Bulkhead fabrication

[CleveYank]

Anyone use weld-on 16 to glue larger threaded/slip adapters to internal overflow side of a bulkhead?

IE...has anyone done it and had them stick with some kind of PSI where the joint did not fail?


IF the question is why would I do this?

To relieve log-jamm at the 1 inch bulkhead of an AGA tank so that I do not have to insert a 1 inch threaded or pipe and thereby reducing the water volume even further.

 

[serpentman]

Hey Mike, if I understand correctly, you may be able to take 2 threaded bulkheads an abut them and glue the flanges together. This would increase the surface area at the point of bond and make it stronger. Just an idea, never tried it though.

 

[CleveYank]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12243160#post12243160 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by serpentman
Hey Mike, if I understand correctly, you may be able to take 2 threaded bulkheads an abut them and glue the flanges together. This would increase the surface area at the point of bond and make it stronger. Just an idea, never tried it though.

Yes Jeff, you are understanding it correctly. I will think aloud here so to speak.

I'm using 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inch diameter rubber coupling with higher quality stainless clamps on the underside of the bulkhead to connect to the output of the overflow to the sump side. Thereby allowing for very little strain on the bulkhead taking things on and off so I don't turn either of them into a leaker by getting too heavy re-sealing things taking them on and off as the need arises.

ON the inside however, I am necking them up and will need something reliable since a repair on the inside of the overflow would be a major pain. What I came up with was a threaded coupling that has hex nut flangle that I can get the bond surface area larger. And the threads internal are 1/8 of an inch larger than the ID of the bulkhead and thereby allow me to "build" a layer of epoxy that attaches to the threads and to the joint of that 1/8 inch overlap. And the hex flange I can bond and overlap over that flange and increase the bond on the external surface there.

So, long story short we're in the same avenue of thought on increasing surface area to carry the bond. To reduce the stress that this will encounter when I take this apart I will either work the threads with a brass brush by hand until they spin effortlessly. This would give me a hand tighten perfect seal with a dab of white teflon tape spun on. Or fitting it with a nut and nylon washer coupling style to handtighten onto pipe end. Allowing me to service, change design, of whichever overflow sound reducing plumbing I use without putting much strain on the connection.

Guess the flange bond will be the ticket.