Cabo's BC29 to Reefer 170 Migration and Tank Build

Cabo2008

Member
Ok, so I hope it's ok to post this here in the Nano section since I'm going from a 29 gallon to a 34 gallon (by manufacturer specs anyway.....we all know this changes based on chambers/sumps/etc. but none of that matters according to how I understand the rules for posting here. But if it's not OK, I'm sure a MOD will move it to the appropriate location.

On to the fun stuff now!

As some of you know from checking out my BC29 build thread, I've been modding and tweaking the BC so much that it really doesn't resemble an AIO anymore. Most of this comes from my history of always doing a custom system and wanting to tinker to "make things better". So, I decided to break down do the BC29 and transfer it to a more custom system. Now, many would think "what's he talking about? The Reefer 170 isn't really a custom system." Now while I partially agree with that, I also think the reefer series allow for the most ease in adding customization's while starting off with what many of us would do anyway. Plus the aesthetics are just sexy.....I really like the look of the tank/stand.

So after mulling over the details and chatting with a few fellow members here about it, I went with the reefer 170 over just building out my own system.

First, let me start by saying that the stand and tank both have some pretty serious weight to them. The stand is a tank, especially once you get it built, and I forgot how heavy starphire glass is. The stand and tank's instructions might leave a bit to be desired but anyone who's built up some Ikea furniture, or anything like that, should be fine. I'm actually pretty impressed with the quality of the whole kit, it shows some pretty good attention to detail and doesn't seem like they skimped on much (with the exception of the ATO reservoir.....1.5gal? come on guys.......).

After getting the stand built up, it was time to start breaking down the BC29. I had to break it down prior to setting up the tank and plumbing for the reefer170 due to space in my apartment. So I moved all the livestock to a combination of rubbermaid containers and buckets I use for tank maintenance. After getting everything out of the BC29, the race was on to get the 170 up and running as I wanted to minimize any temp/flow shock to the livestock. That all went like clockwork with the exception of me looking at the diagram backwards once when connecting the overflow and return plumbing.....but that was a quick fix.

So started filling the 170 and got it about 2/3 filled and realized that I didn't make enough fresh seawater to finish it off! Sigh......I thought I'd mixed up 15 Gal, but had only done 10. So I added my MP10 (yeah Soulpatch, traded back for now) and a heater to the tank, moved the LR and livestock into the display and fired up that part to try and keep everyone happy. In the meantime, I waited for more RO to fill up and then mix up more seawater.

BTW, I did a leak test on the plumbing before adding the LR/livestock to the tank......just in case anyone was wondering if I just "rolled the dice" :) .

So after waiting for more RO and mixing up the seawater......I finished topping off the tank and sump. Fired up the return pump and tweaked the "silent overflow" to get it pretty darn quiet. I can only really hear it when the mode changes on the MP10 and the water level moves around from where it was set when I dialed it in. So overall, pretty slick setup.

After that, setup the skimmer, dosing pumps, ATO (no I'm not using RS's I'm sticking with my Tunze), and lighting. All that went in like butter....so no issues. The only thing I haven't hooked up yet is my carbon/GFO reactor, but I'll probably get that installed sometime over the weekend.

So here's some "right after" pictures. I'll post some more now that it's settled down a bit later on.

And yes, that's a bit of cyano on the frag rocks......I swear those thing leach something fierce....but I do like them for growing out frags.
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Oh, and this probably isn't final placement in the tank either. I'm going to have to "feel it out" to see where everyone will be happiest.

Anyway, I hope this info is at least mildly entertaining and feel free to comment as you like :) .

I'll be adding updates over time to share how things are going.
 
I really like the look of that tank, but for the life of me, I just think a tank should have a top of some sort. It probably come from me having tanks as a kid that always had a hood/canopy over them.

I would need a canopy in my house with 4 large dogs. :D
 
Agreed! I really do love the look of the tank.....that was one of the main selling points for me....

Ya know, I already have a 24"x 24" DIY clear mesh top for the tank that I need to put together. Just need to to go to Lowes or HD and pick up some more corners so I can accommodate the Kessil mount and overflow box.

I might get to it "someday" HA!

In all honesty, I really should do it just so I can add some "jumpers" if I want to.
 
A huge difference between the biocube and that tank is going to be evaporation rate. You're probably experiencing having to add quite a bit more topoff than the biocube. Watch the alk, it will drop very fast. I had a similar tank and went to biocube because i got tired of adding topoff to the ato resevior.
 
Thanks for the head up!

I was running my BC with an open top and overflow/sump, so I'm not seeing a huge change yet. But I'm running a Tunze ATO instead of the built in one, on a 5 gal reservoir....for now, so I hope to gauge things over the next few weeks to see how it goes.
 
If you were running the bc open top with sump, you prob wont see any difference. I thought you had the top on. I get royally annoyed with the constant filling of the top off water. I really love the bc i have now, as i add 1 gal of topoff once a month if that!
 
Looking good Cabo. The Mp10 is a clean look on the tank. You thinking of staying with that or flipping back to the Gyre?
 
Thanks man! I'm not really sure just yet. I'm tempted to run the gyre with the MP10 but run it vertically from the left rear "pushing" forward at a slight angle to get the right bounce off the front so I have a nice little circular flow...........or a whirlpool........one or the other :)

I'm still going to add another small PH to the left side if I don't use the Gyre........that whole BB thing ya know.....trying to keep the detrius all pushed to the front for easy cleaning during water changes.
 
Ok, so I thought I'd add a couple of updates.

First off, I get the the wonderful honor of mostly emptying my tank to re-level it now that the carpet has compressed fully and I have a measurement of how much shimming I need to do (almost a 100 year old house, so the floor isn't all that level). So that should be fun.....totally worth it though for peace of mind.

Also, got the reactor hooked up with a little GFO and carbon, so here's some shots of the cabinet and a couple of new additions.

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And here's a shot of one of my scarlet hermits climbing around on my pipe organ.....silly crab...
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So I added my Gyre 130 back into the tank but not how I originally thought I would. I really like this "pump" so I'm running it solo and removed my MP10.

I went ahead and picked up the Icecap interface/controller and connected it to my Apex. This is MUCH better at controlling it (for me anyway) than the stock controller. I have it running with 4 profiles for ramp up/down (day/night), daytime and night time (pretty normal I think) and so far, it's doing very well. I'll know more over the next couple of days.
 
I'm diggin' it.

I only set up a very simple program for it last night but I'm going to add more to it today. I plan on adding variations throughout the day of different pulses and power, so that should mimic nature a little better.

I checked on my tank just now (have a webcam setup so I can check on it from work or wherever) and most of my coral have opened up a bit more and all seem "happier" if you can tell that from a quick glance at a webcam stream. So I'm going back to my original thought that the wider spread of the flow does make a difference.
 
Cool. The gyre will be making the move to the 93 whenever the tank comes in... UGH.

I am thinking of supplimenting with WAV pumps as well or potentially going cheaper and getting 2 RW 8 with the JBWave.

Is it true that the icecap is for a single pump? Can you integrate it into the apex at all or is it still standalone?
 
Yes, the Icecap is for a single Gyre. It has connections just like the controller that comes with the Gyre, so I don't see how it could control more than one.

The Icecap connects directly to the Apex's variable speed port (or VDM module if you have/need one) and that's how you set up the programming for it, through the Apex.

To be honest, if this hadn't came out, I was about to dump the MP10 and Gyre and just run 2 RW-4's. For some reason, when I had it all "simple" without all the new gadgets, my tank seemed happier/healthier......but this seems to be doing to trick as well (for now).
 
Yeah I am currently torn on spending $500 for the WAV for the new tank or spending $225 for 2 RW8 and a JBwave which would accomplish much of the same. Been pretty happy with my RW4 so might go that way to save more coin and allow the WAV to be out a bit longer and be tested by people before I pounce on an upgrade.

MP40s are just too expensive at this stage to consider. $800 for 2 pumps and control interface is way too much money for basically no gain other then cleaner look and no heat in tank.


Also curious on your thoughts of the spectral controller vs apex control. I thinkyou have the spectral and your buddy has the apex control on the kessils. I am using my apex now but it is somewhat of a hassle to go into fusio to make edits so I am contemplating the controller just for ease of use. Thoughts?
 
Agreed, I like the Vortechs, but in smaller, cube-ish tanks, I just like either the wider spread of the gyre or being able to change the flow direction with the RW's.

As for the Kessil, I really like the spectral controller. It's really nothing "amazing", but I very easily setup my lighting schedule and intensity/color. If I want to make a change, it takes me less than a minute. Granted, I can't log in remotely to make changes, but I don't really "miss" that feature either. Ya know, if you want to try it out, I can hook my Kessil back up to my Apex and let you borrow the spectral controller.
 
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I can borrow the controller from my LFS. He owes me anyway as he has been using my one kessil for the past month plus. I might grab it just so I can make edits from the front of the stand when I want to take pics or make an adjustment for new corals as opposed to booting up into Fusion.
 
Ok, so after reading more and watching some videos (and playing with the controller of course), I realize I'm wrong. The Icecap can control 2 gyres but only if you want to run them in one direction. If you want the gyre to alternate, you can only run 1 (that may change later on down the line, I really don't know). The "special" cable I was advised to get to run it with the apex makes the apex see 2 VS devices. One that controls speed and the other direction.
 
I find the reverse flow is not that impactful since it is pretty weak. That said if you had two gyres you could replicate the reverse flow with the other gyre to ensure no dead spots.

Run them in antisync mode like one does with MPs...
 
Yeah man, I've never really used the reverse flow either.

Having 2 would be cool....hmm....imagine the flow I can have in my tank with that!
 
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