Building Big Bertha: 800G

bbrantley

Premium Member
Howdy all!

Warning: long diatribe explaining my thought process in next few paragraphs. Skip to picture if you don't care about it!

I've spent 9 months cycling my 225G tank and watching lots of coralline grow. I've conquered the hair algae, diatoms, and whatever else. I don't even do a water change more than every 6 weeks or so, but I have almost no bioload and so it's pretty easy. (What have I been doing all this time? Getting sidetracked by surprises and issues having nothing to do with reefkeeping!)

Anyway, I settled into analyzing what the next steps were for finishing out my system and I realized that I just don't have enough room under the tank to put all the equipment, and I'm also pretty picky about noise. I've gone to great lengths to reduce the noise to a tiny gurgle, and that's worked out pretty well. (Replacing fans in my Aquactinics hood, stealing the gated-drain-with-emergency-backup idea for no cavitation or bubbles, going to all Poseidon pumps, etc.) However, I have no room left for Ca, phosphate, or kalk reactors... nor a refugium or proper storage for my RODI and saltwater mix containers.

The first solution I came up with was to use one small, extra room on the lower floor of my house as an equipment room. Unfortunately, that room is clear across the house, the downstairs is a completely-finished half-basement, and there is no easy way to run plumbing and data (for controllers) between the two. It can be done, but my estimates are running into the $12,000 range!

So I got to thinking that maybe an alternative is to convert my only-somewhat-used media room into a fish room. This has several nice advantages: it's on the same floor as the tank, it's literally inches from the tank -- separated only by a 4-inch load-bearing internal wall, and it's much bigger (12 x 17 feet instead of 10 by 7). It also isn't below grade, so adding a drain in the floor may be considerably easier.

Once I started thinking about this possibility, it occurred to me that maybe I could just back my tank up into the theoretical equipment room and have an in-wall display instead! This would make things cleaner, buy me back 12 square feet of space in my living room, and move the last remaining dregs of gurgle noise to behind a nice wall.

And (are you drooling yet?), finally, it occurred to me that the marginal cost of moving to a larger tank at the same time would be a relative "bargain!" :)

So, without further delay, here's what I've got for Bertha so far. First, a rudimentary diagram of the room with the tank laid in:

95961TankDiag.png


Two important things to note right away:

1. The upper wall of the tank faces out into my living room and the left wall faces out into the hallway adjacent to my living room. My entire floor is completely open except for this media room's walls, so you'll be able to see in both sides of the tank from most places in the main room. (I'll add a picture of the room in another post soon.)

2. There's a tiny square on the corner. As awesome as I think it would be to have the aquarium "wrap around" the corner of the room there, my architect friend has already confirmed my fears: that "hole" is a load-bearing pair of 2x4's that hold the entire loft (above the media--er, fish--room) up, so it's not going away.

The tank dimensions work out to around 800 gallons if I assume a 32" height. My current tank is 30" and I don't want to go much higher.

Obstacles and leading questions for you guys who have too much time to spend on these forums: :)
  1. Structural concerns: This tank has to sit on the main floor of my house, underneath which is a fully-finished lower floor/half-basement. For the builders who're reading, the floor is comprised of 12" TJI's at 16" on-center that run vertically in the diagram above. There's a 10-inch steel beam running horizontally directly under the top edge of the tank in that same diagram, so the TJI's span the 17 feet of fish room (which is in the corner of my house.) For reference, I have an 8500-pound fireplace/stove just 10 feet diagonally away from the proposed location of this tank with roughly half the square footage and *three* 8-inch steel beams running in parallel underneath it. I didn't design the house or choose the 8,500-pound stove. :) I also don't expect anyone to tell me the magic answer here, so I'll submit the drawings to my friendly structural engineer and let you know what he comes up with. I suspect what I'll end up doing is quasi-sistering in 2 or 3 steel beams parallel to and between several of the TJI's directly underneath the tank. I will probably also have to reinforce the 10-inch steel beam described above as well as its steel support posts. (Sorry if I'm mangling the technical terms for these construction gadgets; I'm a total rookie when it comes to building houses!)
  2. Water concerns: It's imperative to me that the water in this tank not present a risk to the rest of my house, structurally or any other way. I don't want rotting, flooding, rusting, or anything else. I do have one small luxury with respect to these problems, and that's that I live at about 9,000 feet and it never gets truly hot or humid here. I do not have any active ventilation system in the fish room (or in my house, for that matter) except for windows... there is radiant floor heat and no air-conditioning. I do have two nice windows in the soon-to-be fish room, both on the bottom right corner in that diagram, and I also have the ability to drill holes in my wall to add fans, plumbing, or whatever else I need. I would appreciate initial thoughts on this. For reference, my 225G is fan-cooled and evaporates at an average of about 4 gallons per day -- 7 or 8 if it gets hot in the house. Those gallons don't even begin to affect the dry air in the main "room" of my first floor, at least as far as I can tell. I'd have 3.5 times the surface area on the new tank, but I think I might also have much better temp stability and I'd certainly consider active chilling if needed.
  3. Plumbing concerns: This I also have to work out with my contractor. I'd want plumbing in that room and I'll have to get it through the floor. I think this is relatively easy EXCEPT I want to make the whole thing into a bathtub floor of some sort, so if disaster strikes I do not ruin the rest of my house. I can't really cut corners on this; it's just not worth it if I can't (literally) catch-all failure modes with a bathtub and a drain. (Well, okay, catastrophic failure of the acrylic wouldn't be caught, but I guess I have to have a reason for homeowner's insurance, right?!)
  4. Sound: I'm a little concerned about noise bleeding through the walls. Since I'll have to repanel all the walls anyway (see "water" above), I can add additional soundproofing and bulk up the door to the hallway to cut that down. I am actually more worried about vibrational noise coming through the floor, in fact. This worries me because I can hear one of my Tunze Streams at night in my bedroom directly underneath the tank today. (I haven't been able to figure out why it's noisier; I think it's just a chance resonance thing.) My house is very quiet (remember, no active ventilation... and I live up in the boonies so there are few cars or people) so these things tend to stick out. I'd love to hear people's experience with this challenge.
  5. Dumb question: This silly question just stems from my general inexperience and newbiness. I have a bunch more, but I'll start with one for now: 'm going to have trouble getting to the front corner of the tank unless I can climb on it, because I don't want to have panels that swing up above the tank. Can I get a tank with an acrylic top that's sturdy enough for me to crawl around on? My 3/4" on my 225G is pretty good, though I wouldn't want to have to stand on it!

    [/list=1]
    Thanks for reading the lengthy start to this thread. I hope this will come to fruition; a lot hinges on the plans to mitigate the big three concerns I listed first above.

    Please let me know your thoughts!

    Ben
 
Wow, all quiet on the western front, eh?

I had several conversations with Important People today, including the architect who drew the plans for my house, a structural engineer I've used on other projects, and several acrylic tank builders, including James at Envision Acrylics and my "local" fabricators, Aquatic Design Habitats.

I also started drawing a component diagram with some simple connections. Most of this I already have similarly-plumbed on my existing tank, though with no where near the cleanliness that I'd like to aim for for Bertha. I probably need to add some additional components, too, like a kalk stirrer and maybe a phyto reactor.

95961Tank_Component_Plan-med.png


Now, somebody say something. And a happy 4th of July to you all, too! :)

Ben
 
Can I have it when your done playing with it? :)

Looks like a lot of work you got there.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7680912#post7680912 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 29reef
Can I have it when your done playing with it? :)

Looks like a lot of work you got there.

No problem! You just have to come pick it up. :)

It will definitely be a lot of work. I've never done major home improvement work before, so it's kind of interesting to me even though I know it will be back-breaking and obnoxious after about day 3. I'm going to hire some more experienced helpers to really knock out a lot of the grunt work quickly, because I want my house to return to a maximally-livable state as quickly as possible.

Speaking of the house, here's a shot of my existing tank (propped up on horses before I got the stand last year) that conveniently shows the corner where the two viewing surfaces will be exposed. I've masked them in blue to give a rough idea of what it will look like. Like I mentioned above, it appears the load-bearing post in the very corner will have to remain, so that's why there are two distinct blue rectangles.

normal_TankPositionMock.jpg
 
Nice, and ambitious project!

Sounds like you are going to have to have your architect friend work out a support system below the tank. that's a lot of weight for a wood floor.

Good luck!
 
Bebo, you're right. It's a little intimidating to think about caring for it.

Bax, thanks, and you're also right. The engineer took the whole week off this week, so it'll be later next week before I get some plans and can start planning the construction.

Here's a scale rendering of what it should end up looking like:

normal_BerthaRoom.png


I'm liking this free SketchUp program (Google bought it and they give it away)... it will be helpful to visualize space in the room as I distribute large components, because I have very poor mental visualization skills! I'll throw some of the possibilities in the room later and get your feedback.
 
bbrantley,Here's a scale rendering of what it should end up looking like:

normal_BerthaRoom.png


Is the front right corner of the tank the load bearing wall you were talking about in the begining of the post?
 
Is the front right corner of the tank the load bearing wall you were talking about in the begining of the post? [/B]

Hi Bob, you got it -- that is a load-bearing post for the loft that sits atop that room. Actually, the house drawings seem to indicate that that entire wall is load-bearing, but I'm not sure if that's actually true. Regardless, the huge chunk of wall that'll have to be re-built will need to be pretty sturdy!
 
Were you thinking of having a rectangular tank made with the square section cut out on the corner?

If so, you might consider instead to just make a rectangular tank and have it be 'set back' slightly from each wall - sort of a 'porthole' look. Dressed up well this could look great and would be easier to build and more flexible if (heaven forbid!) you ever need to move it to a new location or sell it.

jayo
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7705086#post7705086 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jayo
Were you thinking of having a rectangular tank made with the square section cut out on the corner?

If so, you might consider instead to just make a rectangular tank and have it be 'set back' slightly from each wall - sort of a 'porthole' look. Dressed up well this could look great and would be easier to build and more flexible if (heaven forbid!) you ever need to move it to a new location or sell it.

jayo

Jayo, you make a very legitimate point about potentially re-use and viability down the road. I've been thinking about that on and off, and I agree that having a more traditional shape would be more sensible in that respect. To your concern about difficulty to build, the folks I've spoken with don't seem concerned about this at all. In fact, it essentially just adds a couple cuts and a couple extra seams... so it probably costs me another $200 to do the "cut-out." (The seams don't have to be polished because they will be hidden behind the walls.) Doing it this way potentially saves a good bit of work and cost involved in rebuilding the walls as well.

The real question is, what's the aesthetic value of having it flush with the wall versus backed off 4-5 inches? I think it's pretty high for me, but it's really tough to say without seeing both... which I doubt I ever will! I'll try adding a scale version of my living room to the sketch and rendering it to scale, set back 4 inches, and see what that looks like.

In any event, thanks for your suggestion. I'll keep a-ponderin'. :)

Ben
 
I just built a sump with a notch in one corner. I simply built the sump, then glued up 2 pieces for the corner, trimmed to fit, glued it in, then had at it with the flush trim bit.

You could always fill the setback ledge with sand, then put some "fake glass" flush with the wall. :lol:

Nice project!
Chris
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7710537#post7710537 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by H20ENG
You could always fill the setback ledge with sand, then put some "fake glass" flush with the wall. :lol:

Ha, ha! I'll, err, keep that one in my back pocket, Chris. :)

Okay, so here's a question for my extensive fan base: I'm trying to figure out a way to have my cake and eat it, too. I use the constricted-overflow approach in my tank today to keep my sump splashing, bubbles, and noise to effectively zero. All I have to do is dial down the gate valve on my primary overflow to the point where the backpressure caused by water in the sump forces water in the overflow box to remain stably above the top of the drain intake.

I should emphasize stably, because this is the real problem: if the water level in the sump fluctuates a bit, the backpressure changes, and the level of the water in the overflow changes to match. If that level goes too low, I start sucking air into the drain and noise ensues. (If it goes too high, the water fills up until it starts falling through the backup drain, which is, of course, unconstricted and super-noisy.) In practice, this now happens only occasionally, since my auto-topoff manages to keep the level reasonably close to the same point all the time. But still...

What I would like to do is use this same noise-killing approach in Bertha, but without the dependency on the height of the water in the sump. I figure the only way I can do this is by raising the bottom of the drain line so that it is NOT in the water at all. Problem is, then I get to listen to at least some splashing, and I might get a lot of excess bubbles to boot. Enter my Dumb Idea:

normal_SumpPlan.png


I figure maybe I can come up with a way to spread the draining water out a bit and have it dump onto the top edge of this pink angled acrylic sheet. Then I end up with more a nice, quiet(er) laminar flow that smoothly sheets down into the sump's water level. I'm sure somebody has done something like this before, so tell me if you think this makes any sense (and what you'd do differently).
 
If your sump is setup so that the drain portion is compartmentalized, that portions' level will never change regardless of the topoff level. You can even use a bucket or a large piece of pipe as long as its higher than the rest of the sumps water level.

That said, your PINK:D baffle (which is very, umm, "sensitive", BTW :lol: ) WILL quiet your flow a bit. This is used in the HOB Deltec skimmer to quiet the flow.
HTH
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7715897#post7715897 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by H20ENG
If your sump is setup so that the drain portion is compartmentalized, that portions' level will never change regardless of the topoff level. You can even use a bucket or a large piece of pipe as long as its higher than the rest of the sumps water level.

That said, your PINK:D baffle (which is very, umm, "sensitive", BTW :lol: ) WILL quiet your flow a bit. This is used in the HOB Deltec skimmer to quiet the flow.
HTH

Thank you for these insightful comments. Especially the one about my special pink baffle. Now I know what colors to pick in my future renderings. :)

You know, it seems so obvious now that you mention it. I can achieve the same "sheeting" effect simply by sticking the drain in a tall cylinder. This allows more flexibility and keeps me from having to engineer a way to spread the water from the drainpipe out, too. How depressingly obvious, now that you mention it. :rolleyes:

Thanks much.

Ben
 
"How depressingly obvious"

Just stare at that pink baffle, the color is supposed to soothe..... :lol:

No worries, now you know:)

The larger diameter pipe you can use, the smoother (and quieter) the flow. Even better if you route the top smooth with a roundover bit inside and out.

I plan to have my skimmer in a big box in my next sump. This box will be able to overflow from all 4 sides. My skimmer will have no bottom, but will be "floating" in this box. This is so I can drain my overflow line right into my skimmer. Since I will have a surge, this will help keep the skimmer water level stable. It'll also be real easy to clean out the skimmer:)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7716088#post7716088 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by H20ENG
"How depressingly obvious"

Just stare at that pink baffle, the color is supposed to soothe..... :lol:

No worries, now you know:)

The larger diameter pipe you can use, the smoother (and quieter) the flow. Even better if you route the top smooth with a roundover bit inside and out.

I plan to have my skimmer in a big box in my next sump. This box will be able to overflow from all 4 sides. My skimmer will have no bottom, but will be "floating" in this box. This is so I can drain my overflow line right into my skimmer. Since I will have a surge, this will help keep the skimmer water level stable. It'll also be real easy to clean out the skimmer:)

Cool. I'm hoping to gravity-feed my skimmer, also to achieve direct skimming from what will probably be a coast-to-coast external overflow on the short end of the tank.

BTW, you have pictures of a lot of impressive gadgets in your gallery. Do you keep a tank at home as well, or are most of those for your "day job?" :)
 
Most of that cool stuff was for other people or at my old job. My tanks are kind of neglected at the moment. My 90 is still dark to cook the rock. One of my little tanks still has a water bottle skimmer that I made 15 minutes before going on vacation.:D Cobblers kids have no shoes...
Still working on my setup, but someday I'll have some cool pics.

Remember that if you do a surge, it will make your skimmer fluctuate. Not if you use an OceansMotions, but a big head tank and resulting dump.

Sweet project!
 
Okay, I'm really ready now for some input on the ventilation in the room. Here are the relevant facts:

1. The tank and all supporting equipment will all be in one 200 square foot room.

2. The room has two windows to the outside and will be sealed off from the rest of the house with a weather-stripped door and moisture barriers behind all the walls, floor, and ceiling.

3. The room has radiant floor heating; there are no ventilation ducts anywhere in the house.

4. It's easy for me to cut holes in the side of the room that vent to the outside.

5. I live in a dry climate (Colorado) at 8,500 feet. It is consistently cold here in all but the summer months, and it is relatively cool in the summer -- never more than 80F and typically about 45F at night.


Given the above, what are my choices for managing heat and humidity? I've read about HRV's, simple exhausts, active air-conditioners, eco-coolers, bathroom fans, and more. It's a little overwhelming and kind of hard for me to understand what's really effective. My priorities are, in rough order, quiet, energy efficient, inexpensive, and easy to install.

What do you folks suggest?
 
Today we have good news and, well, news.

First the good news: I cross-posted my plea for HVAC advice and capncapo, resident RC HVAC expert, answered with the following:

Having vents to the outside that would be manually opened, closed and adjusted when necessary would satisfy just about every one of your criteria... Placing one of the vents low and the other high will make for a natural flow of air into and out of your room with no noise.

This is conveniently fantastic. Everything else is more expensive up here, but at least humidity control is not. :)


Now for the other news. The structural engineer came back with a list of modifications that will be required to support the load of the tank and all its supporting equipment including mixing reservoirs, sump, refugium, etc. Here's the list of recommendations:

1. Double the number of floor joists to 8" on center.
2. Replace the steel beam bearing one end of the joists with a beam twice as big, or weld a big steel plate to the bottom of it.
3. Double the size of the foundation footing that the steel beam loads onto.
4. Above the cut-outs in the walls for the tank, install a header consisting of two 9.25" microlam beams.

I can't say any of this is really a huge surprise, but it's a daunting list. A lot of the work will require access (and big messes) underneath the room, and all of that area is filled with a bunch of small finished areas (closets, bathrooms, utility closet, part of a bedroom, ventilation soffet, etc.). So the job will be decidedly non-trivial.

Next step is to get some builders to come render their "expert" opinion, and also quote me prices. I plan to do some of it myself, but the heavy lifting, welding, and the structural stuff I'm going to have to hand off to people with more time and musclepower than me.
 
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