CADlights 39g Pro build thread

[CalmSeasQuest]

Yes, I'm been reading the posts on the LED fixtures and would love to get one - esp. to help with summer heat. Unfortunately it goes to end of list behind transformer, RO/DI unit, ATO, clean up crew, corals, fish, etc, but maybe in front of a chiller!

Not in FRONT of chiller - INSTEAD of chiller. MY AI's impart ZERO heat to the tank. The only downside is, the heater runs a bit more

 

[coolcorals]

Not in FRONT of chiller - INSTEAD of chiller. MY AI's impart ZERO heat to the tank. The only downside is, the heater runs a bit more

I like that even better! Have a heater, so that'll work out. Unfortunately, LED lights are a far in the future purchase, but keep posting you experiences and photos.

 

[reeftivo]

I have decided to replace the filter sock and accept the weekly maintenance. As my system in heavy SPS (70+ pieces) I don't want to take any chances. I believe it would have surely resulted in a degradation in water quality over time. I may try a mesh sock instead of the felt, to see what if any impact is derived from allowing "some" smaller particles to remain.


I've done the mesh bag and for me it released way too many micros back into the system. If you look at all the successful 50g + systems, they all run socks. Our smaller systems can get by without them, but we would have to really work the rocks and sand bed much more to maintain water quality.

 

[reeftivo]

This has been an interesting test yielding some results that initially had me scratching my head. Here's what I observed...

- The 2-liter bubble trap works perfectly. The few micro-bubbles that initially escaped disappeared completely after a few days once a slime coat developed on the bottle. For those that want to go "Sans sock", it's a great solution.

- At first glance, my water test results were confusing. Even though "visibly" the water quality had degraded with large amounts of suspended debris and detritus - Initial and post test water quality tests were unchanged (within my testing limits using API) No detectable Po3, No3 - Ca=420, dKh=10. Even stranger - ORP has increased from an average of 280, to over 300 (and still climbing.)

- There was a LOT of sediment on all horizontal surfaces (as RT indicated.) The maintenance required to blast all the rocks in the DT and racks in the FT at least weekly would be more time consuming than simply swapping out a filter sock. Even so, the skimmer didn't seem to capture much of it. I think over time, this alone would have driven me back to the filter sock.

- SPS showed significant increases in PE BUT the Z & Ps were struggling (even lost a few new ones that were a bit weak to begin with.)

- Even stranger, Chaeto which had been rocking (despite no measurable phosphates) quickly began to whither. At present pace, it would be totally dead w/i a week. The small amount of hair algae in my systems (sump weirs and a few frags in the frag tank) has turned white and died - All in conflict with what I expected from an increased nutrient environment, especially since I had just cleaned my skimmer prior to this test resulting in a couple of days of no skimmate.

So this seemingly higher nutrient environment was acting more like a ULN system...then I figured it out.

About a week prior to this test, I began adding vinegar to my ATO/Kalk (300ml per 10 tsp Kalk/5 Gal RO/DI) to increase the Ca saturation and slightly lower the pH so I can keep up with evaporation (works great by the way.) One of the additional benefits of this (depending on dosing levels) is that it provides a Carbon source for beneficial bacteria (in the form of Acetate ions.)
I deduce that the addition on the carbon source and resulting increased "good" bacteria out-competed the algae resulted in the whithering of all algae in the system and likely skewed the water test results toward the positive.

I have decided to replace the filter sock and accept the weekly maintenance. As my system in heavy SPS (70+ pieces) I don't want to take any chances. I believe it would have surely resulted in a degradation in water quality over time. I may try a mesh sock instead of the felt, to see what if any impact is derived from allowing "some" smaller particles to remain.

Of course your results may vary but I'm glad I tried this - At least now I KNOW that for me, the benefits from the filter sock outweigh the additional maintenance.

If you're dosing vinegar or vodka, get a bacterial supplement and dose it with the carbon source or you may develope a monoculture. That would be where one bacteria out competes another and ultimately could result in hardly any nitrification. Many are dosing prodibio or fauna marine bacterial supplements with vinegar or vodka dosing to keep the diverse bacterial strains balanced.

Just a thought!

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

If you're dosing vinegar or vodka, get a bacterial supplement and dose it with the carbon source or you may develope a monoculture. That would be where one bacteria out competes another and ultimately could result in hardly any nitrification. Many are dosing prodibio or fauna marine bacterial supplements with vinegar or vodka dosing to keep the diverse bacterial strains balanced.

Just a thought!

Thanks RT,

I dose MB7 weekly with every new filter sock (Mostly out curiosity although I've never been able to measure any difference in anything as a result.)

So hopefully I've a diverse "critter collection"

My use of Vinegar in the kalk was to increase free Ca ions, and lower the pH slightly so I could keep up with evap. The bacterial benefit (assuming my guesses are correct) was something of a pleasant surprise.

I'll have to make a couple of changes - It looks like I can no longer support the Chaeto in the sump, and every spec of algae has disappeared, so I'll have to either supplement food for the clean up crew or relocate them.

 

[reeftivo]

Nice! Sounds like everything is balanced. With your MB7/vinegar dosing regimen, you are developing an LN environment. ULNS is more aggressive but the low nutrient environment you are creating is great as well. Have you noticed an increase in skimmate? You should! The carbon source helps bind the bad stuff (technical term-LOL) and allow it to be removed much better via skimming. Chaeto and softies don't like LNS. You may also start losing herbivorous snails as well because the algae dusting is lessened on all surfaces. Not many people would trade beautiful corals for algae and a clean up crew anyways-LOL.

The color chart test kits are good but to really see if you are achieving LNS you would need to get a Hanna PO4 meter. My Elos kit was measuring 0's every time, but when I started the Zeo method others recommended the Hanna because it measures down to 0.01 PO4. When I first tested my PO4 was 0.20 ppm which would measure as 0 on the standard kits. I now have a PO4 level of 0.02 using the zeo method. I know 0.20 doesn't sound like much (< 1 ppm) but the natural reefs are around 0.02 or less. Some phosphate is necessary but as you know, the lower the better.

If you need to supplement the CUC then hikari makes those nice little wafers that sink to the bottom and the hermits and snails love them. They don't pollute like the other foods I've used.

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

The sockless test and how well the Chaeto "had" been growing got me thinking about Phosphates. I've never been able to detect any with the API tests, so I ordered one of the $49 Hanna Checker Phosphate Photometers.

Another struggle has been with the AIs - LED lighting puts out so much more PAR compared to similar "looking" MH or T5 setups. As a result, I (and I think many new LED owners) end up blasting and bleaching many animals while we try to get it figured out. I'm still toying with different power settings and adjusting the height of the lights above the tank to finds the "sweet spot" that keeps the SPS on top and clams on the bottom happy, while not roasting the Zoas and other lower lights animals.

With the MaxSpect G2 160W on the way, and not wanting to cook even more livestock - I finally broke down and invested in a PAR meter (Apogee MQ-200.) This should allow me to map out the exact PAR settings at different depths/angles for fine tuning and also to accurately compare the 2 LED lighting systems.

140 Watts of 40 degree optic, AI Crees vs 160 Watts of no optic, MaxSpect Semi-LEDS... Should be interesting

 

[reeftivo]

My zoas are doing better since I moved them into a more shaded area. I noticed that once I started using passive carbon in combination with two zeo supplements called coral snow and sponge power, that the water became crystal clear (freakishly clear) and the zeo guide suggested to monitor the animals for light shock. That was definately the case for me because I noticed my highest acros and zoas fading. When I relocated the zoas there were some polyps that were still attached to the rocks at the higher levels and they are gone now. The acros adjusted but with the deeper light penetration, I could no longer keep the zoas, or any other lps for that matter, above mid level.

Looking forward to your PAR readings on both!

tivo

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

Have you noticed an increase in skimmate? You should! The carbon source helps bind the bad stuff (technical term-LOL) and allow it to be removed much better via skimming.

Wow Rt, nice call. I came home tonight to this...

The skimmate became so thick, it literally blew the top off the skimmer and the filter sock, just replaced yesterday that normally lasts a week is completely clogged and nearly overflowing - and that's the second sock replaced since I gave up on the sockless idea.

It should be fun watching to see what other changes develop, but for now, I gotta go wash socks

 

[meinestrasse]

Looking for some thoughts on a light fixture issue. Specifically, the LED moonlights. When I first plug in LED transformer, the lights come on normally, but after a few minutes (2-5 mins), they begin flickering. Also, the transformer is very hot to the touch.

Any thoughts or anyone had this issue? I have the older silver fixture, but I assume the LEDs are same (Class 2 Transformer, DC 3v 800mA). Not much info, but does it sound like it could be LEDs, fixture or transformer?

Transformer would be easiest to replace and the plug's heat just doesn't seem normal (I leave it unplugged).

coolcorals,

I have a brand new (never used) lighting fixture that just shipped with my new 39G Pro. It's the newest model. PM me if interested.

 

[reeftivo]

Wow Rt, nice call. I came home tonight to this...

The skimmate became so thick, it literally blew the top off the skimmer and the filter sock, just replaced yesterday that normally lasts a week is completely clogged and nearly overflowing - and that's the second sock replaced since I gave up on the sockless idea.

It should be fun watching to see what other changes develop, but for now, I gotta go wash socks

Now that's a "welcome" mess to come home to as opposed to an unproductive one!
:beer:

 

[coolcorals]

Looking forward to being able to empty a skimmer cup - looks like it's doing a great job.

I have a BC14 with PC lights. I plan to move a few coral frags to CAD. Since the CAD has MH, I know I have to acclimate the corals to the lights. Any suggestions? I've read about using eggcrate or screen. Would a layer or two of eggcrate work or do I need screen? Also, is there a danger either would melt under MH? How long does it typically take for corals to adjust?

 

[timdanger]

Now that's a "welcome" mess to come home to as opposed to an unproductive one!
:beer:

ack! that's disgusting... and awesome! :thumbsup:

my NAC3 has been pulling very little lately -- and, what it does pull is tea-colored, not that coffee-colored stuff i was pulling at first. i think i might need to clean the pump or something.

 

[timdanger]

The Z & Ps in my DT haven't been thriving, I believe due in part to too much light from my AI LEDS. As a result, I've decided to relegate many of them back to the frag tank, freeing up space for more clams that will happily bask in the LED glow

These two already reside in the display tank...

Blue Crocea

Blue Maxima


These are being delivered on Tuesday...

Soloman Islands Derasa

ORA First Grade Green Maxima

Blue and Gold Maximas

Time to crank up to 2-part dosing

those are fantastic clams -- i love them.

i decided to buy the 20k radium from a local guy -- got a pretty good discount on it. they're high par for 20k lights (higher than some 14k lamps), but i don't know whether they'd be enough for clams, especially if the clams were more toward the bottom of the tank.

 

[timdanger]

Thanks RT,

I dose MB7 weekly with every new filter sock (Mostly out curiosity although I've never been able to measure any difference in anything as a result.)

So hopefully I've a diverse "critter collection"

My use of Vinegar in the kalk was to increase free Ca ions, and lower the pH slightly so I could keep up with evap. The bacterial benefit (assuming my guesses are correct) was something of a pleasant surprise.

I'll have to make a couple of changes - It looks like I can no longer support the Chaeto in the sump, and every spec of algae has disappeared, so I'll have to either supplement food for the clean up crew or relocate them.

i've never done any carbon dosing myself (thought about it, though) -- but, i've read that if you are going to dose a carbon source, you have to keep your alk lower to keep from burning the tips of the corals (you probably know this already, but i'm just throwing it out there in case you hadn't thought of it). based on my cloudy recollection, i thought the recommended level was between 7-8dkh.

 

[reeftivo]

i've never done any carbon dosing myself (thought about it, though) -- but, i've read that if you are going to dose a carbon source, you have to keep your alk lower to keep from burning the tips of the corals (you probably know this already, but i'm just throwing it out there in case you hadn't thought of it). based on my cloudy recollection, i thought the recommended level was between 7-8dkh.

There are reports of burnt tips, but not all experience this. The dosing increases macrocultures of bacteria which are pulled out by skimming and could lower Oxygen a bit if not dosed properly. I believe the burt tips are from the increase in carbonate uptake of the corals. If the alk/pH is too high, this will result in quick uptake of more caustic carbonate. LNS systems require natural sea water alk of between 6.5 to 7.5 with 8 being the not to exceed. The levels sound low at first but when you think about it, the corals are taking up nutrients much easier and dont need the higher alk and ca ( alk 7 and ca 400-420 is fine).

 

[reeftivo]

ack! that's disgusting... and awesome! :thumbsup:

my NAC3 has been pulling very little lately -- and, what it does pull is tea-colored, not that coffee-colored stuff i was pulling at first. i think i might need to clean the pump or something.

NAC3 has caught up with the biodemand! Your initial heavy skimming was from the new rock and sand. They always slow down considerably once things balance out. The pictures most people see with black tar skimmate are carbon dosers or systems with heavy bioloads and feedings. Trust me, they don't get that skimmate with two fish and just a few corals. If they do, it's most likely not consistent.

Your fine!

 

[marinetankdiver]

ATO question for Reeftivo

ATO question for Reeftivo

Reeftivo -

I thought that you had posted pictures and info on what you are using for ATO but I can't find it now. I'm being "allowed" to move my ATO outside the stand as long as I can hide it well. I remember you saying that you found the boxes at Target but couldn't remember where you found the water containers.

Thanks

 

[Ycore]

I bought a bamboo hutch at Container Store. It holds a 4 Gallon jug, my Tom's pump, and tubing. It also comes with a waterproof vinyl liner in case there is some sort of leak.

Reeftivo -

I thought that you had posted pictures and info on what you are using for ATO but I can't find it now. I'm being "allowed" to move my ATO outside the stand as long as I can hide it well. I remember you saying that you found the boxes at Target but couldn't remember where you found the water containers.

Thanks

 

[marinetankdiver]

I bought a bamboo hutch at Container Store. It holds a 4 Gallon jug, my Tom's pump, and tubing. It also comes with a waterproof vinyl liner in case there is some sort of leak.
]

I like that, what type of water container did you use and what are the inside dimensions of the bamboo container? I saw that the Container Store says that the box is 15" square but it looks smaller at the base.

Thanks for the idea.