CADlights 39g Pro build thread

Thanks for the great review on the B-M skimmer. I'm looking forward to getting mine when they ship next month.

Beautiful Jawfish as well, I'm just haven't decided if I'm willing to cover the tank for one. Looking forward to your screen build.
 
My DIY lid

Alright kids, so to refresh everyone's memory, I needed to construct a top for my Cad 39g Pro to keep my new bluespot jawfish, JAWS, from carpet-surfing. My goals/requirements for the lid were, in order:

1) no carpet-surfing jawfish, so I had to keep the holes no bigger than 1/4" (3/8" might've been ok, but I was happier with the 1/4" threshold).

2) allow for as much evaporative cooling as possible to keep my tank temperatures at a reasonable level, because I will be suicidal if I end up having to waste money on a chiller. However, I am wary of using plastic mesh/pond netting because I do not want it to melt under the halide, which is positioned 3" above the top of my glass and 4" above my water line. I cannot use galvanized metal because of the zinc content, which I understand is problematic for inverts.

3) minimize lost par as best I can, especially from the halide, but with the understanding that the above two requirements have to take precedence.

As an aside, it's a very good thing I built this -- the first night we had Jaws, my wife and I woke up hearing splashing and a "thump" against the top as Jaws attempted his first escape. However, the top held him in, and he lives to screw up my sandbed another day!

Now, on to the project:

First, I bought a piece of light diffuser/eggcrate from Lowe's. The holes in it are about 1/2", and they are decidedly wider than even a fully-grown jawfish body. However, I address this issue later. Before I do anything, I remove the lights and use scissors to snip the eggcrate roughly to the size of the tank from left-to-right. I line up the corner of the eggcrate with the left back "outside" corner of the tank and then straight back on the right side (you can, of course, do it the other way - this was just easier for me), being sure to cut it to size at the outside of the glass so that it fits securely on top of the tank.
DSC_0096.jpg


Next, I need to make notches in the eggcrate to accomodate the "feet" of the fan over my overflow. First, I line up the corners again, and I then take a marker and mark to the outside of the feet, being careful to cut as little as possible so that there no jawfish "escape hatches." I cut one square deep into the eggcrate, which is about perfect for the fan feet. This really helps with keeping the lid in place and precisely on top of the tank. Note that I could also have cut out spots for the light "feet," but I decided against it, since the lights will help hold the top in place and counter-balance the weight of the glass in the middle. it also lifts the light off the glass/water a little bit more, so hopefully that will help with temperatures (I can't imagine it will matter much, though).
DSC_0097.jpg


Next, I have purchased an 11x14" piece of glass for a picture frame from a crafts store, which I am going to use directly underneath the halide to 1) help minimize lost par from the use of the eggcrate and 2) get the plastic out from underneath the halide (although I am not as worried about eggcrate melting as I am about pond netting). The eggcrate will serve as a "table" support for the glass around the edges (which is why I bought 11x14 when I would only realistically need 8x10 to accommodate the halide). So, I need to cut a hole in the middle of the eggcrate for the glass. I do this by sliding the eggcrate into place on top of the tank, placing the light on top of the eggcrate, centering (roughly) the glass beneath the halide.
DSC_0099.jpg


side view:
DSC_0100.jpg


I then measured 2 squares (on the eggcrate) in toward the center at each corner of the glass (so, e.g., as you look at it from the front, I measured 2 squares down from the top left corner, then 2 squares right from the top left corner, and marked that point on the eggcrate. I then began cutting away the eggcrate within these 4 points. Here's what it looks like with the glass hole fully cut-out. I wound up cutting one additional square around the hole, to allow more light from the actinics, but it also lessens the amount of support for the glass, so that's just an option:
DSC_0102.jpg


Next, I have to cut the eggcrate to the curve of the front of the tank. First I mark it, which I do by simply sticking the eggcrate on top and sliding it straight back into the fan foot holes. At that point, it should be even on the three already-measured sides (and if it's not, you can mark more to trim off). I then make a mark on the bottom of the eggcrate by sliding the marker along the front of the glass like a stencil. I then remove the top and take a dremel with a "sanding disc" (I don't know what these are actually called), and cut along the line that I've drawn as best I can. This will not be perfect, but we cover it up later, so it's ok if it's not. In addition to shaping the front of the lid at this time, I also made a small cover for the overflow out of the leftover eggcrate. This serves as both additional support for the lid and to keep fish out of the overflow. I simply cut the eggcrate to roughly overlap the length/width of the overflow, that's it. Then, I set the lid on top of that.
DSC_0104.jpg


Now for my secret weapon against jawfish surfing: fiberglass window mesh. I bought a roll of this from Lowe's, rolled it out on top of the eggcrate, and cut it so that it overlapped about 2" on all sides (roughly). I then folded up the back corners around the eggcrate, creating a sort of "coating" around the edges, and sewed them in place. I then roughly folded the mesh along the curved front half and sewed it in place at the front corners and once in the middle. This looks better than it sounds, although there were probably better options than sewing -- but it was getting late and both I and Jaws were getting antsy by this point. I then cut out holes in the mesh where the glass will go and where the fan's feet will go.
DSC_0105.jpg


So, I then slide the lid back on top of the tank, stick the glass piece in place, remount the lights, and voila, I'm done!
DSC_0106.jpg
 
And, some more views (note: the ripple of the mesh in the back could easily be fixed by just pulling it taught - it was a rushed job by the end, as it ticked closer to midnight!! I just didn't notice this before I took these pictures). And please forgive my algae-covered glass - I'm trying to make sure my algae blenny doesn't starve...! (that seems like a plausible excuse, right?):

Close-up
DSC_0108.jpg


Standing height
DSC_0107.jpg


Lower height
DSC_0114.jpg


Overhead Lights on in the room:
DSC_0109.jpg


Lights off in the room
DSC_0112.jpg
 
Nice top! Great work. Do you need to take the light off to take the top off? I was just wondering how big of a pain it is to get in the tank? I have seen lots of people talking about micro bubbles. I never did have much issue with them once my skimmer settled in. I have LR packed in the first chamber, in the fuge area I put in some Chaeto along with a reactor and a reactor in the return chamber. I'm also using a Rio 20HF for the return pump. I had to put a gate valve on it to slow it down a little but I run it as fast as the overflow will handle. I like the extra flow. I have been thinking about re-doing my rocks to make either one pile in the center or maybe two piles with one reaching all the way to the surface. I'm not sure yet though, it's a lot of work lol. But I probably should do it before all the corals grow in a little bit more. It gets tough once things are grown in. I'm going to pick up a bunch of new sps stuff from a fellow reefer on Sunday so will probably be changing some of the sps around and moving some of the pieces over to my frag tank. Here are a few update photos I took today. I haven't cleaned the glass for a couple days so excuse the ugly glass. I should get on that in the next day or two and post a couple pics then. All these pics are with all the tank lights on.
Here is an updated pic of the Bubble-Magus. It's breaking in really well and now its just fine tuning that I have been doing. It's so easy to adjust I find myself messing with it too much lol. So I'm going to let it run for a few days just like this and see where that gets me.
Oct27001.jpg


Here you can see how I have the rock piled in there. I think between it in this chamber and the Chaeto in the fuge it helps break up the bubbles. Maybe it's too packed in there I dont know. I thought about doing like a few others and putting some in a bag to rinse but I haven't yet lol. There are TONS of pods living in there and I don't want to disturb them lol.
Oct27002.jpg


It took some doing but I managed to get a couple of reactors in there. They each have a small maxi-jet 400 on them. One runs GFO and the other carbon.
Oct27003.jpg


I just harvested a bunch of chaeto out this last weekend to give to a fellow reefer here but you can see the now small ball in there with a little nano koralia to help with some extra flow.
Oct27005.jpg


A little tough to see but I have a Rio 20HF in there for my return pump. I put it on a gate valve to restrict the flow a little bit. I do run it fast though, I run it as fast as the overflow will handle. I know some people like the return to go slower for more contact time in the sump, but I feel like it doesn't make a difference and like the flow.
Oct27008.jpg


Here are a couple of tank shots. I didn't close the curtains in the living room so you get some window reflections and they are sort of crappy pics but I thought I would post them anyways. I'll try to get some better ones soon.
Oct27011.jpg


Some of the sps were just put in there this morning and are not where they will be staying I just hadn't decided yet and was sort of seeing how they would do under this light.
This is the right side of the tank
Oct27012.jpg

Left side and the start of my zoo garden. Not too many in there yet
Oct27024.jpg

post is getting long lol. I'll start another.
 
Just a few corals in my front sand bed in the cove/cave area.
Oct27014.jpg


Some of the colors washed out with the ambient light and the camera, but you can sort of get an idea of some of the stuff.
Oct27020.jpg


The clown goby likes to hang out in those two corals. You can see where he hangs in the hammer by the couple heads that are closed up.
Oct27028.jpg

corals110.jpg

corals036.jpg

corals088.jpg

corals171.jpg


Getting some nice sps corals on Sunday. I can't wait. Anyways it's really hard to show colors in these pics. All the blues and purples washed out to white and brown lol. I'll have to play with the camera and get some good shots next week when I get the new corals in there.
Oct27023.jpg

Oct27016.jpg

Oct27029.jpg
 
great pics!

a lot of very impressive work there. i'm most impressed with the 2nd picture in your 2nd post, those green/purple/yellowish-orange with bright green center.. acans..? (i'm not great at IDing). please let me know if you're ever fragging that, though!
 
also, wow -- i've never seen so many koralias in such a small tank! you've even got one in your sump! and then there's the Rio 20HF, the two maxi-jets on the reactors, the skimmer pump...

what's your tank temperature like? you've got a lot of powerheads in there!
 
Lol yeah I had a lot of powerheads in a box in the garage. This weekend I put all those in there. I had in the display a koralia 2 and 3. I thought I would try something different for a little while so I took the #3 out and put in 3 koaralia #1's. So now there is a #2 and 3 #1's in there, and when I was going through the box I found a couple of nanos so I put a nano in this fuge and in the fuge in my frag tanks lol. The temp runs high 70's. Koralias don't produce much heat and neither does that Rio and I'm not sure but the small max-jets shouldn't make much difference since they are only 400s, but your right that's a LOT of pumps. haha I'm not sure if I'll leave it like that or take all the #1s out and put the #3 back in. I thought I would try it out and see how the corals liked the flow. I put them on a JBJ wavemaker thing so all the #1's fire off at intervals while the #2 stays on full time. Not sure how I like it. I will be asking for an MP10 or 20 for Christmas though I think.
The Acans are Jokers. They grow pretty fast too so I imagine I will be fragging them before too long. Thanks for the compliments on the pics.
 
OH I was looking at the wrong picture. I think you were looking at the coral under that ledge. It's sort of an unidentified coral. Some say it's a favia but the heads can get really to big to be a Favid. I have seen it listed as Prism Favia or Dragon Soul Favia and of course unidentified. It grows really fast there. I started that frag from 1 mouth. I'll try to get a better picture of it posted, that picture doesn't do it much justice but your right it's really a bright piece with tons of different colors in it.
 
Hey Tim I just wanted to point something out I noticed in your pics. It looks like your return lines the loc-line is pretty low in your tank. I'm not sure if you have checked how much water will flow back into your sump if you shut off your return pump but be careful they don't sit too low in the water or you may have a flood =). You could always drill a small hole in the top to break the siphon or something or maybe you have it covered, I just didn't want you to end up with a mess.
 
some updates on the bubble-magus skimmer, after 1 week of operation (pics taken friday night):

This syrup is the FIRST WEEK of skimmate - most of it from the last 3 days!

DSC_0001-4.jpg


DSC_0002-4.jpg


DSC_0003-1.jpg


sadly, i was performing a water change today and forgot to turn it off before killing power to the return pump, causing it to overflow a bunch of the collected goo back into the system. sigh. at least i caught it relatively quickly. it still hasn't quite re-adjusted (or maybe i just haven't found the sweet spot). in any event, you've gotta be happy about this kind of production in the first week of use, right? :dance:
 
Well, I have been noticing a lot of humid air in the sump area of the stand. My hinges are starting to rust and it's just too damp down there so I thought I would install some computer fans in the stand to create some air circulation through there. I made one computer fan suck air from outside the stand and the other fan blows the air from inside the stand out. So now there is a good flow of air through the stand and it made a really big difference. You can really tell it's much dryer down there when you open the doors. I put in these plastic covers to try to make it look a little more professional on the outside. I also used silicone around the inside where the hole was cut so the bare particle board of the stand wouldn't be subjected to water and causing problems with the wood swelling and falling apart. I think it came out really good. Another pro is it dropped my tank temp 1.5 degrees so that was a nice little plus.
FanUpgrade003.jpg


FanUpgrade001.jpg


FanUpgrade007.jpg


FanUpgrade012.jpg
 
several people i know have complained about rust on the hinges -- condensation in the cabinet is absolutely an issue. this would make me extremely nervous about having any outlets/other electrical equipment (other than the stuff that's meant to get wet) in the stand cabinet.

1.5 degree drop in temperature, you say? very interesting.

where'd you get those covers?

the more i think about it, the more i believe i'll be performing this mod or something like it. my main concern was that cutting out those holes would potentially destabilize the stand's support structure (but i'm not an engineer, so i'm really just blindly paranoid about it).

because of this, I was thinking about installing them on the non-weight bearing cabinet doors instead of in the cabinet walls. i have no idea about whether it would effect the cooling efficiency. main drawback, though, was light leakage. tank is in my bedroom, and my sump light is on at night, alternating with the actinics.

a vented cover like the one you've got there is something that someone had suggested -- i'm not sure that particular one would work, but i like the concept. where'd you find those?
 
I got the covers from Rockler. They were like $5 each or something like that. They have a web page and I just ordered them from there. My lights are on a reverse photo period as well and with the cover you don't get any light through there. That hole shouldn't affect the stands stability. I'm no engineer either but the amount of material I removed isn't much and there is plenty around it. I'm not worried about it falling or anything. If you do make the cut you might want to silicone around it like I did just to make sure the moisture won't get into the wood since you have an unfinished area after the cut.
There is no way I would put any electronics in that stand as wet as it is. I might now though. It seemed to dry it out a lot. Personally I would keep the expensive electronics that aren't supposed to get wet on the outside. You never know if something weird like a hose busting might happen lol. Anyways I was amazed at how dry it got almost right away and there is a nice flow of air through there now with a fan pulling outside air in and one blowing air out. The fans I just ordered from the first fan place google brought up when I searched computer fans lol. Then I just spliced the wires into an adjustable AC/DC converter I bought at Wal-Mart for $15.
 
Beautiful job on the fans Gillundr. I thought about the same, but the existing MH fan is already so loud, I couldn't stand the thought of adding any more fans. I took the easy way out and placed all the electronics outside of the cabinet. Keep an eye on the exhaust fan, the high salt and moisture content flowing though it will likely shorten it's life and require additional cleaning (both fans blowing air in using the existing cable holes in the back for exhaust might correct that if it becomes a bother keeping it clean.)

The extra cooling would be nice but comes at the expense of more evaporation. I'm too far to plumb water from my RO, so I try to get 1 week out of the 2.5 gal Aquadoser I installed in the cabinet for Kalk and top off.

The new B-M skimmer looks like it's a huge improvement over stock. I'm looking forward to the 25th when CadLights starts shipping.
 
The fans are cheap computer fans. I bought 4 of them on sale for $10 so I have more if something becomes a problem. They make no noise right now who knows if that will change down the road. Like you said the other fans are pretty noisy already these honestly don't add any noise to the mix. If they do become a problem they are easy enough to turn around or take out all together. I imagine just having the extra holes without fans in them would still help keep things a little dryer down there.
The skimmer is nice. I turned mine around in that compartment to sit in there the same as the other guy that has the bubble magus. It's easier to see the numbers on the adjustment but it seems like it gets in the way a little more this way. I may end up putting it back to the way the picture shows. I sort of like the adjustment thing being out of the way a little more. I didn't ever look at the numbers anyways, I just sort of went by what the skinmate looked like.
 
re: skimmer orientation, i ended up setting it that way just because it's how it ended up fitting best. i wanted to position it like they have it in the pictures on the cadlights website, with the wedge pipe in the right-near corner (as you face the tank). that would really make it easier to tune. however, my drain hose gets in the way and ended up tilting the skimmer a little bit. the picture on the cadlights website shows the sump as being hard-plumbed, so the drain pipe comes up-and-over the skimmer and right down into the drain chamber.

it bums me out, because when it's turned this way, i can't see any of the sweet bubble-magus stickers!

in all seriousness though, i'm not sure what difference it makes which way it's oriented in the chamber.
 
one thing i will say about the bubble-magus -- is yours getting what seems to be a lot of turbulence? i'm getting very fine bubbles in the neck, but even with the bubble plate, i get a lot of turbulence.

i have no idea if it even makes a difference -- i know practically nothing about skimmers, other than "i like it when they pull out a bunch of thick, syrupy gunk" (which this skimmer, decidedly, does).
 
Just got back from vacation and before I left I set up the Bubble Magus so it could break in. I hung my ATB on the back of the tank so I could skim well while the Magus was getting conditioned. When I returned from my trip the huge cup on my ATB was full and the Magus was filled with weak tea. I'm excited after seeing the previous pics but I'm not sure whether or not I like all the turbulence at the air water line. I have the skimmer in 7 3/4 inches of water right now and I'm getting decent skim but not what it should be. I will reverse the skimmer tonight and try different levels to see if it helps production. I have my skimmer set so the stand pipe is up front on the left side of the chamber and I'm hoping after it's reversed it will perform better. I haven't had a chance to get pics but my dwyer meter is fluctuating between 280 and 300 lph of air (very good). I've also noticed that my foam head will rise and be stable for a while then will drop out. May or may not be the atman pump.

Jury is still out for me but I'm glad to see it's working well for others.
 
Back
Top