CADlights 39g Pro build thread

[timdanger]

updating everyone on my plumbing nightmare....

I switched out the Eheim 1262 for the Tunze 1073.020, and...

INSTANT. SILENCE. The Tunze is AWESOME. I literally, standing right next to it, cannot tell a difference between when it's off and when it's on. I unplugged it to test! I can't even tell that it's on next to the Bubble-Magus Mini's pump.

The Tunze also has adjustable flow (from like 20-634gph), and only uses 30 watts of electricity (at the highest flow rate). I'm running it wide open. Temperatures are running on average at 79.6, about 1.5-2 degrees less than the stock pump (older model). I've also put a gate valve on the return line that's wide open (mostly superfluous, but i figure it might come in handy every now and then).

And, I'm not missing any GPH from the Eheim because I also added a brand new vortech mp10 (thanks wife!).


I couldn't be happier with switching to the Tunze. If anyone is thinking about switching out their return pump, for $85 from Marine Depot, I don't know how you could beat this.

 

[timdanger]

Nice! Looking forward to the pics.

I have the vantec in the fixture at the lowest setting (quiet!). I also used the transformer from the vantec fan I fried on my radio shack fan in my stand. I used to have 2 fans but did'nt need them. Without fans, I got alot of condensation all over the cabinet walls and since running just the one fan on low, it dissapated all condensation and my temps are stable at 78. It is cool over here right now so my chiller never comes on but when it heats up it is nice to have the option to turn those suckers (fans) up.

they are a bit expensive, but i think that'll probably be one of the next things I work on. After a near-death experience for my bluespot jawfish, I've decided to switch from my DIY top to the glass ones Cad is selling now. The glass ones from Cad come with a hinge and will cover the oveflow. heat may end up being an issue, though, so we'll just have to wait and see what happens. (crossing fingers for no chiller required).

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

they are a bit expensive, but i think that'll probably be one of the next things I work on. After a near-death experience for my bluespot jawfish, I've decided to switch from my DIY top to the glass ones Cad is selling now. The glass ones from Cad come with a hinge and will cover the oveflow. heat may end up being an issue, though, so we'll just have to wait and see what happens. (crossing fingers for no chiller required).

I'm planning on adding the Cadlights glass top as well (in fact it was *supposed* to be delivered with the BM skimmer.) My heat concerns are the opposite - with the new AI LED lights (should be here any day), there's next to no heat so evaporation will likely be less. This will limit the amount of kalk I can add through top-off water so I'll have to increase the 2-part.

I'm hoping the addition of the PAR30 LED / frag tank and Vantec fan (or fans) in the sump will provide the increased evaporation.

Anyone else dosing 2-part? If so, how much CA uptake do you have daily? I'm dosing 20 ml each daily plus maxing out kalk in the about 3/4 gallons a day of ATO to maintain 440 Ca with pH swings to 8.15-8.3.

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

updating everyone on my plumbing nightmare....

I switched out the Eheim 1262 for the Tunze 1073.020, and...

INSTANT. SILENCE. The Tunze is AWESOME. I literally, standing right next to it, cannot tell a difference between when it's off and when it's on. I unplugged it to test! I can't even tell that it's on next to the Bubble-Magus Mini's pump.

The Tunze also has adjustable flow (from like 20-634gph), and only uses 30 watts of electricity (at the highest flow rate). I'm running it wide open. Temperatures are running on average at 79.6, about 1.5-2 degrees less than the stock pump (older model). I've also put a gate valve on the return line that's wide open (mostly superfluous, but i figure it might come in handy every now and then).

And, I'm not missing any GPH from the Eheim because I also added a brand new vortech mp10 (thanks wife!).


I couldn't be happier with switching to the Tunze. If anyone is thinking about switching out their return pump, for $85 from Marine Depot, I don't know how you could beat this.

Congrats on solving your noise issue (and on the new MP10)!

Seems odd the Eheimm would have been so loud - When I switched to the Hyperflow, I knew it was louder and was warned not to let it touch the sides - but the increased flow, less power and WAY less heat made it well worth it. Even so, it's still quieter (and smaller) than the stock pump.

 

[reeftivo]

Carefull with glass covers. Ph Drop! Co2 buildup!

The sump will help but ph will still drop. That was a problem for me with my old jbj until I ventilated the hood.

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

Carefull with glass covers. Ph Drop! Co2 buildup!

The sump will help but ph will still drop. That was a problem for me with my old jbj until I ventilated the hood.

Nice catch RT, I didn't think about the impact of limiting gas exchange.

 

[timdanger]

Carefull with glass covers. Ph Drop! Co2 buildup!

The sump will help but ph will still drop. That was a problem for me with my old jbj until I ventilated the hood.

pH drop would be due to the CO2 buildup due to gas exchange limitations, right?

but, wouldn't a sump/skimmer take care of most of that issue? it obviously won't be as good as with an open top, but it's not like a sealed off AIO or anything... right? or am i misinterpreting something?

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

pH drop would be due to the CO2 buildup due to gas exchange limitations, right?

but, wouldn't a sump/skimmer take care of most of that issue? it obviously won't be as good as with an open top, but it's not like a sealed off AIO or anything... right? or am i misinterpreting something?

Right - but, although you would think so - I don't believe it's enough. If the skimmer was enough, we wouldn't have the diurnal pH swings. I know it hard to reach equilibrium. A easy test is simply opening windows in the room containing the tank and pH will likely rise, even with a skimmer running. Some take the time to port their skimmer air line outside to help reduce Co2 and raise pH.

 

[reeftivo]

the diurnal pH swings are primarily because of the slowed metabolism of the animals and the micro/macro algaes. Thats why it's better to run alternating light cycles with fuges. The sump doesn't provide the surface gas exchange that the DT does and primarily relies on the skimmer and the drain for this. If you think about it, the skimmer is pulling many liters per minute through a tiny hole in a small area where Co2 and humidity are constantly in play. The surface area of the DT is a critical part of this process of exchange.

There are some scrubbers out there that attach to the air line of skimmers which claim to remove released Co2 before it can be pulled back into the skimmer. I have yet to try one though.

 

[reeftivo]

Anyone else dosing 2-part? If so, how much CA uptake do you have daily? I'm dosing 20 ml each daily plus maxing out kalk in the about 3/4 gallons a day of ATO to maintain 440 Ca with pH swings to 8.15-8.3.

I'm using 15ml of each daily but don't have the demand that you have so thats about right. your pH swing is normal so I wouldn't worry about that at all. Get that reactor up and running and slow dose kalk at night (1 drop every 10 to 15 seconds). Whats your alk at with the 20ml daily? Mine holds steady at 9 during the day and 8 in the morning before dosing. My calcium is at 460 and I try (more or less) to hold my mag at 1400 with kent suppliments. The elevated mag makes it much easier to hold higher calcium. It also helps keep down the dreaded undesirable algaes. If you keep the mag over 1500 it does affect the chaeto slightly.

 

[reeftivo]

heres a couple links to Co2 scubbers. Another pricey addition to an already expensive hobby-LOL! $75 bucks? Make your own!
They do sound pretty darn good though and the chemistry makes sense!
http://www.mcuresearch.com/bin/co2_manual.pdf
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/aquatic-supplies/MCU-CO2.html

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

Anyone else dosing 2-part? If so, how much CA uptake do you have daily? I'm dosing 20 ml each daily plus maxing out kalk in the about 3/4 gallons a day of ATO to maintain 440 Ca with pH swings to 8.15-8.3.

I'm using 15ml of each daily but don't have the demand that you have so thats about right. your pH swing is normal so I wouldn't worry about that at all. Get that reactor up and running and slow dose kalk at night (1 drop every 10 to 15 seconds). Whats your alk at with the 20ml daily? Mine holds steady at 9 during the day and 8 in the morning before dosing. My calcium is at 460 and I try (more or less) to hold my mag at 1400 with kent suppliments. The elevated mag makes it much easier to hold higher calcium. It also helps keep down the dreaded undesirable algaes. If you keep the mag over 1500 it does affect the chaeto slightly.

Ca 460-480, Alk 10, Mag 1350 (raising it a bit with ESV, but it takes forever.) I drip kalk top off water 24/7 (about 1 drop/second) and use the 2-part to support pH over night. Once I complete the new ATO, AWC and A2Part, I'll push most the Kalk overnight instead of 24/7.

 

[reeftivo]

those are really good numbers. with your stocking levels you are going to see a really big pull on your alk in the coming months so your reactor addition will be perfect.The reactor is basically a cabonate generator with the added bonus of calcium. If you ask some of the quality LFSs that carry nice frag tanks, many will say that they struggle to keep alk up and not calcium. There are a couple locally over here that have beautiful tanks but can't keep their alk above 8. Their corals seem to thrive in the lower alk levels rather than the higher levels.

 

[reeftivo]

Shoot! I'm sorry CalmSeasQuest!
I'm getting old! I have you confused with another reefer who just got an MRC calcium reactor like mine. Your member names confuse my few brain cells. He PM'd me for help getting it set up and I thought it was you!

Sorry about that. Your probably saying to yourself "what the hell is he talking about?-reactor?" His screen name is CalidreaminjC-oops! CalmSeasQuest/CalidreaminjC-oops!

tivo

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

Shoot! I'm sorry CalmSeasQuest!
I'm getting old! I have you confused with another reefer who just got an MRC calcium reactor like mine. Your member names confuse my few brain cells.

Sorry about that. Your probably saying to yourself "what the hell is he talking about?-reactor?" His screen name is CalidreaminjC-oops! CalmSeasQuest/CalidreaminjC-oops!

tivo

LOL - No worries RT I decided to stick with the Kalk/top off and 2-part for the time being. Automating those and water changes this weekend using the Apex, BRS dosing and top off pumps and 40 gallon Brutes <fingers crossed.>

 

[reeftivo]

Thanks for still corresponding with me after that brain fart-LOL! Your tank looks awsome and I'm sure your well on your way to a nice stable system. How do you like your Apex controller? I have been wanting to do 2 way water changes for a while now and keep meaning to sync my two peristaltic pumps to work but haven't had time yet. As you can see with the photos, I have my sps pretty high up to begin with so when I pull out 8-10 gallons during water changes, they get exposed. I baste them when they are exposed and have not had an issue but the two way change would be ideal.

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

How do you like your Apex controller? I have been wanting to do 2 way water changes for a while now and keep meaning to sync my two peristaltic pumps to work but haven't had time yet. As you can see with the photos, I have my sps pretty high up to begin with so when I pull out 8-10 gallons during water changes, they get exposed. I baste them when they are exposed and have not had an issue but the two way change would be ideal.

I LOVE the Apex, still learning some of the more advanced features, but it does everything I've asked of it and more. For the water change - It can control the pumps down to the second - so it should be easy to account for the differences in the pumps and gravity (basement UP to tanks and drain water DOWN to basement.) Still trying to decide how anal to get about fail safes and backup floats.

 

[reeftivo]

who needs fail safes and backups? I'd just quit my job and stay home to watch my tank. Too bad I can't find someone to pay me for taking care of my own tank.
I have the AC Jr and it works okay for me. The programming language was a PITA at first until I had a shot of Jack Daniels. I will have to check out the Apex and see if I can get it on my wish list!

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

I installed the 14K Phoenix - it's much bluer...

Stock lights

Phoenix 150W 14K w/ Giesemann Actinic+ T5s

Just the Phoenix

In real life, it's not quite as blue as the photos appear but it's a touch too blue for my tastes, but I'll leave it (especially since the AI LEDS ship next week ) The corals, especially the Zoas do "pop" a bit more...

IRL, this clove is much more brilliant

Here's a couple shots of the frag tank I'm setting up in the center section of the sump using the EvilPAR38 12K LED w/ 80 degree optics (sorry for the poor quality photos.)

So far, so good - it will take a while to see if the corals (especially the SPS) like it.

 

[ItsMee]

WOW! Your livestock is amazingly beautiful. I can't wait till my tank looks like that. I have not bouht any corals yet becaue I know I am going to move to california (from texASS) in about 7-9 months. Does anyone know of a good hardy, yet brilliant coral that will more-than-likely survive transportation of 2 days with a heater and airstone in a bucket? I already have the transportation all planned out. I have not yet bought sand for the same reason. Its killing me to not have any corals! I took a couple weeks off from RC and this thread grew almost as fast as my macro algae since then! Very interesting note: I put a rather large turbo snail in all the compartments of my sump/fuge except for the skimmer compartment to clean brown and red algae (works great BTW) that is caused by my fuge light that comes on when the display lights go off. The snail that I put in the compartment that the skimmer and overflow drain into (where the filter sock is) managed to somehow find his way to my skimmer compartment. Although he didn't have a chance to get hurt in my skimmer pump and all is good, I have been racking my brain trying to figure out how he accomplished this because it is physically impossible for his shell to fit in the small space between compartments. Do turbo snails go far enough out of the water to go up and over, and if so then why do they never crawl outside of the sump/display? Maybe I am underestimating thier intelligence and/or instinct???