CADlights 39g Pro build thread
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reeftivo
Skim junkie
I'm sure most of your noise is comong from the overflow. You should really try this simple mod. In the picture there is a thin piece of black mesh between the cd cover and the wall of the overflow and that quiets it down even more.
What pump are you using? Rather than getting a smaller output pump you could just splice in a ball valve(H-depot) off the pump and turn the flow down to your liking. The skimmer will not perform better with lower flow through the sump.
All of your chambers in the sump should be the same level, so if one is higher than the others then there is blockage. In your photos they show the blue filter padding trapping tons of micros and the return looks like it is blowing those trapped micros directly up the wier and over the fuge.
If you use a filter sock over the drain tube it will help considerably. You could even quiet it more by putting a piece of coarse black sponge inside the filter sock to break up some of the surface impact (as long as it is cleaned weekly).
What pump are you using? Rather than getting a smaller output pump you could just splice in a ball valve(H-depot) off the pump and turn the flow down to your liking. The skimmer will not perform better with lower flow through the sump.
All of your chambers in the sump should be the same level, so if one is higher than the others then there is blockage. In your photos they show the blue filter padding trapping tons of micros and the return looks like it is blowing those trapped micros directly up the wier and over the fuge.
If you use a filter sock over the drain tube it will help considerably. You could even quiet it more by putting a piece of coarse black sponge inside the filter sock to break up some of the surface impact (as long as it is cleaned weekly).
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reeftivo
Skim junkie
If you have at least 10 x's turnover in your main display (20 x's for sps) with a sufficient amount of live rock, you can have lower flow through the sump. Your skimming won't improve though and you should always keep your flow through the sump at or near the rated gph that the skimmer pump processes. I have success with at or near 900 gph through the sump but lower gph would be fine. Just watch your stocking levels because the more livestock you put in the more flow you will eventually need.
reeftivo
Skim junkie
assuming i've got a vortech in place, how much flow do i really need? 300, 400gph? i've heard good things about the eheim re: heat, noise, reliability. maybe the eheim 1250 (320gph, max head of 6.5ft)? any cheaper options that people like?
eheims are great pumps but are very pricy. I am using the rio hyperflow pumps and they are half the price, half the wattage and as powerfull if not more + much less heat transfer to the main system. Check out marine depot or some other reputable site and you'll see many reviews of both.
eheims are great pumps but are very pricy. I am using the rio hyperflow pumps and they are half the price, half the wattage and as powerfull if not more + much less heat transfer to the main system. Check out marine depot or some other reputable site and you'll see many reviews of both.
reeftivo
Skim junkie
assuming i've got a vortech in place, how much flow do i really need? 300, 400gph?Anything 500 and up should be fine but you must have a sufficient amount of live rock-which you do, so you should be fine. Just fix that first chamber so that they are all equalized and take an inch or two of the DSB or take it down to two inches and fill the rest with chaeto (chaeto works awsome!) and it will also help with micros.
CalmSeasQuest
Active member
I'm thinking about going the opposite direction (increasing return pump flow a bit.) It appears the stock pump is 750gph (minus whatever head loss.) I'd like to replace it with a Rio Hyperflow 20H (60watts, 1290gph 990gph at 4', 870gph 10.8ft. 13/16" outlet.) My thought process is,
Rio is more efficient and runs cooler (Less electricity and smaller daily temp swings) it also appears a bit smaller creating more space in the sump.
I added rotating circulators to the return loclines. They vary the return directions nicely, but are gear driven and contribute to return pressure loss (I'm guessing they are worth at least another foot drop in pressure.)
I have an MP-20 in the DT now (works GREAT) but as this is going to be primarily an SPS tank, the additional flow cant hurt. I think it will also allow me to ditch a small powerhead in the center sump chamber used to create more flow for the Cheato.
Thoughts? Is anyone running a 20H as their return pump?
I'll put a ball valve on the return (anyone know what size the return line is?) just in case I need to dial back the flow to stay under the 1000gph overflow limits.
I also created a simple Kalk/top off solution - The 2.5 gal Kent Aquadose sits nicely atop the sump on a small piece of eggcrate. 1 drop every 3 seconds replaces all evap and nails my pH at 8.3. Still tweaking the amount of Kalk, but it looks like 2 teaspoons per 2.5 gals should work out great. The Aquadose should run about 6 days before refilling.
Rio is more efficient and runs cooler (Less electricity and smaller daily temp swings) it also appears a bit smaller creating more space in the sump.
I added rotating circulators to the return loclines. They vary the return directions nicely, but are gear driven and contribute to return pressure loss (I'm guessing they are worth at least another foot drop in pressure.)
I have an MP-20 in the DT now (works GREAT) but as this is going to be primarily an SPS tank, the additional flow cant hurt. I think it will also allow me to ditch a small powerhead in the center sump chamber used to create more flow for the Cheato.
Thoughts? Is anyone running a 20H as their return pump?
I'll put a ball valve on the return (anyone know what size the return line is?) just in case I need to dial back the flow to stay under the 1000gph overflow limits.
I also created a simple Kalk/top off solution - The 2.5 gal Kent Aquadose sits nicely atop the sump on a small piece of eggcrate. 1 drop every 3 seconds replaces all evap and nails my pH at 8.3. Still tweaking the amount of Kalk, but it looks like 2 teaspoons per 2.5 gals should work out great. The Aquadose should run about 6 days before refilling.
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Just thought I would share that the acrylic sump chamber cover that comes with the pro system works great for me for what the CD case is being used for above!
Also, this is kind of off topic, but I figured since these things are in my cad system that it is OK to post here: Please take a look at this ID wanted posting I posted and see if you can't tell me what they are (I like to have many opinions
) -
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=15799991#post15799991
Also, this is kind of off topic, but I figured since these things are in my cad system that it is OK to post here: Please take a look at this ID wanted posting I posted and see if you can't tell me what they are (I like to have many opinions
) -http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=15799991#post15799991
I'd like to see a pic of this! How long have you been using this and how do you like it so far? I have been using little Dasani drinking water bottles...haha
CalmSeasQuest
Active member
Easy top off and Kalk that fits in CadLights Pro Stand
Easy top off and Kalk that fits in CadLights Pro Stand
I just set this up a day ago, so it will take a few days to fine tune both the initial Kalk concentration and drip rate and again later for CA uptake and respiration as the bio load increases (I'm just completing a cycle with no inhabitants yet.) So far it works great.
Although it's not visible in the photo the 2.5 gal Auqadose is sitting on a piece of eggcrate.
Currently, my drip rate is set to 1 drop about every 3 seconds. This replaces my evaporation and provides a daily pH range of 8.29-8.33
It should run about a week before requiring refilling - of course your mileage may vary
Easy top off and Kalk that fits in CadLights Pro Stand
I just set this up a day ago, so it will take a few days to fine tune both the initial Kalk concentration and drip rate and again later for CA uptake and respiration as the bio load increases (I'm just completing a cycle with no inhabitants yet.) So far it works great.
Although it's not visible in the photo the 2.5 gal Auqadose is sitting on a piece of eggcrate.
Currently, my drip rate is set to 1 drop about every 3 seconds. This replaces my evaporation and provides a daily pH range of 8.29-8.33
It should run about a week before requiring refilling - of course your mileage may vary
Thanks for posting pics of that. I think I may ditch the shelf and do the same. I was at the DRs the other day when my little girl was sick...LOL, have you seen all the things in those rooms that are potential reef equipment? I went through the drawers because it was taking a long time and I was bored (anyone else do that, or am I the only weird one?) - I could have had a nice doser but couldn't justify snagging it...lol. Anyway, about how much was that dosing system you have? Is that thing in the front of the sump what controls the drip-rate?
reeftivo
Skim junkie
Thoughts? Is anyone running a 20H as their return pump?
I'll put a ball valve on the return (anyone know what size the return line is?) just in case I need to dial back the flow to stay under the 1000gph overflow limits.
I run the rio hyperflow 20F and I'm not positive but I believe the return is 5/8 i.d..
The rios have 13/16ths so the vinyl will fit tightly if you heat it up before applying-hair dryer works good.
I'll put a ball valve on the return (anyone know what size the return line is?) just in case I need to dial back the flow to stay under the 1000gph overflow limits.
I run the rio hyperflow 20F and I'm not positive but I believe the return is 5/8 i.d..
The rios have 13/16ths so the vinyl will fit tightly if you heat it up before applying-hair dryer works good.
reeftivo
Skim junkie
Just thought I would share that the acrylic sump chamber cover that comes with the pro system works great for me for what the CD case is being used for above!
Also, this is kind of off topic, but I figured since these things are in my cad system that it is OK to post here: Please take a look at this ID wanted posting I posted and see if you can't tell me what they are (I like to have many opinions
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=15799991#post15799991
Where is your clean up crew?:bounce1:
CalmSeasQuest
Active member
Thanks Reeftivo - I think I'll go with the 20HF. Do you have to gate yours back much? and did you notice much difference in heat or noise over the stock pump (I understand they're noisy if you let them touch the sides of the sump.)
reeftivo
Skim junkie
very little heat trans-half of the original and almost half the wattage. I no longer have to use my chiller but it is on the controller just in case. The ball valve is closed only 1/4 and when I first set it up my flow meter was reading 950gph which has probably calmed down now to around 900-I'll have to check. It can be loud if it touches the acrylic but it is so small compared to my other pumps that it is easily placed away from the walls. Just put on the suction cup base and it's quiet. The hyper flows are smaller than the standard Taam rios-nice!
time for some more complaints!
1) both hinges on the left cabinet doors are already covered in rust (tank has been running for less than 6 weeks). i mean, come on cadlights -- the 39 pro is obviously for salt water use -- how are you gonna use metal that rusts on the inside of a sump cabinet?? weak.
2) while working on my tank recently, i've noticed that, every now and again, all of the water will randomly drain out of my skimmer, like it's being flushed. the pump's not running dry (plenty of water in the skimmer chamber) -- it's almost like it skips off for a second, then comes back on, and fills with water again. is this supposed to happen??? And, I'm not expert, but if that is supposed to happen, what purpose does that even serve?
3) i'm not 100% sure that this is the tank equipment's fault (though i have no reason to think otherwise, because i'm only using the stock equipment, no other additional parts -- not even a heater), but since i installed one of those portable "shock buster" 5-outlet GFCI outlets (like they sell on DFS) for this tank on Sunday, it has tripped 4 times, including three times between the hours of 2:00AM-2:30AM (once last night, twice the night before). nothing is turning on/off at that time that would trip it (like i've read other people have experienced when using GFCIs). i don't even leave my moonlights on all night. so, what, is it a random voltage leak? i've read some bad things about my power strip (coralife power center dual-timer strip) causing fires, etc. i guess that could be it. but, i never had any trouble with it on my 8g biocube (.. or did i? my biocube's light fixture did seem to blow all at once... hmm.).
in any event, it is VERY UPSETTING to be awoken by the sound of fast-draining water in your bedroom in the middle of the night, and having to get up and press the reset button on the GFCI outlet (though, it's not neeeeearly as upsetting as having to do it twice). the upside, i guess, is that neither of these things are as upsetting as having my house burn down or getting electrocuted, which, i dunno, would i have been? something's causing it to trip....... i wonder if getting one of those ground probes would help prevent this trip by eliminating stray voltage. any thoughts (i'm assuming you can combine ground probes with GFCI)?
1) both hinges on the left cabinet doors are already covered in rust (tank has been running for less than 6 weeks). i mean, come on cadlights -- the 39 pro is obviously for salt water use -- how are you gonna use metal that rusts on the inside of a sump cabinet?? weak.
2) while working on my tank recently, i've noticed that, every now and again, all of the water will randomly drain out of my skimmer, like it's being flushed. the pump's not running dry (plenty of water in the skimmer chamber) -- it's almost like it skips off for a second, then comes back on, and fills with water again. is this supposed to happen??? And, I'm not expert, but if that is supposed to happen, what purpose does that even serve?
3) i'm not 100% sure that this is the tank equipment's fault (though i have no reason to think otherwise, because i'm only using the stock equipment, no other additional parts -- not even a heater), but since i installed one of those portable "shock buster" 5-outlet GFCI outlets (like they sell on DFS) for this tank on Sunday, it has tripped 4 times, including three times between the hours of 2:00AM-2:30AM (once last night, twice the night before). nothing is turning on/off at that time that would trip it (like i've read other people have experienced when using GFCIs). i don't even leave my moonlights on all night. so, what, is it a random voltage leak? i've read some bad things about my power strip (coralife power center dual-timer strip) causing fires, etc. i guess that could be it. but, i never had any trouble with it on my 8g biocube (.. or did i? my biocube's light fixture did seem to blow all at once... hmm.).
in any event, it is VERY UPSETTING to be awoken by the sound of fast-draining water in your bedroom in the middle of the night, and having to get up and press the reset button on the GFCI outlet (though, it's not neeeeearly as upsetting as having to do it twice). the upside, i guess, is that neither of these things are as upsetting as having my house burn down or getting electrocuted, which, i dunno, would i have been? something's causing it to trip....... i wonder if getting one of those ground probes would help prevent this trip by eliminating stray voltage. any thoughts (i'm assuming you can combine ground probes with GFCI)?
reeftivo
Skim junkie
Hi timdanger!
Man o man! I understand your dissappointment! You are having quite a few issues with you set up. That skimmer pump is most likely your problem. It is a resun pump and there is another owner that is having the same problem as you are with the start/stop issue. I believe Cad has got a bad shipment of these from resun and a few are having these problems. The resuns do have the reputation of cutting out. I am fortunate not to have experienced this yet but I have had issues with resun pumps on other skimmers I've owned. I'm sure that is why your GFC is getting tripped constantly. Contact eddie and have him send you a replacement and see if that solves the problem. If that happened to me even after the replacement was sent I think I would ask cad lights to send me a euro reef nano skimmer as compensation:mad2: Re: hinges, have eddie send you another set or pick some up from HD and spray them with either shellac or coat them with silicone spray. Mine have not rusted at all but I think it's because I installed the fans in the stand for ventilation so I don't get the humidity build up in the compartment. I do however get more evaporation than most.
Tivo
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Spoke to Eddie@Cadlights yesterday about several of these issues. I will say, as frustrating as some things have been, Eddie is definitely the best when it comes to customer service. He is always accessible, and he will talk to you about everything that's going on to help make sure you come away satisfied. that really does make all the difference.
re: the skimmer pump, eddie confirmed that he has had a few complaints about it, and they have been testing new pumps for about 2 weeks. he said that they are going to figure out which one they're going with and are going to ship a replacement to me on Tuesday. hopefully, that will be problem solved.
i don't know if this may be related (it definitely may be), but my GFCI tripped 3 times between 10pm and 2am again last night after not tripping at all since 2:30am last night. flippin' weird. anyway, i just unplugged my skimmer from the gfci to see if that made a difference. the gfci didn't trip again last night, but we'll see how tonight goes. i may just run it during the day to keep the water clean and turn it off at night until the replacement pump gets here. i might throw some carbon in there too, just to make sure my parameters don't get too out of whack (especially with my new fish, none of which like to eat the food i put in - cyclopeeze, frozen mysis, hikari marine-a...) in the meantime (i haven't been running any chemical filtration yet).
re: rusted hinges, eddie was surprised at that and had not heard any similar complaints, especially not in such a short timeframe (i know of at least one other person who has had a rust issue, though), but he said he would see what he could do (and, worst case scenario, i could go to HD for replacements).
he also said that they would begin selling tempered glass tops around November 20 for about $20 for those of us who have jumping fish. he said they don't make any money on them, but they just want to provide them to suit the needs of their customers. good stuff (especially since i want to keep a jawfish and a royal gramma).
he also suggested another option for getting rid of drainpipe-caused microbubbles: take an AquaClear sponge, cut to size, and wedge it between the overflow box and the grey elbow joints on the return pipes, below the surface skimmer (teeth). just throwing that out there for those who haven't had success with other methods (i still haven't tried it myself). he said the aquaclear sponges were porous enough to not get too clogged/cause water level variations like filter floss might do.
re: the skimmer pump, eddie confirmed that he has had a few complaints about it, and they have been testing new pumps for about 2 weeks. he said that they are going to figure out which one they're going with and are going to ship a replacement to me on Tuesday. hopefully, that will be problem solved.
i don't know if this may be related (it definitely may be), but my GFCI tripped 3 times between 10pm and 2am again last night after not tripping at all since 2:30am last night. flippin' weird. anyway, i just unplugged my skimmer from the gfci to see if that made a difference. the gfci didn't trip again last night, but we'll see how tonight goes. i may just run it during the day to keep the water clean and turn it off at night until the replacement pump gets here. i might throw some carbon in there too, just to make sure my parameters don't get too out of whack (especially with my new fish, none of which like to eat the food i put in - cyclopeeze, frozen mysis, hikari marine-a...) in the meantime (i haven't been running any chemical filtration yet).
re: rusted hinges, eddie was surprised at that and had not heard any similar complaints, especially not in such a short timeframe (i know of at least one other person who has had a rust issue, though), but he said he would see what he could do (and, worst case scenario, i could go to HD for replacements).
he also said that they would begin selling tempered glass tops around November 20 for about $20 for those of us who have jumping fish. he said they don't make any money on them, but they just want to provide them to suit the needs of their customers. good stuff (especially since i want to keep a jawfish and a royal gramma).
he also suggested another option for getting rid of drainpipe-caused microbubbles: take an AquaClear sponge, cut to size, and wedge it between the overflow box and the grey elbow joints on the return pipes, below the surface skimmer (teeth). just throwing that out there for those who haven't had success with other methods (i still haven't tried it myself). he said the aquaclear sponges were porous enough to not get too clogged/cause water level variations like filter floss might do.
My hinges are rusted too
So have mine. Getting ready to get new ones at HD.
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