Bryopsis? Help!
- Thread starter simpp88
- Start date
heathlindner25
New member
I really hate that algae...if it were me I would cook the rocks and start over.
If you have nothing in the tank, i would give the tech m a try, i recently was fed up with the stuff, but i have a full reef tank, so i was a bit apprehensive at first to try it, but finally did. Within three days 90% was gone and after a week theres nothing left. I have roughly 75g of water volume in the tank (90g minus rocks and sand) and dosed 350ml a day for three days, i spread it over 4 doses in 4 hours, after day 3 i added 50ml a day, on day 7 and 8 i did the 350ml doses again for the stubborn stuff and then 50ml the next day. If you have nothing in the tank, i would say you can up the dosage, watch it melt off, leave it spiked and keep adding for a few weeks and then do a couple water changes and run carbon. If that doesn't work i would try another method at that point, as you don't want this in your tank, it is the biggest paint i've dealt with. hydroids, any other type of algae, aptaisia, even a fish i had to tear apart my display to catch i'd rather deal with than this stuff again.
Just for reference, here is day 1.
And here is a shot after roughly 10 days. I just realized looking at the photo that my dersa fell over, lol, someone has been digging around him.
Nothing was changed besides dosing the tech m. No water changes, didn't pull any algae out, did not touch the tank besides feeding and moving a few corals. I did noticed it ****ed off the leather and my duncan coral a bit, and my birds nest but nothing else was effected in the tank.
And here is a shot after roughly 10 days. I just realized looking at the photo that my dersa fell over, lol, someone has been digging around him.
Nothing was changed besides dosing the tech m. No water changes, didn't pull any algae out, did not touch the tank besides feeding and moving a few corals. I did noticed it ****ed off the leather and my duncan coral a bit, and my birds nest but nothing else was effected in the tank.
Last edited:
heathlindner25
New member
Just for reference, here is day 1.
And here is a shot after roughly 10 days. I just realized looking at the photo that my dersa fell over, lol, someone has been digging around him.
Nothing was changed besides dosing the tech m. No water changes, didn't pull any algae out, did not touch the tank besides feeding and moving a few corals. I did noticed it ****ed off the leather and my duncan coral a bit, and my birds nest but nothing else was effected in the tank.
The toadstool looks ****ed and the monti's bleached,unless the lighting somehow changed. the feather duster also looks happier in the first picture.
i didn't monitor the exact level as i don't believe its the mag itself that does it. i checked it once to make sure my measurements were correct and didn't want to go over 100ppm a day, it raised it roughly 80-100ppm a day for the 350ml doses, i started at 1550ppm mag, so if i had to guess, assuming there wasn't much of a drop over the next week, i'm probably around 1950-2050ppm mag right now, give or take.
Reef Frog
New member
That looks more like an up & running (young) display tank. Physical removal, a hydrogen peroxide treatment & GFO is the way to go IMO. BTW I can't confirm its bryopsis from those pics - a good close up would confirm it.
If you're talking about just a tank or tub of live rock with no coral, bleaching the rock will be the best method. If done right it will zap the bryopsis completely. Forget the Tech M in this case. Keep in mind that bigB can hitch hike in on a clam shell, frag plug, exposed coral skeleton, perhaps a snail or hermit shell & equipment like pumps. It can also come in on sand & possibly water from an infected tank. You'll never have a better chance to avoid it than in the beginning. Good luck.
If you're talking about just a tank or tub of live rock with no coral, bleaching the rock will be the best method. If done right it will zap the bryopsis completely. Forget the Tech M in this case. Keep in mind that bigB can hitch hike in on a clam shell, frag plug, exposed coral skeleton, perhaps a snail or hermit shell & equipment like pumps. It can also come in on sand & possibly water from an infected tank. You'll never have a better chance to avoid it than in the beginning. Good luck.
Yeah, i called the toad a leather, him and the duncan were ****ed off, along with any softies in the tank, the worm is also unhappy, forgot about him, there is a large water change scheduled for today. Monties aren't bleached, thats a whites only pic and its junk trying to get a good pic with an iPhone. This was also after about 2 minutes of my lights being on, so the toad wasn't fully extended, he's actually a happy camper today.
I've confirmed it quite a few times, i'm not the original poster though. Sorry for any confusion, i wanted to use the tank as an example of it working. I did to hydrogen peroxide as well, either pulling the rock and basting it, in tank treatments, you can probably see from my other posts, but it came back. While one week is by no means a win yet, i did show positive results with the kent tech m.
davocean
Active member
I've had great success using Tech M on my own tanks and a few I took care of.
I would begin raising mag level using that source of mag, maybe 1500-1700, slowly of course, you might not even get it as high as intended before you start seeing bryopsis begin to fade.
If that does not work then I would start thinking of more serious and invasive measures.
I would begin raising mag level using that source of mag, maybe 1500-1700, slowly of course, you might not even get it as high as intended before you start seeing bryopsis begin to fade.
If that does not work then I would start thinking of more serious and invasive measures.
