CADlights 39g Pro build thread
- Thread starter ArtC
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jsnicholas
New member
Re: Re: Stand
Re: Re: Stand
I have (am getting) the pro with the sump. The stand is cut out for the overflow, but they sent shelves too even though they can not be used. My guess is they just modified the signature stand. So it sound like I should take the center support out right?
Re: Re: Stand
I have (am getting) the pro with the sump. The stand is cut out for the overflow, but they sent shelves too even though they can not be used. My guess is they just modified the signature stand. So it sound like I should take the center support out right?
Re: Re: Re: Stand
Re: Re: Re: Stand
Yes, the Pro cabinet is a modification of the Signature cabinet.
Maybe they sent you the parts they should have taken out of the kit. But it is more important that they sent the part that should have been added.
The center support's primary function isn't to support the shelves but to support the front of the cabinet top under the weight of the tank.
Because the center support has to go to make room for the sump and bulkhead cutout, the front of the cabinet has to be reinforced. That's the 'front support (Z)' in my assembly instructions. The top inside of the left and right cabinet sides also need to be notched to accept the front support. Check that you have the front support and the notches - if so then you just have some extra parts. If not, somebody boxed up the cabinet before the mods were finished and you'll have to talk to your vendor about what to do.
Re: Re: Re: Stand
Yes, the Pro cabinet is a modification of the Signature cabinet.
Maybe they sent you the parts they should have taken out of the kit. But it is more important that they sent the part that should have been added.
The center support's primary function isn't to support the shelves but to support the front of the cabinet top under the weight of the tank.
Because the center support has to go to make room for the sump and bulkhead cutout, the front of the cabinet has to be reinforced. That's the 'front support (Z)' in my assembly instructions. The top inside of the left and right cabinet sides also need to be notched to accept the front support. Check that you have the front support and the notches - if so then you just have some extra parts. If not, somebody boxed up the cabinet before the mods were finished and you'll have to talk to your vendor about what to do.
jsnicholas
New member
Re: Re: Re: Re: Stand
Re: Re: Re: Re: Stand
My stand seems different. Instead of "Z", I have a 2 3/4"x27" (about) peice of wood the goes from the top to the bottom in the front. I will try to add a picture.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Stand
My stand seems different. Instead of "Z", I have a 2 3/4"x27" (about) peice of wood the goes from the top to the bottom in the front. I will try to add a picture.
That's a new thing to me... The cutout in the back is new, the reinforcement along the middle of the top is new. The two-panel back is in the original instructions but my black Pro has a single panel.
The construction of the cherry Pro cabinet is not exactly the same as the construction of the black Pro cabinet, and is much more a mod of the original cabinet instructions (presumably for the cherry Signature.) That makes sense, because cherry wood has different mechanical properties than the particle board used in the black cabinet, and you want need each design to distribute the stresses from the tank appropriately for the material used.
Send the picture to sales@cadlights.com and ask Eddie what you are supposed to do.
From what I remember of the dimensions, it might be possible to fit the sump behind the vertical support, but you would have to insert the sump before you installed the vertical support. And then you'd never get it out again.
Whatever the answer - post it here when you're done.
Looks like I might have to revise my assembly instructions to say "black cabinet only"
And for this setup, you would want to put a foot front and center, right under the vertical support.
The construction of the cherry Pro cabinet is not exactly the same as the construction of the black Pro cabinet, and is much more a mod of the original cabinet instructions (presumably for the cherry Signature.) That makes sense, because cherry wood has different mechanical properties than the particle board used in the black cabinet, and you want need each design to distribute the stresses from the tank appropriately for the material used.
Send the picture to sales@cadlights.com and ask Eddie what you are supposed to do.
From what I remember of the dimensions, it might be possible to fit the sump behind the vertical support, but you would have to insert the sump before you installed the vertical support. And then you'd never get it out again.
Whatever the answer - post it here when you're done.
Looks like I might have to revise my assembly instructions to say "black cabinet only"
And for this setup, you would want to put a foot front and center, right under the vertical support.
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The Mysterious "Part Z"
The Mysterious "Part Z"
I realized I didn't have a good picture in the thread.
I named "front support - Part Z" because it wasn't in the original instructions for my black Pro cabinet.
Marked with green tape in the picture.
The ends of Z are inserted into cutouts in the two cabinet sides.
The cherry cabinet apparently has a vertical front support - we are are working on that.
Current belief is that Signature black and Signature cherry cabinets are constructed differently, and the Pro version of each type is a mod of the respective Signature cabinet.
The Mysterious "Part Z"
I realized I didn't have a good picture in the thread.
I named "front support - Part Z" because it wasn't in the original instructions for my black Pro cabinet.
Marked with green tape in the picture.
The ends of Z are inserted into cutouts in the two cabinet sides.
The cherry cabinet apparently has a vertical front support - we are are working on that.
Current belief is that Signature black and Signature cherry cabinets are constructed differently, and the Pro version of each type is a mod of the respective Signature cabinet.
jsnicholas
New member
What I found out from Eddie was that the sump needs to be put in from the top and then the top is attached after the sump is inside. The sump therefore can not be removed while the tank is there. This may be discourging, but it looks like a nice sump and I do not antisipate needing to replace it. Interestingly, the bar is there for support, but I think the stand is plenty strong with out it. But Eddie pointed out that the bar also acts as a vissual block and a phyical stop for the doors. There is a small gap between the doors when they are closed and this peice of wood makes it so you can not see in the cabinet and light from inside the cabinet (from the refugium light) will not come out.
On another note, Eddie cannot locate yet my lost tank, but he will send me another on Monday while he continues to fight it out with DHL. What great service and a great product from a little company.
Automatic top-off
Automatic top-off
I'm not sure if it's a temporary or permanent special, but my system included an ATO that was backlogged and just arrived.
The ATO includes the mount and the switch - the water is up to you.
The hose connection is a little unusual - a plastic compression fitting. Just push the hose straight through the nut so that it sticks out the back a little, and then screw the nut on.
To install the ATO correctly, you need to have 1/8" hose and a water source with the hose running down in to it.
Consider the volume of your freshwater reservoir. ATOs are notorious for getting stuck in the ON position. Giant snail crawls onto float and weights it down, salt creep, hinge pinches your gem tang's head... So it is probably safer to assume that the whole reservoir will be released at once some day. If you keep the volume less than the air space in the sump, then you won't get a flood or reduce salinity so much that your livestock suffers.
If you want to plumb ATO directly to an RO, I don't think this swithc was made for that kind of pressure. In any case you should have a secondary safety system to keep a stuck switch from pumping 50 gallons of fresh water into your 39g tank. Plenty of options described elsewhere in ReefCentral.
Install mount, connect water, run return pump into a bucket until you find it sucking air. Set float level and let it run until level comes back up and that ATO shuts off at the right point. Repeat as needed. If you already have life in your tank, make sure to do this experiment with a saltwater supply rather than fresh.
If you set the hose to siphon, you'll need to prime the siphon.
Install the ATO in the front of the pump chamber - that is where the level changes when water evaporates from the system.
Figure out where the pump starts sucking air - you want the ATO
to kick in just before the level drops to there. So slide the float switch along the mount until the flow starts there.
Automatic top-off
I'm not sure if it's a temporary or permanent special, but my system included an ATO that was backlogged and just arrived.
The ATO includes the mount and the switch - the water is up to you.
The hose connection is a little unusual - a plastic compression fitting. Just push the hose straight through the nut so that it sticks out the back a little, and then screw the nut on.
To install the ATO correctly, you need to have 1/8" hose and a water source with the hose running down in to it.
Consider the volume of your freshwater reservoir. ATOs are notorious for getting stuck in the ON position. Giant snail crawls onto float and weights it down, salt creep, hinge pinches your gem tang's head... So it is probably safer to assume that the whole reservoir will be released at once some day. If you keep the volume less than the air space in the sump, then you won't get a flood or reduce salinity so much that your livestock suffers.
If you want to plumb ATO directly to an RO, I don't think this swithc was made for that kind of pressure. In any case you should have a secondary safety system to keep a stuck switch from pumping 50 gallons of fresh water into your 39g tank. Plenty of options described elsewhere in ReefCentral.
Install mount, connect water, run return pump into a bucket until you find it sucking air. Set float level and let it run until level comes back up and that ATO shuts off at the right point. Repeat as needed. If you already have life in your tank, make sure to do this experiment with a saltwater supply rather than fresh.
If you set the hose to siphon, you'll need to prime the siphon.
Install the ATO in the front of the pump chamber - that is where the level changes when water evaporates from the system.
Figure out where the pump starts sucking air - you want the ATO
to kick in just before the level drops to there. So slide the float switch along the mount until the flow starts there.
new dual cooling fan
new dual cooling fan
CADlights sent me a new version of their evaporative cooling fan.
It consists of two of the original fans in a plastic case with mounting brackets and power switch built in.
If CADlights didn't get this made special, you can't tell by looking at it.
I believe this is the new standard fan for 39g systems.
Mounts over the overflow, pointing down.
new dual cooling fan
CADlights sent me a new version of their evaporative cooling fan.
It consists of two of the original fans in a plastic case with mounting brackets and power switch built in.
If CADlights didn't get this made special, you can't tell by looking at it.
I believe this is the new standard fan for 39g systems.
Mounts over the overflow, pointing down.
The only reasons I can think of for moving a sump are leaks, replacing with a custom sump, or moving. I ran my sump on the counter to check for leaks, you are already getting a custom sump, and if you move then you take the tank off the cabinet anyway. Not to worry.
I did once put a false vertical support in a cabinet to block the light when I had a big refugium on reverse cycle. But the doors on my black cabinet close fine.
Actually, the Pro system includes:
39G custom glass tank w/ acrylic overflow
9.5G custom glass sump
Custom light fixture - 15W HQI, 2xT-5, 2xLED, cooling fan in fixture
Skimmer
Skimmer pump
Return pump (700 gph)
Durso
Lockline returns
all soft hose and PVC
dual fan evaporative cooler
UV sterilizer
bioballs and fiter pad for microbubble chamber
7W refugium light
glass tank lid
If you do the math with all the extra equipment that this setup comes with - $800 is not bad at all! Plus just the convenience factor of not having to search for lights, skimmers, all the plumbing gear, etc really makes it a great buy. It just sucks that I don't live close enough for pick up =/.
I'm definitely sold on it am I'm planning on order it this weekend!
Art. C - thanks for this thread, it'll definitely help me out when setting my CADLIGHT up. Keep up the good work and pictures! I can't wait to see it fully setup!
I'm definitely sold on it am I'm planning on order it this weekend!
Art. C - thanks for this thread, it'll definitely help me out when setting my CADLIGHT up. Keep up the good work and pictures! I can't wait to see it fully setup!
Oh yeah, electric
Oh yeah, electric
Now that I'm wiring the system, I thought I'd add up the plugs needed.
Light fixture:
1. 150W HQI subsystem 110V plug
2. T-5 subsystem 110V plug
3. LED subsystem transformer block
Tank:
4. Evaporative cooling fan transformer block
Sump:
5. Skimmer pump 110V plug
6. Return pump 110V plug
7. Refugium light transformer block
If you wanna:
8. UV sterilizer light w/inline switch
Probably oughta:
9. Heater (not included with system) 110V plug
You might want timers for HQI, T-5, and refugium light.
I went to Lowes and bought a four outlet GFI extension to run into the cabinet for things that are on 24/7.
Now I'm wondering whether to hook up an AC III for a nano... really nothing to control but the lights, but I might set it up for monitoring.
Total amps: 1+1+0+0+1+2+0+0+2= (roughly) 9A, so you ought to be good on one 15A circuit.
Oh yeah, electric
Now that I'm wiring the system, I thought I'd add up the plugs needed.
Light fixture:
1. 150W HQI subsystem 110V plug
2. T-5 subsystem 110V plug
3. LED subsystem transformer block
Tank:
4. Evaporative cooling fan transformer block
Sump:
5. Skimmer pump 110V plug
6. Return pump 110V plug
7. Refugium light transformer block
If you wanna:
8. UV sterilizer light w/inline switch
Probably oughta:
9. Heater (not included with system) 110V plug
You might want timers for HQI, T-5, and refugium light.
I went to Lowes and bought a four outlet GFI extension to run into the cabinet for things that are on 24/7.
Now I'm wondering whether to hook up an AC III for a nano... really nothing to control but the lights, but I might set it up for monitoring.
Total amps: 1+1+0+0+1+2+0+0+2= (roughly) 9A, so you ought to be good on one 15A circuit.
ProdigalPoster
Member
With this sized tank and the 150 HQI would you be able to do full SPS or would you be limited to the upper levels?
ronbis
Premium Member
I think you could do SPS with that light.
Does that fan pivot? I want to get one for my sump but it has bracing on the top so it would be mounted horizontally instead of vertically like yours. It looks like it pivots so that I could aim it down into the sump. Sweet looking setup. I spent a lot more for my setup and it takes a lot of work to get everything to fit, etc..
Does that fan pivot? I want to get one for my sump but it has bracing on the top so it would be mounted horizontally instead of vertically like yours. It looks like it pivots so that I could aim it down into the sump. Sweet looking setup. I spent a lot more for my setup and it takes a lot of work to get everything to fit, etc..
