initially has a 90' that connected to it but decided to try the 45'. I tried the 45 and had no change in water noise. I also sealed the sock rings to prevent water from tripping thus reducing noise there. Where I am hearing the most noise it in the vertical area where the bulkhead starts and then below the tank. I have thought about putting a pea trap in the horizontal area I heard this can help as well.
pictures
So ignore the foam pipe hanging it is not connected to anything. I initially has a 90' that connected to it but decided to try the 45'. I tried the 45 and had no change in water noise. I also sealed the sock rings to prevent water from tripping thus reducing noise there. Where I am hearing the most noise it in the vertical area where the bulkhead starts and then below the tank. I have thought about putting a pea trap in the horizontal area I heard this can help as well.
don_chuwish
Member
I wonder if that long almost horizontal part is having trouble getting air out of the line. Is it supposed to be a full siphon? How deep into the sump water level does it go?
Lilbitreefer
New member
most of the noise seems to be coming from the vertical portion and maybe the horizontal. There should not be a full suction but I think that may be part of the problem. the horizontal might be trying to pull a full suction. At the top of the durst the water should not be covering the elbow but on this side it is just about covering it. I tried making the vent hole bigger that did not do much. Any thoughts?
Lilbitreefer
New member
I might try that egg carton idea, are you just talking about the foam you buy for mattresses?
leviburns89
New member
Here is a pretty cool link about soundproofing.
Could help you out.
http://bobbyowsinski.blogspot.com/2014/10/how-not-to-soundproof-your-studio.html?m=1
Could help you out.
http://bobbyowsinski.blogspot.com/2014/10/how-not-to-soundproof-your-studio.html?m=1
Lilbitreefer
New member
So here is what the tank looks like underneath no water added. Water soon to come maybe next week just working at getting my water supply up. House water pressure is ridiculously unpredictable, 40 psi one day then 60 psi the next. trying not to run it when the psi is low, besides I am still waiting for the light to come in. I ordered the 36-48 Inch Current USA Orbit Marine LED Aquarium Light. Figured this would be a affordable light to try out.
leviburns89
New member
As long as your water pressure stays at 40psi or above, you're fine to run most rodi systems.
My current psi in my basement is 75+. The kitchen sink is about 45. I run it full bore on the basement sink.
I don't know what rodi system you use, but the 75gpd system had the most optimal rodi/waste ratio, thus my choosing. Trying to get them pennies to add up
My current psi in my basement is 75+. The kitchen sink is about 45. I run it full bore on the basement sink.
I don't know what rodi system you use, but the 75gpd system had the most optimal rodi/waste ratio, thus my choosing. Trying to get them pennies to add up
Lilbitreefer
New member
I have the BRS water saver one and it says it needs to be above 50 PSI for it to work properly. My DI resin has been exhausted pretty fast due to the lack of pressure.
leviburns89
New member
I know you probably don't want to have to buy anything, but you can get a water pressure booster for around $100, and guarantee 100 psi constantly.
Lilbitreefer
New member
I have thought about getting one of those but I don't have an outlet where I am making water. I would have to get an extension cord.
Lilbitreefer
New member
Ok so I got a few questions. Right now I am ready to add water rock and sand, my problem now is that I am only able to make salt water in 30 gallon batches/two days due to the size of my brute containers and the speed of making ro/di water. Will it be ok to place the rock and add just the 30 gallons? Once I get the rock out of the second brute can I can get 60 gallons or so in the next day or two depending on how long it takes for the RO/DI system to make the water.
leviburns89
New member
Rock first, so it rests firmly in its final place, sand second, aim for 1.5-2", then finally add water. Try to do it all in one shot if you can.
If your rock has been curing in total darkness, there shouldn't be any growth on it. At least from what I've noticed in my own tank. The cure simply allows basic bacteria to break down phosphates and coat the rock with a beneficial film that will aid further colonization and prevent harmful bacterias.
So back to your question, as long as you can get the rock submerged before it dries, you should be fine. This may mean you have to add rock as water permits tho. i.e. don't add more rock than the current water supply can cover.
Also! If you haven't already, be sure to calibrate your Refractometer with calibration fluid, and not rodi. I just read some serious articles on why calibration via rodi is super bad.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1963296
Here is a wicked useful thread on that
How big is your tank? And have you planned out your possible aquascape yet? As in height and width in relation to the volume of water it takes to reach said height?
All in all, you're doing great, just be sure to keep reading, and ask whenever you have a doubt, and even when you dont.
If your rock has been curing in total darkness, there shouldn't be any growth on it. At least from what I've noticed in my own tank. The cure simply allows basic bacteria to break down phosphates and coat the rock with a beneficial film that will aid further colonization and prevent harmful bacterias.
So back to your question, as long as you can get the rock submerged before it dries, you should be fine. This may mean you have to add rock as water permits tho. i.e. don't add more rock than the current water supply can cover.
Also! If you haven't already, be sure to calibrate your Refractometer with calibration fluid, and not rodi. I just read some serious articles on why calibration via rodi is super bad.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1963296
Here is a wicked useful thread on that
How big is your tank? And have you planned out your possible aquascape yet? As in height and width in relation to the volume of water it takes to reach said height?
All in all, you're doing great, just be sure to keep reading, and ask whenever you have a doubt, and even when you dont.
Similar threads
