Bulkhead fitting help

I'm going to have 3 tanks in the stand.

1 20gal long

1 DSB

1 ATO

The DSB tank will recirculate in the sump. The sump is about 30" long and the DSB tank is 20" high. I need to go from the sump to the DSB and back to the sump. I'm looking for a lower flow rate. I'm guessing 20-40 ish. Let's say I want to go up 20" and over 33" so there will be only 1 90• on the inlet going to the tank / the pipe going from the outlet of the pump to the DSB. It will gravity feed from the DSB back to the sump. I want to run PVC and use bulk heads on the DSB tank. One as an inlet and one as an outlet. I don't know if it's right but I was told to make the outlet on the DSB tank 2.5 times bigger then the inlet on the DSB tank. The stand it self is only about 24" tall so it's a tight fit. That's why I was thinking to use two bulk heads on the DSB tank. I need a smaller pump that will do the job because space is tight. The DSB is made out of acrylic and drilled. The sump is made out of glass and not drilled. I would rather use a submersible pump because of space.

How do I figure out which pump to buy and what flow rate I need?

Well, right off the bat, you are heading the wrong direction with wanting low flow over your DSB. You will pollute the sand bed so fast you will think the method is worthless (as most detractors claim.)

The typical "bucket" DSB is a 5-gallon bucket, (Home Depot: $2.97) with 60lbs of oolitic sand (aragonite is best) in it. They are 12" in diameter, and 14.5" tall. This will handle ~ 100 - 120 gallon systems. Effectiveness is based on 1: Depth, and 2: surface area. This leaves just a few inches of water over the sand bed. You want a strong flow over the top of the DSB, in the range of ~200gph, diffuse flow, so you don't blow the sand around. The water should also be "filtered" mechanically, to keep detritus out. Having the flow high enough to keep it in suspension is just as well.

Going in you want to use 3/4" pipe. going out, will be open channel, so going larger on the drain, is not a bad thing. You are going to find that uni-seals will be better for this application than bulkheads.

If you had said how do I plumb in a bucket DSB, you would have gotten further sooner. ;)
 
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Well, right off the bat, you are heading the wrong direction with wanting low flow over your DSB. You will pollute the sand bed so fast you will think the method is worthless (as most detractors claim.)

The typical "bucket" DSB is a 5-gallon bucket, with 60lbs of oolitic sand (aragonite is best) in it. Effectiveness is based on 1: Depth, and 2: surface area. This leaves just a few inches of water over the sand bed. You want a strong flow over the top of the DSB, in the range of ~200gph, diffuse flow, so you don't blow the sand around. The water should also be "filtered" mechanically, to keep detritus out.

Going in you want to use 3/4" pipe. going out, will be open channel, so going larger on the drain, is not a bad thing. You are going to find that uni-seals will be better for this application than bulkheads.

If you had said how do I plumb in a bucket DSB, you would have gotten further sooner. ;)

I was thinking of running a 10" DSB with water above it or is that bad? I figured I could get more water in the system.
 
I was thinking of running a 10" DSB with water above it or is that bad? I figured I could get more water in the system.

A Bucket DSB is typically 9 - 10" deep. But has a far better surface area to depth ratio than the tank you were talking about, and leaving just a few inches of water above the bed. Stop worrying about adding water volume as so many get "obsessed" about. Unless you are doubling the total system volume, you are accomplishing nothing. :)

Also, 'low flow' for "fuges" is just as inaccurate as 40gph over a DSB. Fuges can benefit greatly and be more benefit to the system at much higher flow rates, approaching that of the DT. DSBs are exactly the same. Calfo put it at "flow rates approaching SPS rules of thumb" @ 40x. (40x * 5 gallons = 200gph.)
 
So I need a syphon break hole?

No you don't. You don't want it to siphon, so it runs more like Glass-Holes type drains... inlet partly above the water level, allowing air in. 2.5x the feed (3/4") size makes sense in this respect, but larger than 1.5" would be overkill.
 
Space is to tight for a bucket and I don't want it out side the stand that's why I'm using this tank. So am I better off adding more sand to the tank then?
 
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No you are better off making room (smaller sump) for the bucket, or changing your ATO plans, which does not have a surface area constraint. Looking at your pic, the stand is too crowded anyway... 2" is not a challenging problem, lengthwise. Front to back could be a little bit challenging, but hardly insurmountable. The bottom of a 5 gallon bucket is only 10.5" in diameter. :)

Also, you want the DSB looped to and from the main return pump section of the sump.

Drains from DT > skimmer section. Everything else return section of the sump. You need no other sections.
 
To be honest if you use a decent return pump, you don't need an additional pump to run the DSB. You can branch it off the main return line. That will be more efficient. I won't use a power head to do the job of a pump. They are not designed for that task. The Eheim 600 compact does not have enough oomph for this. Eheim 1000 compact is marginal.

I am not sure what your thoughts are, you seem more concerned about a pump, than how this should be done. DSBs can do two things: they can make your system, or they can break it. There are does and don'ts that are more important than the pump.

Another thing I just thought about, is you don't want the inlet and outlet to the DSB on the same side. Water needs to flow across the bed. Inlet --------------------> Outlet.

I would rather you did not run a DSB, than end up adding to the negative anecdote concerning them. :)
 
You'll need a syphon break, or the fuge will drain to the level in the sump when the power goes out. It just a small hole that lets air in and stop the back flow. Either that or the nozzle needs to be at or very near the water's surface.
 
Hi All,

Any advice would be great.

have been battling nitrates for a while now - and i have accepted that despite decreasing feeding, water changes, low levels of fish, and wofting rocks and EVERYTHING else, i 100% need to install a sump, with a skimmer and run a NP bio pellet reactor..

So..background story over & onto the point of the thread..

I currently have a (around about) 100 gal acrylic marine system - been running about 4 months).. i have sourced and plan to install a sump below it (space is a non-issue for now).

So: Sump size is 30 X 18 X 12 inches (28 US Gallons) - big enough? also - are separators within the Sump 100% necessary (please let me know about this as I am planning to not install seperators)?

I plan on having - filter sponges, rowaphos, active carbon (these 3 I already have in the system), Bubble Magus Curve 5 Skimmer, Nutrifix Media Reactor (goodbye nitrates), and pump wise I will use my spare Eheim compact 3000. also I will run filter socks to collect large bits of debris. I will move some live rock from the DT into the sump too once it's all up & running.

So firstly - if anyone thinks my plan of the above is not good enough or is not going to work feel free to criticise - i want to learn!

But mainly, i have the drill i need and the bits... the only thing i am unsure about is the size of bulkheads i need.... i am not great with DIY but my dad is and is happy to help, providing i know what i need to do....

Am i correct in thinking that after drilling the holes, bulkheads are all i need? i've read that you dont even need to use silicon with them? (or is that not true?) What size bulkheads should i use? Based on my reading I think i need 1" for the hole which is going from tank -> sump?.. would the hole be the same size for the return side of the system?

Can anyone recommend what size both holes should be?

Done quite a lot of research into the equipment etc i'll need but this is more to do with my lack of understanding the real difference in hole sizes... the pump i have should easily handle the flow rate i require (or so the LFS told me..)..

If anyone could help that would be much appreciated... cannot wait to get nitrates down to a respectable level and start spending my savings on corals instead of nothing!!

1 - does the sump plan & equipment sound good/able to do the job?
2 - what size bulkhead should I use for the return pipe? what size for the outlet pipe?
3 - do I need to have dividers in the sump? are the 100% necessary?


Thanks in advance guys!

Calvin
 
Hi All,

Any advice would be great.

have been battling nitrates for a while now - and i have accepted that despite decreasing feeding, water changes, low levels of fish, and wofting rocks and EVERYTHING else, i 100% need to install a sump, with a skimmer and run a NP bio pellet reactor..

So..background story over & onto the point of the thread..

I currently have a (around about) 100 gal acrylic marine system - been running about 4 months).. i have sourced and plan to install a sump below it (space is a non-issue for now).

So: Sump size is 30 X 18 X 12 inches (28 US Gallons) - big enough? also - are separators within the Sump 100% necessary (please let me know about this as I am planning to not install seperators)?

I plan on having - filter sponges, rowaphos, active carbon (these 3 I already have in the system), Bubble Magus Curve 5 Skimmer, Nutrifix Media Reactor (goodbye nitrates), and pump wise I will use my spare Eheim compact 3000. also I will run filter socks to collect large bits of debris. I will move some live rock from the DT into the sump too once it's all up & running.

So firstly - if anyone thinks my plan of the above is not good enough or is not going to work feel free to criticise - i want to learn!

But mainly, i have the drill i need and the bits... the only thing i am unsure about is the size of bulkheads i need.... i am not great with DIY but my dad is and is happy to help, providing i know what i need to do....

Am i correct in thinking that after drilling the holes, bulkheads are all i need? i've read that you dont even need to use silicon with them? (or is that not true?) What size bulkheads should i use? Based on my reading I think i need 1" for the hole which is going from tank -> sump?.. would the hole be the same size for the return side of the system?

Can anyone recommend what size both holes should be?

Done quite a lot of research into the equipment etc i'll need but this is more to do with my lack of understanding the real difference in hole sizes... the pump i have should easily handle the flow rate i require (or so the LFS told me..)..

If anyone could help that would be much appreciated... cannot wait to get nitrates down to a respectable level and start spending my savings on corals instead of nothing!!

1 - does the sump plan & equipment sound good/able to do the job?
2 - what size bulkhead should I use for the return pipe? what size for the outlet pipe?
3 - do I need to have dividers in the sump? are the 100% necessary?


Thanks in advance guys!

Calvin

Hey why don't you stop posting multiple times with the same question on other peoples threads... create your own thread.
 
I did but just wanted some more advice! Apologies!

I saw that you did but you posted the same question (copied and pasted) several times in other peoples threads. This does nothing but waste peoples time that are here to help others. It makes it difficult to search for information and it is against the forum posting rules.
 
I saw that you did but you posted the same question (copied and pasted) several times in other peoples threads. This does nothing but waste peoples time that are here to help others. It makes it difficult to search for information and it is against the forum posting rules.
Okay matey I said sorry.. im a noob to these things.. calm down.
 
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