CADlights 39g Pro build thread

Its been a while since I have shown a pic of my setup and I have a question too so I figured I would post an update. My tank first had water last Oct. This first pic is the last I showed on here and its from February:
IMG_20110203_111110.jpg

Here is a somewhat current video I took with my phone from about a month ago or so (take not of the growth of my Flower Petal Cap in the left of the tank. Very pleased with thr growth!):


And here is a before/after shot of my Forest Fire Monti I thought was cool. This grew quick!
IMG_6481-1-1.jpg

cc383c26.jpg



Anyways here is my question... I did not modify my plumbing at all with this setup and was thinking about upgrading my pump. Any suggestions for pumps? I have always had good luck in the past with lifegard quietone pumps. Also wondering how many GPH this overflow can actually handle. Thanks!
 
Ryan,

With stock plumbing, I had trouble tuning down (via gate valve) an Eheim 1262 to the point where the overflow/drain was able to both keep up with the flow and not gurgle/shake. maybe you'll have better luck, but i struggled for several days with it before returning it for...

a tunze silence 1073.020. super quiet pump, has been very dependable. but, it's lower flow, which i opted for based on the fact that my display flow is generated by powerheads in the display and the fact that i wanted longer contact time with fuge/skimmer.
 
Tim- I saw an Eheim return and couldnt believe how huge the thing was! Theyre also real pricey. I never really looked into the Tunze return pumps before. I see they have a 1073.040 model that does 792gph and it is fully adjustable. I will have to look into them. Theyre quite expensive and not sure if they're worth the upgrade from the stock pump. I can also get a quietone for a very good price, but I don't get as good of a deal for Tunze. Thanks for the suggestion!
 
eheim 1262 is pretty pricey, agreed. tunze isn't cheap either. and, remember, that gph is BEFORE head loss.

regarding the quietone, i had one in my tank for a few days while i waited for my tunze to arrive. it was fine. not as cool-running or quiet as the tunze, but it did the job for less money.
 
i run the 1073.040 and it's small. same size as the sicce and smaller than my eheim 1250 and 1262. They are flow adjustable at the intake via a dial. low heat and low watts too.

good pumps
 
Jump Proofing the tank

Jump Proofing the tank

I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions as how to make this tank jump proof. Since the tank is bowed on all sides, I am trying to see what ideas are out there on how to fill in the gaps if I go with a mesh and a square aluminum frame.

I am trying to make this top blend into the tank as much as possible so eggcrate really isnt a consideration. A quick picture would help a ton too! Thanks for your help!

Mark
 
Mark,

You can definitely use window framing. I made the curve in the window framing by tracing the front of my tank on a 2x4 (in pencil, then going over it in pen), then nailing nails along the line about every 2", and then bending standard window screen framing around the curve. i then nailed a nail on the opposite side of the curve to hold it in place for a few minutes, and voila! perfect curve! (you may have to do some manual bending..... also, be sure to get enough framing so that you have a spare piece to ruin the first time you try, just in case).

To get it to sit at the top of the tank while maintaining the rimless look, i've taken little clear plastic 3m hook tabs (not what you see in the first two pictures, which were only temporary systems until i got the 3m tabs installed that you can see in the last picture) and glued four of them to the top of the frame so they hang half-way over the outside edge, and then you can set it into the tank so that the edge of the tab holds it up on the top of the glass (conceptually like you see in the first picture below, but with smaller/thinner tabs). this has worked for me for at least a couple years with no signs of trouble/failure.

also, be sure you get the right mesh (1/4"). It used to be hard to find, but I think BRS sells good mesh now.

Here are some older pictures that show the top i made:

DSC_0002-7.jpg


DSC_0001-7.jpg


4859184432_370707bc08.jpg
 
still a long way to go, but i've seen some improvement since switching to the 250w halide setup (250w galaxy select-a-watt ballast, reeflux 20k bulb, lumenmax elite reflector)... so, some more recent pics!

My current theory for my crappy colors: not enough nutrients? so, i've been increasing my feeding, considering adding another fish (green coris wrasse to eat pyramid snails that never go away despite the fact that i have no clams and nothing but leftover baby turbos), and I'm seriously considering taking my GFO/carbon reactor offline, or just running it a few hours a day, or drastically reducing the amount of GFO i'm using. I've always had 0 detectable phosphates and nitrates, but figuring they must be bound up in nuisance algae, i've continued to work hard to keep the water clean. i think it's too clean, though, because i just can't grow chaeto anymore. and, although i continue to struggle with cotton candy algae in my display (i've stopped lighting my sump at night, which has dramatically reduced algae there -- still on the fence on whether i will continue this though. not bad to have algae in a sump/fuge, right?).

FTS
DSC_0016.jpg


ATL Idaho Grape Cap and Bali Green Slimer (photoshock victim -- a lot of white still on this guy, even months later -- but, the polyps are still there, though they are not well-extended)
DSC_0008.jpg


some kind of blue acro -- bottlebrush? anyway, it came to me browned out, and now it's pale, but it's a very nice blue on its growth tips. i have hopes for this one.
DSC_0028.jpg


pink cap (my best colored coral by far), ORA Red Planet (uuuuugh, just terrible color here -- i don't get the shaggy polyps on this guy, either. it's growing, but mostly just basing out)
DSC_0020_2.jpg


orange digitata, ATL Pink Flamingo Selago Acro, and others...
DSC_0014.jpg


another shot of the ATL Pink Flamingo Selago (left) next to a pink millipora
DSC_0022.jpg


Side shot of the tank...
DSC_0032.jpg
 
Hi There,

Its a beautiful set up. Wonder if you could help me. I am going to order my cadlights 39g tank this friday. I am going to order the tank, stand and for the light does it come with the light? If i want 250watts light which one do you recommend?
 
cad sells it on its website with an option of either a 150w halide + 2x 24w T5 + LED moonlight combo fixture, or an LED fixture.

I personally switched out the combo fixture for a separately purchased 250w setup (lumenmax elite reflector, galaxy 250w select-a-watt ballast, currently using a coralvue reeflux 20k bulb).
 
Happy Holidays All!

The threads been pretty quiet - Just thought I'd give it a shake :)

All's good on this end - Tanks are doing well. It's amazing how much better things do when you simply quit screwing with them :D

I finally bit the bullet and invested in a Cole-Parmer peristaltic pump for the GEO 612. Trying to run a CaRx on such a small tank using an aqua-lifter or MJ just doesn't provide enough stability in the effluent output. The Cole-Parmer runs the the exact mL/min set (currently 20ml/Min.)

I did order a third stand (and a bunch of hinges to replace those that have corroded) from Eddie at Cadlights to hide the CaRx, CO2 bottle and to provide an area safe from potential splashes fo all the Apex components. I'll update some pics when I have a chance.

Hope everyone is doing well!
 
Hey everyone,

Hope your holidays were good!

I was wondering if some could post a picture of their overflow weither it be the stock or some alternate configuration. My durso shipped when I got the tank was a much larger diameter and it would not fit in the tank with the return Tee. I ended up making a Hoffer setup and it has worked good but does require some tuning after putting arms in the tank or changing water. I am considering changing but looking for some pictures of examples if possible.

Thanks,
Mark
 
MarkL said:
Hey everyone,

Hope your holidays were good!

I was wondering if some could post a picture of their overflow weither it be the stock or some alternate configuration. My durso shipped when I got the tank was a much larger diameter and it would not fit in the tank with the return Tee. I ended up making a Hoffer setup and it has worked good but does require some tuning after putting arms in the tank or changing water. I am considering changing but looking for some pictures of examples if possible.

Thanks,
Mark
Click to expand...

Mark,

When I purchased my 39GPro a couple years ago it was shipped with a Durso that had been cut far too short. I didn't catch it until after I had glued and installed it. I've dealt with it since, but just ordered a replacement drain set from CadLights. I'll be happy to post a pic once received.
 
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