brown on polyps?

lolgranny

The DQ King
Polpys open during the day, but its almost as the polyps are getting brown on the base of them.

Tanks all in check so im not sure what it is.

They are in a full blown sps tank, nothing has been added for over 6monthsthe along with these polyps
 
Sorry haha!

Is the brown on the polyps normal? Its not cyano. Its more like a brown slime /green slime. Do I have to worry about this

I have a 100+ polyp colony of lunar eclipse 's and some have brown crap on them granted they still look good and done seem like they are doing bad but I also have a 20pcolony of darth mauls which close at night and have the same alge on them but look like they aren't doing as well. Should I take a toothbrush and scrub them? I baste them with a turkey baster and nothing blows off
 
Oh, ok...
I wouldn't touch them with the toothbrush or similar yet.
Try to deal with the algae controlling your water parameters.
The extreme can be treated with hydrogen peroxide dips, but you should avoid the treatment and try to deal with the water chemistry first.

If you dip or use the brush on the zoas without making sure the chemistry is taken care of, the algae will come back!

Good luck!
Grandis.
 
Makes sense as any other tank. Its a full blown sps tank which everything is thriving. Some cyano but I haven't been able to beat that in 2moths as of yet. Po4 is at 0.06 and I know that's the issue. I've raised gfo and keep up with reg water changes. Tanks over stocked I need to get my 180g up but im finishing my floor before I put water in it.

I've debated vodka dosing as of now

Oh, ok...
I wouldn't touch them with the toothbrush or similar yet.
Try to deal with the algae controlling your water parameters.
The extreme can be treated with hydrogen peroxide dips, but you should avoid the treatment and try to deal with the water chemistry first.

If you dip or use the brush on the zoas without making sure the chemistry is taken care of, the algae will come back!

Good luck!
Grandis.
 
Well, my opinion, as aways...
Stop the GFO now because you can deal with phosphates without it!
I would remove all the GFO from the system!
Take care of the water chemistry for phosphates filtering the fresh water and so...
Keep the partial water changes as regular maintenance.
Take your time... The cianos will go away with the time also.
You need to reach chemical balance and stability of your system.

Please don't think it's going to be a fast move and all done tomorrow.
:thumbsup:

Wait for others to answer with their thoughts.

Good luck,
Grandis.
 
What he is saying is that the gfo is kinda like a band-aid it might fix ur phosphate problem but the underlying causes why its there in the first place are still there. Make sence? But i wouldent say to stop using it just try to figure out why u need to use it.
 
Just because of the GFO presence in the system.
Like I've said before, if some had problems with SPS bleaching...

Many people have problems with zoas and GFO could be the case many times.
It's what GFO is suppose to do, besides binding phosphates.
It also binds organics, precipitates CaCO2 and therefore can cause biological effects, like stress, tissue recession and bleaching.
The "fast" loss of alkalinity and the binding of organics is what I believe should be the main reasons to quit the use of GFO in reef tanks.

Now, when you remove the GFO you should be close to the water params and make sure the input of phosphates are minimized immediately. Hope you know that. Other wise there is a possibility of an algae bloom for obvious reasons.

Others will say I'm crazy, but...
Well, try to see what happens...
Just try.

Hope many understand my point of view.

Have fun!:thumbsup:

Grandis.
 
What he is saying is that the gfo is kinda like a band-aid it might fix ur phosphate problem but the underlying causes why its there in the first place are still there. Make sence? But i wouldent say to stop using it just try to figure out why u need to use it.

Well, it could be used, IMO, to avoid a greater loss.
Say, at the last resort.

I'm sorry, I don't want to create a debate here.
I've exposed my point of view.
And... we are talking about zoas too.

Others will post... I'll be reading. :reading:

Grandis.
 
Just because of the GFO presence in the system.
Like I've said before, if some had problems with SPS bleaching...

Many people have problems with zoas and GFO could be the case many times.
It's what GFO is suppose to do, besides binding phosphates.
It also binds organics, precipitates CaCO2 and therefore can cause biological effects, like stress, tissue recession and bleaching.
The "fast" loss of alkalinity and the binding of organics is what I believe should be the main reasons to quit the use of GFO in reef tanks.

Grandis.

This is the first time I have read about -'ve effects of GFO in a tank. Need to read more about as I was going to setup a reactor on my tank very soon. I am a avid zoa freak and I hate to add something to my setup that would mess up the chemistry.
 
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That's the tank. I wont remove the gfo bc I dont think that's the issue. I think it has to do more with flow or the lighting they are in.

Where are you guys keeping your darth maul / magician palys at? They open and seem happy just look like they are having a film algae on the base /neck of them which puts me in concern
 
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