Breeding and Raising H. taeniopterus

Seahorses

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In about three weeks I will be getting a pair of Hippocampus taeniopterus. They should breed and I just want to know the best way to breed and raise these guys. I know that the "Kuda" species is very confusing and that some species are easier to raise.......... I'm not sure what they eat, and if they are pelagic at birth or not...
Thanks for the help.
 
They will be pelagic at birth and normally be started off on enriched rotifers.
Probably after 10 days to 2 weeks you would start adding enriched bbs along with the rotifers, gradually reducing the rotifers over the next 10 days to 2 weeks. Keep feeding enriched bbs until they are large enough to start eating larger enriched juvenile brine.
 
We rear these with a very high success rate. They do best with copepods as a first food but you will never have enough copepods. But the more you give them especially at the start the higher your survival rates are likely to be. As Ray mentions, you will need rotifers. When we used rotifers, we kept them on them for a shorter period. Typically around 5 days and then began artemia overlapping the two foods.

They are pelagic at first. Typically the first two weeks.

We use a round tub rather than a kreisel. Gentle current circulating horizontally.

You should find them easier than H. reidi but more difficult than H. erectus. Adults get quite large and they have a fairly long life span. Our brood stock are around 5 years old and in the 9 to 10 inch size range.

Dan
 
Hi Dan, when you mean round tubs, do you mean like Koi Show Bowls? On fusedjaw.com (I'm sorry if posting this breaks any rules), I believe that it's you that posted an article on how to setup a raising tank for hippocampus Erectus. Would that work? Or is that not what you meant by round tub with horizontal current?
Thanks a lot
 
The Koi Show Bowls are a scaled down version. We do use them for small or odd batches of fry. We normally use 90 gal poly tanks. Essentially the same thing just bigger. H. taeniopterus can have fairly large batches of fry once they get cranking. 500 to 700 is not uncommon with large adults. 400 to 500 as a general rule, at least with ours. For us, the larger tanks are less work and more stable. We can put more food in and keep them in the same tank until they are ready to more to seller tanks. But it is the same general concept as the Koi Show Bowls. We use the same concept for all of our seahorse fry, both pelagic and benthic.

Dan
 
What do you reccomend for feeding densities (ie. Rotifers <1/ml). Do you reccomend the green water approach? Also for the Koi show bowl rearing tank do you put a screen to prevent babies from flowing out? And if you do what size? Sorry for all these questions... Now that a true true expert is answering some of my questions, I just want to get everything right :)
 
We don't count the densities. We eyeball it. After 10 years you kinda get a feel for it. We are also around all day so we can add more easily. For rotifers, they don't aggressively chase after them and they are so small, that you don't see much of a snick. If you look closely they kind of just open up and swallow them no real visible snick.

The copepods, especially larger ones will get them to do a visible snick.

For the copepods, you want calanoid species. Which ever you can culture will work. They can take food in the 120 to 300 plus micron range from day one. After 3 days or so they can take 250 to 500 microns.

Some of the studies have tried to count how many food items fry eat. One study found they can consume 1 to 2 food items a minute. So for a 14/10 light cycle at one food item per minute X 60 minutes X 14 hours = 840. I generally figure 1,000 copepods per day per fry. It doesn't take a mathematician to realize you will never have enough pods.

Ray's links should give you the info needed for the screen. I just use a dremel to cut away and then cover with 670 micron screening from Aquatic Eco Systems. Clear PVC glue is the best to adhere it to the PVC. I get several years out of them with constantly bleaching them to sterilize them between broods.

Dan
 
The adult brine we test a few times. Whenever they can start taking it, we offer it. We continue with the naups though. Getting them to larger food typically results in faster growth due to the larger biomass and less energy expended eating. They will surprise you at how small they are and yet can eat adult brine.

Dan
 
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