Bryopsis Survey

rick s

Premium Member
Bryopsis Survey

Are there any clubs, regions of the country, groups of peoples tanks, etc. that have never had Bryopsis algae?

Many tanks in our immediate club have this dreaded pest and I am wondering if it is a worldwide nuisance, or if it came in on one coral and we have unknowingly past it amongst ourselves when swapping frags.

Again, it would be interesting to know if there are geographic “groups” out there that have never had this pest. If there are, maybe you’re doing something differently than we are.

My goal is to learn more about Bryopsis because when I set up my next tank, if there’s anything specific I can do to never introduce it, I’d really like to know what that is.

This is Bryopsis:

Bryopsis.jpg
 
"Cook" your rock.
I think it was about 4 or 5 years ago that the bryopsis had gotten so bad that it was time for me to just quit the hobby.

Then the wonders of "Cooking" rock came about.
I did it, it was a huge PITA because I had a LOT of rock in my 180.
After 6 weeks, I was finished.

I have not had a SINGLE strand of hair algae since.

In fact, when I receive frags that have some on it, over a week or two, it slowly receeds and whithers away to nothing. :)
 
Thanks Sean. I’m glad you had success with cooking the rock. It’s good to know that cooking it killed it.

But, if any of our members introduce a single strand into our tanks, it takes hold and spreads like wildfire. You said that even if you introduce new frags that have it on them into your tank now, it just withers away. I can understand that cooking the rock killed it all, but why doesn’t new Bryopsis take hold in your tank? That’s the magic piece to the puzzle that I’d like to find.

Did you change anything else when you cooked the rock? Additives, chemicals, foods, procedures, equipment, lighting?
 
i dont know what i did but i used to have bropsis all over. now it only grows on plastic in the tank, filter intake and over flow, and powerheads. i dont mind it so much as its a great place for pods to grow and my fish nip at it all the time. plus i thinks it kinda looks neat.
 
I have horrible hair algae. But not bryopsis. I wish I did have bryopsis, because it is something my lovely seaslugs love.
 
Bryopsis is similar to corallines in the fact that if you don't introduce the algae into your aquarium you can't have it grow in your aquarium. Fortunately, Bryopsis growth can be limited by environmental controls and herbivores.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14263485#post14263485 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rick s
Thanks Sean. I’m glad you had success with cooking the rock. It’s good to know that cooking it killed it.
You may have misuderstood.
"Cooking" didn't kill bryopsis.
"Cooking" deprives it of its food source, ergo it can not survive.
 
The term, "Cooking" is often misunderstood...no heat and pots are used. :)

Here are the instructions.


Originally posted</a> by SeanT
The purpose of "cooking" your rocks is to have the bacteria consume all (or as much) organic material and PO4 stored on, and in, the rock as possible.

The new environment you are creating for your rock is to take it from an algal driven to a bacterial driven system.
In order to do this, the rock needs to be in total darkness to retard and eventually kill the algae's on the rock and to give the bacteria time to do the job.

So basically you need tubs to hold the rock.

Equipment needed.
1. Dedication.
2. Tubs to cook rock in. And an equal amount of tubs to hold the rock during waterchanges.
3. A few powerheads.
4. Plenty of buckets.
5. A smug feeling of superiority that you are taking it to "the next level."
6. Saltwater, enough made up to follow the instructions below and to replenish your tank after removing rocks.
Here are the steps:

1. Get into your head and accept the fact you will be making lots of salt water if you aren't lucky enough to have access to filtered NSW.
2. Explain to significant other what is going on so they don't flip out. This process can take up to 2 months. Prepare them in advance so he/she can mark it on the calendar and that they won't nag about it until that date arrives.
3. Setup a tub(s) where the rock is to be cooked. Garages are great for this.
4. Make up enough water to fill tub(s) about halfway and around 5-7 buckets about 60% full.
5. Remove all the rock you want to cook at this stage. (The rock can be removed piece by piece until you are done.) I suggest shutting off the circulation beforehand to minimize dust storms.
6. Take the first piece of rock and dunk it, swish it, very, very well in the first bucket. Then do it again in the 2nd bucket, then the third.
7. Place rock in the tub.
8. Repeat steps 6 & 7 to every piece of rock you want to cook at this time. The reason I suggested 5-7 buckets of water will be evident quickly...as the water quickly turns brown.
9. Place powerhead(s) in the tub and plug in. Position at least one powerhead so that it agitates the surface of the water pretty well. This is to keep the water oxygenated. You can use an air pump for additional oxygenation if you wish. Only one powerhead per tub is needed. Remember the powerheads main responsibility is the oxygenation of the water.
10. Cover the tub. Remember, we want TOTAL darkness.
11. Empty out buckets, restart circulation on main tank.
12. Wait.
13. During the first couple of weeks it is recommended to do a swishing and dunking of the rocks twice a week.
What this entails is to make up enough water to fill up those buckets and the tub the rock is in.
First, lay out your empty tub(s) and fill buckets the same as before.
Then, uncover tub with the rock in it. Take a rock and swish it in the tub it's in to knock any easy to get off junk.
Then, swish it thru the 3 buckets again, and place in the empty tub..
Repeat for all your rocks.
Then empty the tub that all the rocks were cooking in, take it outside and rinse it out with a hose.
Place tub back where it was, fill with new saltwater, add rocks and powerheads, and cover.
Wait again until the next water change.
You will be utterly amazed at how much sand, silt, detritus is at the bottom of the tub and every bucket. It is amazing.
At times the stench was so strong I gagged.

How it works:

Some FAQ's.
When re-introducing the rock to my tank, a month or two from now, should I do that in parts to help minimize any cycling effect(s)...if there are any?
I never have. Really after a very short while, the ammonium cycle has been established. That's not what you're worry about though, it's the stored phosphates and that you have to wait it out.
When they are producing very little detritus - you'll know - then I would use them all at once.

Would running Carbon filtration and/or a PO4 reducing media help/hurry/hinder the process?
I wouldn't fool with it. You don't want the detritus to sit there long enough to rot, release water soluble P again. You want to take it out while it's still locked up in that bacterial detritus.

And a few last minute tidbits I remembered.
Your coralline will die back, recede etc.
My thoughts on this are GREAT!
Now my rock is more porous for additional pods, mysids, worms etc.
Coralline will grow back.
Throughout this process the sponges, and pods on my rock have not died off.
Every time I do a water change they are there and plentiful.
 
bryopsis often hitch hikes on fresh live rock and there wont be any visable signs (quality fresh liverock rarely has any visable algae on it). its not until after cycling it will often begin to show up. thats how I ended up with it. I hadn't added any corals or rock. elevated Mg via Kent Tech M and low nutrients does a pretty good job of getting rid of it. low nutrients keeps it from growing in bushes but it wont keep it from growing in strands here and there. Mg just plain kills it. I've had saltwater aquariums since the mid 90's and this set up started last year is the first time I've ever had bryopsis. matter of fact I was dealing with it for 4 or 5 months before I ID'd it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14266545#post14266545 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Atomikk
That is a lot of work (cooking rock). That would be my last measure, as I have beaten Bryopsis using better methods.

The new me doesn't engage in flaming, I have found my zen :) , so I will calmly point out your flaws.
You are stating that to rid onesself of bryopsis a reefer should...

Elevating your Magnesium, which in your words "it can have a very negative effect on your tank’s inhabitants."

Elevating your alkalinity, which I know from first hand knowledge can be detrimental to SPS.

Purchasing a Phosphate Reactor (which requires maintenance and refills).

Purchasing or DIY a Kalkawasser reactor (maintenance and refills, and which the prior evidence of it binding to PO4 is now being called into evidence).

Purchase a couple of Long Spine Urchins (Diadema Savignyi), (which may, or may not, consume some of the bryopsis while leaving the SOURCE of the algae alone and can create havoc in your tank by knocking frags over etc.).

Changing your lights to 20k bulbs. (what does light have to do with algae??? Other than the absence of all light will make it retreat until the light resumes and its food source is still there).

(Purchase) rabbitfish (Siganus) and/or tangs (Naso) (more unecessary livestock).

Then you say...

9. Take out the rock(s) that has the bryopsis, and soak it in RO/DI water (killing ALL marine life on it). Do this for a period of 2-3 weeks. Change the water every 3-4 days, as the water will remove all phosphates from the rock. Make sure you have a powerhead to move the water in the container with the rock(s).
This, without the darkness and saltwater. sounds like mini-"cooking".

Seriously though, how do ALL THOSE STEPS, in any way, seem like LESS WORK than the PROPER WAY?

"Cook" your rock, remove the algaes source of food, phosphates!
Don't buy uneeded equipment.
Don't buy animals you do not want.
No reason to.

Sean
 
I have an aggressive FOWLR tank that is GHA monster. With no crabs or snails it has just taken over, and I mean taken over.

I'm thinking of removing the rock and using my pressure washer to blast it off. Would you not want to do that before cooking ?

I guess a FW pressure of water will kill most life ? Think I should cook it afterwards ?
 
Just take it out and brush the algae off with a hard bristle brush, swish it in saltwater and begin "cooking" it per instructions.
The one thing I try to get people to understand is that you are NOT trying to get rid of the algae, you are trying to get rid of the phosphates in the rock itself.

No algae + PO4 = Algae :(

No PO4 = No Algae :)
 
Sean, I like to discuss things rather to point out people's 'flaws'. My post was not intended to flame your post, as it was all in my own opinion.

That said.. breaking down a tank just to take out rock is really the last measure that a reefer will assume. Ignoring that fact is just silly. The methodical guide was supposed to be performed out one step at a time, with patience. SO by you pointing out things like 'purchase' and such is really unnecessary.

The reason why I even wrote that article (for the most part) is because of how I beat bryopsis. I didn't have a patch, I had an infestation. This guide isn't something that is theoretical, rather factual in practise.

I know for certain that I have helped many reefers using my methods. And if that bothers you, I am sorry.

I still feel that 'cooking' rock is a reefers last measure.
 
Use Marine SAT and pull the algae out after a few weeks. The SAT stops growth of the Bryopsis. I also run phosphate remover in the tank and the phosphate is almost 0 in my tank.
 
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