Brightwell Aquatics NeoZeo method.

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I am having an issue, kind of a white fuzzy film on the glass. I had it before I started the mb7, but it hasn't really subsided. I have never tested for nitrates or phosphates, but have still followed the directions for neozeo to the letter. Should I go ahead and move into the second phase early with the biofuel? Will that make the problem worse?
 
I myself have stopped dosing MB7 & Bio Fuel . I am trying to get the brown/black film under control . It's annoying on an acrylic tank with a blue back . It loves the back pane and the pumps. It is not in the sump at all . I am pleased to say this is working for me .
I removed the carbon and polyp extension has increased .
I still dose the other products at the rate I posted earlier .

Austin93 I have read about the white film and it is usually seen with Vodka dosing or the VSV . (too much of a certain bacteria ) a bloom .
.I don't know if you evaluated your tank but based on your description and the tests .I would go with a low nutrient tank dosing rate with a even lower dosage .
I know you want to stay on schedule but the only advice I can offer is stop for a few days until you like what you see . Then proceed with the biofuel with a lower dossage of the MB7 .
 
Sounds good, I will start adding the biofuel tonight. Probably go with .5 ml of each mb7 and bf to see what happens. I made another trip to lowes last night and bought some more parts for the improved reactor. I could make about 4 of these easily with the parts I have now. We will see how this works out and I will post pix soon.
 
Another update, I started dosing 3 drops each of rbf and mb7. I also finished the reactor. Good enough anyway. I had a really nice one, but got mad when I cracked a piece then flew into a tissy and smashed it into bits. Very mature I know. It works better then the first version. I will post pix if anyone wants to see it in action. Nothing fancy, just white pvc and a pumper.
 
Here is the complete testing for the first 6 weeks of my neozeo. The results were all provided by a laboratory and not a hobby grade test kit.

Before NeoZeo:
NO3: 7.41 ppm
NH3: 0.28 ppm
PO4: <0.01 ppm

After Week #1:
NO3: 6.51 ppm
NH3: 0.11 ppm
PO4: 0.01 ppm (Phosphates raised a little because I removed the phosban)

After Week #2:
NO3: 6.71 ppm
NH3: 0.12 ppm
PO4: <0.01 ppm (Phosphates went back down)

After Week #3:
NO3: 6.13 ppm
NH3: 0.15 ppm
PO4: <0.01 ppm

After Week #4:
NO3: 6.67 ppm
NH3: 0.14 ppm
PO4: <0.01 ppm

After Week #5:
NO3: 6.85 ppm
NH3: 0.10 ppm
PO4: <0.01 ppm

My tank is doing good but I must say its all softies/LPS with a couple RBTA. Maybe thats why the nitrates wont go down any further. I do also use a filter sock and a sponge between my refugium and my return pump to keep the cheato from spreading into the tank. During the start of the third week I started to dose Koral Color but I got some algea/cyano and stopped dosing. The algea went away and I see just some on the glass every few days now. I used to have to clean my tank glass every day and now it seems to be every 2-3 days so its working in my opinion. But the lab results don't seem to show much change in the tank. I just thought I would share with you guys :)
 
Thanks for posting the results, but it doesn't look like much improvement by the stats. What other changes have you noticed?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14653100#post14653100 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by austin93
Thanks for posting the results, but it doesn't look like much improvement by the stats. What other changes have you noticed?

I agree it doesn't show much but my tank has No cyano and No diatoms on the sand anymore. I don't have to clean the glass as much either. I used to have to clean the glass daily. What may have happened is the cyano died when the MicroBacter7 used up all the nutrients and that is why there does not seem to be a change in NH3 or NO3. These tests were run on a highly accuracte instrument and that is why they are reporting small amounts. A hobby test kit is going to show a reading of 0. My tank looks very clean now.

I dont have any SPS though but prior to starting neozeo I had a birdsnest and a stylo that were overcome by the cyano. I am hoping in the next couple months to be able to add another birdsnest.

I want to start dosing some of the amino acids, koral color, replenish and Vit C eventually. I think I will start with the Koral color again and see how it works now. I know this is mostly used in tanks for SPS but here is an example of an LPS/Softie tank that seems to be benefiting. I do notice from the testing that the ammonia did decrease and stayed lower than it was prior to starting neo zeo. I will continue to do my weekly testing since its free for me. I work at the lab, hehe. I'll take some recent pictures of my tank and post them for you to see also.
 
Do you folks know specifically what is recommended for 'color' supplementation?

Does the amino acid work?

Thanks
 
Nanz, thanks for the follow up. I guess that empirical evidence is what's most important and why they generally don't give very specific directions for dosing. They just say to make changes as needed. I too have noticed less cyano (still some hiding behind the rockwork in low flow areas) but am having a hard time with the white cottony (sp.) stuff all over the glass. I believe it to be bacteria and have made some dosing changes. I have went from 2 ml to about .5 ml of mb7 and about .5ml of biofuel. Does anyone think that maybe this is due to a lack of nutrients? Maybe I should start dosing amino acids a little earlier. I am on my 3rd week, but started with no detectable trates or phates.

Wind, I think that the general agreement is you need to add Amino Acids, Potassium, and Vitamin C. Someone correct me if I am wrong, as I am going to be adding these into the tank in that order very soon. Probably do a week of each and note the results (more empirical data) before adding the next.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14662509#post14662509 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by austin93
Nanz, thanks for the follow up. I guess that empirical evidence is what's most important and why they generally don't give very specific directions for dosing. They just say to make changes as needed. I too have noticed less cyano (still some hiding behind the rockwork in low flow areas) but am having a hard time with the white cottony (sp.) stuff all over the glass. I believe it to be bacteria and have made some dosing changes. I have went from 2 ml to about .5 ml of mb7 and about .5ml of biofuel. Does anyone think that maybe this is due to a lack of nutrients? Maybe I should start dosing amino acids a little earlier. I am on my 3rd week, but started with no detectable trates or phates.

Wind, I think that the general agreement is you need to add Amino Acids, Potassium, and Vitamin C. Someone correct me if I am wrong, as I am going to be adding these into the tank in that order very soon. Probably do a week of each and note the results (more empirical data) before adding the next.

Vitamin C for corals? I agree it would be a great supplement change for my fish, afterall I've used ZOECON/SELCON from time to time. So I can see that. But to attach VIT C to coral color?

hehe. Not too sure. Then again, I'm just saying. It's one of those, it doesn't hurt to try type of deal.

I agree with one thing. A nice water change creates a lot of betterment. polyp extension, etc.
 
Sorry you didn't like the answer. If you aren't willing to be a little more open minded maybe you should rethink this line of products. ULN systems aren't for everyone they are not really mainstream. Waterchanges and general good husbandry will make for a nice tank. Good luck with whichever way you decide to go. I'm going to keep with my plan. If I don't get the results I am looking for, then I will look into a more aggressive system like zeovit. If you read through this thread you will find a link somewhere that provides you with a pdf of the manual for neozeo. I suggest you read it first before questioning the answers that were provided to help you out. There is a lot of info in this thread. Good luck.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14662918#post14662918 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Wind
Vitamin C for corals? I agree it would be a great supplement change for my fish, afterall I've used ZOECON/SELCON from time to time. So I can see that. But to attach VIT C to coral color?

hehe. Not too sure. Then again, I'm just saying. It's one of those, it doesn't hurt to try type of deal.

I agree with one thing. A nice water change creates a lot of betterment. polyp extension, etc.

I believe if you search back, "chewbacca" asked Chris Brightwell himself, if you could only afford two supplements what would they be and I believe Vitamarin C was one them.....either way it's there for a reason.
 
The pdf provides instructions for the beginning stages of the system and the bottles are more for after a uln state has been established. At least that is what I have been following for my dosing.
 
austin93,

I am just genuinely surprised. I have browsed the thread which is why I am more curious regarding this. However, I don't think I will go with the reactor route, just some of the products to give it a shot.

You have to keep in mind though, that this too is an experiment for people. Which is why people are optimistic, yet doubtful in respects.

I am not afraid to try and so I personally wanted to seek some additives for my tank, which lead me to this.

I'm not discrediting anything.

I plan on picking up a few products, dosing them and monitoring. The pictures of others have had 'great' results, so who knows. Maybe I'll go the full yard with this.

Thanks
 
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