Brook or velvet?

sfsuphysics

Active member
1. How old is this aquarium?
Many years, 6+

2. If less than six months old, what is ammonia level?
n/a

3. What is SG of this aquarium? How measured?
1.026 as measured last water change via refractometer

4. When was the last fish added to this aquarium?
Approximately 1 month + 1 week ago

5. Was it quarantined? If so, how? And how long? Was it prophylactically treated? How?
Unfortunately no. I turned a valve that connected the two tanks, and forgot it was turned after adding the fish.

6. If you are using a copper based medication, which one? How often do you measure level? When?

7. If you are using hyposalinity, how did you calibrate your refractometer?

n/a

8. Please describe in detail, the appearance of the fish? If there is one or more pimples, are they lumpy? What color?
Added ~ 1 dozen baby clownfish (and one older one) to an anemone tank, that later found was connected to main tank. All clowns except the adult one went to the anemones. Older one stayed away, it was a percula others were occellaris didn't think much of it, within a day or two it jumped out the top and was found as dried husk on floor in morning. A few days later I saw a dead fish on the bottom of the tank, then another a day after, then stopped seeing it, every now and then I'd see one clown swimming away from the anemones. Just figured there were a dozen clownfish but only 2 dozen anemone maybe some were greedy and kicked the others out. Then I noticed a bunch less fish came out to eat when I fed. Over this weekend I decided to pull out the fish assuming they were be preyed upon, perhaps a bristle worm or something I just couldn't see in the tank. Tossed them into a coral only frag tank (this one I know is isolated). The first one looked quite pale fins a bit ragged with white stuff, went to get the other one, by the time I fished him out and tossed him in the first one was sucked against a vortech, the other one didn't look bad at all Next day it was dead on the sand, much paler than it was.

Meanwhile in the main tank, a couple weeks ago, noticed my flame tipped tang was significantly more pale. He would come out to eat, but for the most part he was much more reclusive hiding in the rocks. a few days later he looked like some of the grey was coming back, but then a couple days after he was dead, again on the bottom of the tank. Also lost a couple talbot damsels, only found one as it was against the vortech pump.

Latest victim of this malady is my tomato clownfish which is probably in the range of 10-14 years old (I don't remember when I started this hobby, I want to say 1999 -2001, but this was my first fish. Had white crap on him, lots of white spots, almost a mucus coating, then today I noticed he looked considerably better than he did the past couple days, still pretty damn horrible but better than he was.

Here's the best picture I could get from top down
zt7k.jpg



9. Please describe the behavior of the fish as best you can. Is it acting reclusive? Is it always up towards the top of the aquarium? Is it avoiding light? How active is the fish?
Sticking to the tomato clown above, the past couple days I noticed it was as far away from the anemone as possible in the upper corner of the tank. However last night it went back to the anemone and stayed in that general area. Can't really put my finger on activity since she has always been a homebody and loves herself some anemone, except when food time comes.

10. Is the fish eating? What?
Unsure, I have an auto-feeder on the tank, and I usually don't notice when food gets dumped in. I fed some flakes, Ocean's Nutrition Formula One & Two mixture. She wasn't as active as normal, she did make a move towards some food but unsure if she actually ate it.

Got 2 other fish in the tank, 180g tank, a yellow tang and a foxface, both of whom look perfectly fat and healthy and more than happily went after all the food I put in the tank. Of course both are yellow, so any white might be hard to see, but considering how bad it was on the other tomato clown I think I would notice it somewhat.

Currently mixing up a 29g hospital tank, got freshwater warmed up ready for a FW dip as soon as I nail down exactly what it is and how to treat it. Some locals told me Formalin (which unfortunately have also been told isn't available in California due to it's classification as a carcinogen) and Chloroquine phosphate, which might be difficult to come by in a quick manner. Either way, I'm going to make petco run in an hour or so and see what they have there. Thinking about pulling out the 4' long 55g acrylic tank for the larger fish (tang and foxface) and isolating them and just draining the 180g completely, or at the very least turning off power to all heaters, lights, etc. I have corals but I'll just toss them in the frag tank.
 
Based mostly on the pic, I would say you are probably dealing with either Ich or Velvet. Cupramine (in a quarantine tank) treats both.

If this was Brook, you should be seeing the skin look as though it's peeling/sloughing off the clown.
 
regardless of what it is, I'm assuming good practice is to assume all the fish in the tank have it regardless of the symptoms and treat them all?
 
regardless of what it is, I'm assuming good practice is to assume all the fish in the tank have it regardless of the symptoms and treat them all?

Yes. Although clownfish seem most susceptible to Brook; all fish get Ich/Velvet. Either way, I would QT all your fish that share water with the infected and go fallow in any tank affected by this.
 
Ok, so other than "herbal remedies" that seem to be out there, I managed to get a product called "Rid Ich plus" made by Kordon I read on here that it contains the formalin that can hopefully help kill things. Although the directions are confusing, do I use this as a dip solution? Or do I treat the hospital tank with it? Or did I waste my money on this product?

If I use this on the hospital tank 1) will it kill stuff in the water column as well, in which case can I use tank water to fill up a hospital tank? 2) will this absorb into any dry rock I have lying around like copper will? Making it forever unusable in a reef tank.
 
Have you determined whether or not this is Brook? Formalin treats Brook (as a dip/bath), but will not successfully eradicate Ich/Velvet. I wouldn't use formalin in a QT, as it will rapidly deplete the tank of oxygen.
 
Have no idea, which is why I posted here, apparently most people are already away on their long Thanksgiving holiday though :)

Looking at the bottom it does say it treats Amyloodinium as well as Cryptocaryon, now it could be the company is flat out lying. But it's what I have to go by.
 
Have no idea, which is why I posted here, apparently most people are already away on their long Thanksgiving holiday though :)

Looking at the bottom it does say it treats Amyloodinium as well as Cryptocaryon, now it could be the company is flat out lying. But it's what I have to go by.

I looked up the active ingredients and here's what I found directly off of Kordon's website:

Contains formaldehyde (11.52% formalin) U.S. P. grade 4.26% and premium quality aquaculture-grade zinc-free chloride salt of malachite green 0.038%.

The formaldehyde is the only component that has any medicinal properties. Formaldehyde is used to treat Brook and may provide some temporary relief for Velvet. But it won't completely eradicate Ich/Velvet.

Even still, whether or not it contains enough formaldehyde to do the job is questionable since 37% formaldehyde is the standard for successfully treating Brook.

Not trying to bash this product, but just telling you what has been proven to work and what has not.
 
Back
Top