Bumps On My New Imperator...

elekamit

New member
HEY GUYS, I TOOK AN IMPERATOR FROM A LFS, INTO THE QT HE WENT AND IT'S A GOOD THING HE WENT THERE BECAUSE IN A FEW DAYS HE WAS FILLED WITH ICH.

I GAVE A DOSAGE OF COPPER AND WITH GOOD MAINTANACE, AFTER A PERIOD OF 4 DAYS HE WAS CLEAN AS A WHISTLE, I GAVE HIM A FEW EXTRA DAYS FOR OBSERVATION AND INTO THE TANK HE WENT, HE IS EATING VERY WELL, I JUST DON'T KNOW WHAT THESE BUMPS ON HIS SIDES ARE...

HE HAS A BIG BUMP ON EACH OF HIS SIDE, YOU CAN SEE IT CLEARLY IN THE FOLOWING PHOTO:

IMG_1872_resize.jpg


ANY THOGHTS?
 
You only treated for 4 days? Minimum treatment with copper is 2 weeks! Now you have ich in your main and all the fish need to be removed and treated..
 
I TREATED FOR 12 DAYS, I SAID :

"I GAVE HIM A FEW EXTRA DAYS FOR OBSERVATION "

AND ANYWAY, I DON'T SEE WHY YOU EVEN RESPONDED, YOU DIDN'T EVEN REMOTLY ANSWERED MY QUESTION
 
:rolleyes: For your response....you really don't deserve an answer and if you reread your first post, 'a few extra days for observation' makes it sound as if you stopped treatment after the spots were gone and just kept an eye on him..

From the picture, it looks as if he still has ich to me, it may look completely different in person...What does it look like to you?


minimum treatment for ich is 14 days and YOU SHOULD ALWAYS LEAVE THE FISH IN QUARANTINE ANOTHER 2 WEEKS TO BE SURE HE IS ICH/DISEASE FREE..

I don't see any 'large bumps'....but that SOUNDS like Lymphocystis

It could also be a reaction to the copper...What kind did you use?
are their any other symptoms? Flashing? Heavy breathing?
 
I agree with butterflygrl, it looks like this fish still has Cryptocaryon (based on the light colored spots in front of its pelvic fins - that is how imperators respond to minor cases of ick). The copper treatment should have been for 14 days followed by a minimum of 14 days observation. There is a good chance that the fish has carried the crypt into the main tank.
As for the bumps - I've seen those before on Imperators - ones that have not fed well for a long period, *or* ones that have moved from low salinity water to high salinity in less than a day's time. For example: moving the fish from 1.018 to 1.024 will cause it to dehydrate, allowing the air bladder and/or ribs to stick out like that.
I'm very concerned overall about this fish because of the pale coloration, the prominance of its nares (plus the bumps on its side and the crypt.). I also bet this fish has flukes. If you give it a four to five minute freshwater dip in a clean bucket, and then examine what settles out on the bottom of the bucket under a microscope, I bet there is at least a 50% chance that you will find flukes.
I'm sorry, but this fish looks like hundreds of other poor condition (skinny) Philippine or Indonesian imperators I've seen with similar problems - the prognosis is grave, they almost always die within a month.


Jay Hemdal
 
WELL, I SURE DO HOPE YOU ARE WRONG.

AS FOR ICH IN MY SYSTEM, I HAVE ICH IN MY SYSTEM ANYWAY BECAUSE OF MY POWDER BLUE, ONCE A MONTH HE ALWAYS GETS A SPOT OR 2 BUT IT ALWAYS GOES AWAY IN A DAY OR TWO.
AS FOR ICH ON THE IMPERATOR, IT MAY SEEM LIKE THAT IN THE PICTURE, BUT HE IS COMPLETLY ICH FREE, HE DOES HAVE HLLE BUT IT IS ALREADY STARTING TO GO AWAY I THINK DUE TO MY WATER QUALITY (I AM VERY STRICT WHEN IT COMES TO WATER QUALITY).

THE AONLY THING I AM REALLY CONCERNED ABOUT ARE THOSE BIG BUMP ON THE SIDES..., IS THERE A CHANCE THEY WILL GO AWAY?
 
P.S.
I USED SEACHEM'S CUPRAMIN.

AND THE FISH IS NOT BREATHING HEAVY OR ANYTHING.
HE IS FEEDING AND ACTING NORMAL.
 
You say other fish in you tank have ick right? well than this fish does too! The 2 weeks you stressed this fish out in QT with copper was useless. Your powder blue has just built tolerance to it, and I bet that "spot or 2" is really alot more.

Sorry to say but your fish is definitely not "COMPLETELY ICK FREE" it is impossible to make the statement about your PB and than make the statement about the imp.

YES!, your display has ick. now it's up to you to treat it the right way. ALL fish in QT with a proven method to fight ICK ie: Hypo/copper, display left fallow for 6 weeks.

GL on keeping that fish alive you going to need it!

1SR
 
IT'S AMAZING HOW YOU ARE JUST WILLING TO PREACH.

I ASKED A QUESTION ABOUT SOMETHING, AND YOU ALL JUST ANSWERED A QUESTION I DIDN'T ASK.

I DIDN'T ASK ABOUT ICH, I AM NOT CONCERNED ABOUT ICH, IT IS MY TANK AND NOT YOURS, YOU CAN SUGGEST WHAT YOU WOULD DO BUT YOU CANNOT OBEY ME WHAT TO DO.

NOW IF YOU DO NOT WANT TO ANSWER MY ORIGINAL QUESTION THAT'S FINE. BUT PLEASE DON'T PREACH ME OR MY METHODS. I HAVE KEPT THIS TANK DISEASE FREE FOR 2 AND A HALF YEARS AND I DID IT MY WAY.

I DO NOT MEAN TO DISSRESPECT YOU, BUT PLEASE DON'T DISSRESPECT ME EITHER.

NOW, PLEASE JUST ANSWER WHAT I ASK OR DON'T BOTHER AT ALL...
 
I mean no disrespect, you say you have kept your display disease free for 2 years that is simply not he case.

GL in finding you answer.
 
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