Bubble Trap Box Idea (Questions)

Ooookay,,, I’ll put that on my to-do list. If it makes a difference the water goes though a filter-pad before hitting the rocks. I thought the rocks would work well for “spreading” out the water for improved gas exchange.
 
nick,
what you have is a wet/dry filter. im not against wet/dry but, if you are going to have one, bio balls will do just as well.
 
The bubble trap is all glued up and ready to go. I was able to move the last under baffle to give the most distance possible from the over baffle. I’ll be installing it tonight and testing it out. Also I wanted to report that the “lexan silicon” seems to hold VERY strong. I did a pull test on the 1st parts I glued up and they felt very solid. I hope it holds up this well once submerged.

Stay tuned for more!
 
I'll have some tonight once I take all the clamps off. I'll see if I can get a pic of it working also...
 
Here’s the trap all ready to go…

bubble9.jpg


bubble10.jpg


The U-O-U configuration worked like a charm. From this pic you can see the bubbles from the skimmer at the surface while none are making it under the 1st baffle.

bubble11.jpg


I think just the fact that the return from the skimmer and the fuge are now NOT right next to the return pump made a huge difference.

Here’s the tank before the box was used:

bubble5.jpg


And here’s the after:

bubble12.jpg


bubble13.jpg


It’s too soon to tell if all of the bubbles are being blocked, but there is a definite improvement so far!

Thanks again for everyone’s input!
 
Thanks Douggie! My experience with building RC airplanes is coming in handy with this hobby. I'm just happy it appears to have worked.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9293370#post9293370 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NickBee
Thanks Douggie! My experience with building RC airplanes is coming in handy with this hobby. I'm just happy it appears to have worked.

my buds into the helicopters as well as the planes but mostly helicopters. anyways i showed him your magnet set up. he wants to know if you made that or bought it if so, where.
 
Looks great NickBee! Glad to see that it works. Do you find that there is enough space for evaporation in the trap so you don't have to constantly put water back in?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9293682#post9293682 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NickBee
here's a post on how I made the table:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5072346/anchors_5072346/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#5072346

And this is where I got the fixtures from:

http://www.airfieldmodels.com/infor...ic_building_board/order_magnetic_fixtures.htm

Good articles on that site about building with magnets... It’s good to see some things I love about my other hobby (creating things) are spilling over to this one…

thanks for the info.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9302245#post9302245 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jer77
Looks great NickBee! Glad to see that it works. Do you find that there is enough space for evaporation in the trap so you don't have to constantly put water back in?

Jer,

This was something I did not understand when you guys were warning me about this. The level of the bubble trap box stays constant with the level of the sump minus about a quarter inch due to the suction of the pump. It seems like the level goes down everywhere (including the space outside the box) evenly. With that consideration the level can go down in the whole sump about 2” before it’s below the Over baffle. It should be easy enough to maintain (Unless I’m missing something)…
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9281409#post9281409 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lakee911
If I may hijack for a moment.... I've often wondered, Bean and Keelay, what would happen if one had left right left (or right left right) baffles? The water would move from side to side at a constant speed (if you had constant spacing). If you can not get easy bubble removal on both the up and down, this would eliminate the up down business all together. :)

I remember a post here on RC(don't have link) for a sump design where someone did exactly what you are mentioning. They made a long 'S' with several switch backs before the return pump. They were trying to make a frag propagation section in the sump. If I remember correctly, they reported it working well for bubble removal.

Be careful here too though. Beans point about more up-down sections in a given space applies here as well. The more narrow you make your channels the faster the water velocity through them. Bubble trapping in a channel depends on the bubbles making to the surface. When the water hits a switchback in the 'S' pattern it will create turbulence. The faster the water the more turbulence. This will reduce the bubble filtering since bubbles that were close to the surface will be pulled back to the bottom in the mix. There is always a balance you have to reach.
 
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