Ca Level

[bohlke]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8412018#post8412018 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Thefilterguys
OK first of all you need some good test kits, strips are the worst. You need to get some Saliferts kits. Your alk reading is not in correct terms unless you are saying 3.00 meq/L which would be a reading of 8.4 dKH. I would not rely on any of your readings until you get good test kits. The only thing on your RO/DI that may be exhausted is your DI resin at this time.

You are not going to get correct readings on DI water with a test kit.

Jim

Thanks Jim - I am loolking for a local reseller of the Saliferts kits, I am having a hard time believing the results I am seeing. The Ca test is not a strip but it is only two steps (two agents), I have seen others that are five. Should I see Ca readings from the RO or the RO/DI output at all? What symptoms should I see in the tank for high Ca readings?

 

[Thefilterguys]

If you can't find the test kits local you will have to go online. Try Premium or Custom Aquatics they are RC sponsors and will give you quick service. Test kits don't generally work and give false readings on RO/DI water as it is stripped of ions. Salifert test kits give you a color change for a reading not a color match so they are much easier to use. If you are using Instant Ocean and no additives I doubt your reading is correct but I've been wrong before. Generally IO will give you a calcium reading in the 300's.

Jim

 

[jdieck]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8412018#post8412018 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Thefilterguys
OK first of all you need some good test kits, strips are the worst. You need to get some Saliferts kits. Your alk reading is not in correct terms unless you are saying 3.00 meq/L
You are not going to get correct readings on DI water with a test kit.

Jim

I also think it is important to verify and obtain good readings. As a note, some kits read alkalinity in ppm. 300 ppm will be equivalent to 6 meq/lt (16.8 dKh)

 

[Thefilterguys]

jd I guess I have been using Saliferts to long I have our entire club converted over. I don't think his cal and alk reading can be that high without a perspiration event.

Jim

 

[jdieck]

Hi Jim:
Assuming the reading is aproximately right which must be verified I have seen that with 100 to 200 ppm (2 to 4 meq/lt) of hardness in the initial mix water added to the usually 180 ppm (3.6 meq/lt) Alkalinity in IO can really call for high readings in the mix despite some precipitation during mixing. This is a very common problem when tap water instead of RO/DI is used for the mix.
In any case, the issue I see is to find out if the RO/DI is working and if not fix the issue for which I think you are the best help bohlke can get.

 

[Thefilterguys]

Jd he also contacted me by e-mail and linked me to the thread as he has my RO/DI system. We are working with him and good test kits are the first project.

Jim

 

[bertoni]

I agree. Getting some good test kits would be my first step.

 

[bohlke]

I have the Saifert kits on order, I went down to the LFS (various) and got some better test kits. I am not going to use the strips anymore. I also picked up 5G of RO water figured a small water change couldnt hurt. Also Jim suggested that my DI filter may be expired and that I was a procrastinator, both turned out to be true Most likely my RO/DI output could have changed the levels in my tank just not sure.


Here are the test results:

Tank

pH 8.3
KH 7.5 dh (I had one test out of the 4 that was 11 dh)
Nitrate 0 ppm
Ca 340 mg/L (ppm)
Alk 1.6 Meg/L (I doubt this test kit is accurate)
Nitrite 0 ppm

Tap

Nitrate 5ppm

RO

Nitrate 5ppm (this could be 0 its real hard to tell the difference on the fresh water test)


LFS RO (mixed by me with IO)

Nitrate 0ppm
Ca 420 mg/l (ppm)
pH 8.3
Alk 1.6 (again most likely bogus)
KH 7.5 dh


I was skeptical about these results so I tested quite a few times and got the same(ish) numbers. I will compare these kits with the Saifert kits as everyone thinks they are the most accurate.

 

[jdieck]

Looking forward to the tests with the Saliferts

 

[bertoni]

I think Salifert kits are the easiest to use of the trustworthy kits I've tried, but the SeaTest-FasTest kits have been accurate for me, and SeaChem also has a good reputation for some of their kits. Hagen, Hach, and LaMotte have also gotten good reviews for some of their kits.

 

[Thefilterguys]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8417686#post8417686 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bohlke
Also Jim suggested that my DI filter may be expired and that I was a procrastinator, both turned out to be true Most likely my RO/DI output could have changed the levels in my tank just not sure.

I said it nicely and only because we all are at sometime in this hobby. With exhausted resin the TDS is not good once your resin starts throwing back.

Jim

 

[bohlke]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8420194#post8420194 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Thefilterguys
I said it nicely and only because we all are at sometime in this hobby. With exhausted resin the TDS is not good once your resin starts throwing back.

Jim

I thought it was funny and true. I am assuming that the Nitrate test is a good way to determine if the RO/DI filter is working? I am considering getting a TDS meter as well, I just want to get that resolved ASAP.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

TDS is much better than nitrate, unless you have a lot of nitrate in the tap water.

 

[bohlke]

Happy Monday

Happy Monday

Well everything I needed (initially) arrived today. Being limited on time I was only able to do the following tests:

Ca (salifert) 310
Ca (Aqua pharma) 390-420

I figured the salifert test would be more accurate after I opened the box, amazing what a syringe will do for accuracy. I am assuming that the aqua pharma test will be unusable (precision of the test was bad as well)

I also got a TDS meter, put it on the in/out of my DI before changing the resin and the readings were 180/210ppm. Changed the resin and the readings were 180/5 ppm. For another test I put the meter on the input/output of the RO system the in/out readings were 190ppm/180ppm.

I am assuming this means I need a new RO membrane or am I jumping to conclusions?

Should I wait to use the DI water until I get the PPM down on the output of the RO?

 

[Thefilterguys]

Your numbers for TDS are confusing originally you gave a TDS of your tap water of over 300. Now your RO reading is 180 at that rate your DI cartridge will produce 40 gallons of water before exhausted.

On the TDS meter do you have the two black marks lined up on the fitting and the probe stem? If the TDS readings are correct it doesn't sound good for your membrane. Reading should be taken after the system has been running for four or five minutes. Is it possible that you have run hot water through your system?

Jim

 

[bohlke]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8447041#post8447041 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Thefilterguys
Your numbers for TDS are confusing originally you gave a TDS of your tap water of over 300. Now your RO reading is 180 at that rate your DI cartridge will produce 40 gallons of water before exhausted.

On the TDS meter do you have the two black marks lined up on the fitting and the probe stem? If the TDS readings are correct it doesn't sound good for your membrane. Reading should be taken after the system has been running for four or five minutes. Is it possible that you have run hot water through your system?

Jim

Ugh - I cannot see a second black mark, the only one is on the T so I have lined that up with the notch in the top of the sensor piece. I moved the in probe to the input of the RO and the out probe to the T going to my sink (instead of the RO/DI input). I let the system run opening the tap on the sink for about 5 min an the meter read 195 in and 195 out. No hot water was run through the system, I only have a tap on the cold water pipe.

I can test the tap water with the Saliferts kit I am assuming the test I did before was on the high side (so far it has tested consistanly higher than the saliferts kit).

Are there any other visual inspections I can do to the pre-filters before the RO membrane to ensure they are ok?

 

[Thefilterguys]

OK I would conclude your membrane may be toast and needs replacing. You have a chlorine guzzler as one of the 2 carbon blocks good for 20000 gallons of chlorine filtering. With two carbon blocks I wouldn't think it is exhausted and I do not think do not think you have a bypass. Just to be sure try removing your membrane and reinstalling it just in case, before replacing.

Jim

 

[jdieck]

Sorry, Double

 

[jdieck]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8448961#post8448961 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jdieck
Is there a chance that the product line and the waste line are wrongly flipped/exchanged and waste is being measured rather than product?

 

[Thefilterguys]

jd I have these really good drawings let me post one.

By the way thanks again jd they have been reworked a bit but only gotten better.

Jim