Think I should get the 20F then or should I still go 26F? I planned on putting a valve off the tee to the fuge, what about to the DT? And so I should add a valve right at the outlet of the pump too? What should I do to make sure I don't cause a huge flood when I plug everything in? Sorry I'm a newb to all this, thanks for all the help
CADlights 39g Pro build thread
- Thread starter ArtC
- Start date
Gillundr
New member
Those pumps are strong I would do the 20. It will be more than enough I would think and you will still need a valve on the 20. I have one as my return and it runs a lot faster than the overflow can handle so it needs to be dialed back a touch. Depends on the price diff and if your looking for upgrades down the road I think but if it's a good savings I would maybe use the 20 and spend the extra loot on filter floss hehe
I'll take a photo of this algae tomorrow. Got busy today. It's for sure not slime. Slime is wussy stuff compared to this. This stuff there is no way to pull it off the rock. Looks like red chaeto sort of but it's on there like no tomorrow. To get it off you have to take the top layer of rock with it.
I'll take a photo of this algae tomorrow. Got busy today. It's for sure not slime. Slime is wussy stuff compared to this. This stuff there is no way to pull it off the rock. Looks like red chaeto sort of but it's on there like no tomorrow. To get it off you have to take the top layer of rock with it.
reeftivo
Skim junkie
does it look like this?
http://www.com.univ-mrs.fr/IRD/atollpol/ecorecat/images/chonmin.jpg
Could be Rhodophyta or the calcerous algae in the link. If it's the calcerous then I wouldn't worry. If it's the Rhodophyta then it may become a problem. A long spine urchin will eat it but may nibble at montipora if you have them. Those suckers eat everything except bryopsis. Coralline included.
Get that pic Buddy!
Tivo
http://www.com.univ-mrs.fr/IRD/atollpol/ecorecat/images/chonmin.jpg
Could be Rhodophyta or the calcerous algae in the link. If it's the calcerous then I wouldn't worry. If it's the Rhodophyta then it may become a problem. A long spine urchin will eat it but may nibble at montipora if you have them. Those suckers eat everything except bryopsis. Coralline included.
Get that pic Buddy!
Tivo
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reeftivo
Skim junkie
As Mr Gillundr:thumbsup: mentioned, the 20F will be fine. I would get 2 Two Little Fishes ball valves (Marine Depot) and run one off the main pump and the other after the "T" or "Y" to the fuge. They (Two Little Fishes valves) are smaller than the bigger PVC style and will work better with more room to fiddle. I can't remember if the I.D> is 5/8 or 3/4. If you get the 3/4 valves and they are big, the vinyl should still be able to fit over if you use a hair dryer to soften the tubing. Sorry for my bad memory but sounds like you are well on your way to a cool fuge system!
Oh, the chances of over filling the fuge too quickly are possible if your drain from the bulkhead is too small but you'll be fine as long as you start with the valve off the pump and the "Y" half open. Then you can adjust more or less from there.
Take care!
Tivo
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CalmSeasQuest
Active member
Been a while since I posted - here's a bit of an update...
Regarding the stock return pump - Running a 20F here and it's plenty, in fact I have to dial it back a bit. Major improvement in flow, heat and size over stock.
Still waiting for the pre-ordered BM skimmer - Eddie says they shipped yesterday.
Here's an updated pic - tank is running well, still trying to get pH/Alk dialed in using a weak Kalk top off and daily B-Ionic. pH ranges daily from 8.35 - 8.46 so it limits addition of 2 part alk.
SPS seems happy but I'm wondering if a different bulb (maybe Phoenix 14K) might provide better color.
I also think 150 watts is a bit light for a primarily SPS tank, (lost a beautiful Maxima clam) but not sure if I should sink more $$$ into this tank, or just put towards 180 planned for the near future.
Finally got pod production up high enough to support a Red Mandarin that was on the wish list.
Just ordered a Via Aqua Reactor for AC (and Phosban if ever needed)
Water parameters are stable, can't measure any phosphates, nitrites or nitrates, Ca is 450+, Alk 9 and Mag around 1400 with 325 ORP.
All in all - tank is maturing nicely for being up for only 60 days since cycle completion- starting to see Coraline develop in high flow areas.
Regarding the stock return pump - Running a 20F here and it's plenty, in fact I have to dial it back a bit. Major improvement in flow, heat and size over stock.
Still waiting for the pre-ordered BM skimmer - Eddie says they shipped yesterday.
Here's an updated pic - tank is running well, still trying to get pH/Alk dialed in using a weak Kalk top off and daily B-Ionic. pH ranges daily from 8.35 - 8.46 so it limits addition of 2 part alk.
SPS seems happy but I'm wondering if a different bulb (maybe Phoenix 14K) might provide better color.
I also think 150 watts is a bit light for a primarily SPS tank, (lost a beautiful Maxima clam) but not sure if I should sink more $$$ into this tank, or just put towards 180 planned for the near future.
Finally got pod production up high enough to support a Red Mandarin that was on the wish list.
Just ordered a Via Aqua Reactor for AC (and Phosban if ever needed)
Water parameters are stable, can't measure any phosphates, nitrites or nitrates, Ca is 450+, Alk 9 and Mag around 1400 with 325 ORP.
All in all - tank is maturing nicely for being up for only 60 days since cycle completion- starting to see Coraline develop in high flow areas.
reeftivo
Skim junkie
Looks fantastic! It's a virtual sps orgy in there. I'm so jealous because I'm going so slow with mine because of home remodeling (it's kicking my butt). Looks like you have a small fortune in sps in there right now. Very Nice!!!! If you want a bit more color then you may want to try an XM 15K bulb in there. I have a large frag package coming friday with more acros and some branching montis and I am going to put in a Ushio 10K with the new Giesemann T-5 true actinics so I can get better growth. Have you checked out Aquatraders? They look exactly like the cad fixtures and they have a 250 watt w/ compact fluorescents and moonlights for $169. Sounds rediculous but they do. I will eventually go with the Hamilto belize sun 250 watt fixture for mine, but will have to wait till after x-mas.
ESV makes a lower PH version of their B-Ionic. You might want to check it out.
Your tank is looking fantastic and thanks to you, I won't be posting any more pics of mine until I can catch up! LOL!!!!!!
Great Job!!!!!!!!!
ESV makes a lower PH version of their B-Ionic. You might want to check it out.
Your tank is looking fantastic and thanks to you, I won't be posting any more pics of mine until I can catch up! LOL!!!!!!
Great Job!!!!!!!!!
CalmSeasQuest
Active member
Thanks Reeftivo, especially for the heads up on the lower pH version of B-Ionic and the cheap 250W MH option - I'll look into both.
I haven't been able to find much on the stock Prism bulb or the stock T5s for reference. You like the XM15K over the Phoenix 14K? I think I will ultimately move to more watts, probably 250W MH as it's hard to find a high powered T5 in 24" length.
LEDS seem promising, I'm just not willing to spend those types of dollars on em till we have more trend data - especially with SPS.
I haven't been able to find much on the stock Prism bulb or the stock T5s for reference. You like the XM15K over the Phoenix 14K? I think I will ultimately move to more watts, probably 250W MH as it's hard to find a high powered T5 in 24" length.
LEDS seem promising, I'm just not willing to spend those types of dollars on em till we have more trend data - especially with SPS.
CalmSeasQuest
Active member
So far, so good with the Nem.
It took about a month for the RBTA to settle on it's spot during which time it covered every inch of the tank both horizontally and vertically. Since it settled in it's current position, it hasn't moved an inch. It seems very happy and fully inflates each day. It tolerates both an ORA Picasso pair and a Porcelain (Anemone) Crab. I've even noted the Male Picasso feeding the anemone...it's very cool.
As an extra measure, I positioned the MP20 to keep a strong and varied current across the top SPS shelf in line with the RBTA in an attempt to prevent it from expanding into SPS territory - so far it's worked well.
It took about a month for the RBTA to settle on it's spot during which time it covered every inch of the tank both horizontally and vertically. Since it settled in it's current position, it hasn't moved an inch. It seems very happy and fully inflates each day. It tolerates both an ORA Picasso pair and a Porcelain (Anemone) Crab. I've even noted the Male Picasso feeding the anemone...it's very cool.
As an extra measure, I positioned the MP20 to keep a strong and varied current across the top SPS shelf in line with the RBTA in an attempt to prevent it from expanding into SPS territory - so far it's worked well.
Gillundr
New member
WOW great picture! Awesome tank! all I can say is Wow that is nice! Thank you very much for posting. It's usually just us few in here and our tanks haven't been set up long to be really established yet. Great great work!
On another note here is the algae I was talking about. I'm on my way out the door right now so can't go into much more detail. It is super stuck on the rock and like I said to get it off you pretty much have to take off the top layer of rock along with the coraline. Like scrubbing with a super stiff tile grout bush as hard as the brush will allow for several minutes. Any ideas how to get rid of it? It's popping up all over. Is it something that came on the rock? It doesn't seem like your run of the mill stuff lol.
On another note here is the algae I was talking about. I'm on my way out the door right now so can't go into much more detail. It is super stuck on the rock and like I said to get it off you pretty much have to take off the top layer of rock along with the coraline. Like scrubbing with a super stiff tile grout bush as hard as the brush will allow for several minutes. Any ideas how to get rid of it? It's popping up all over. Is it something that came on the rock? It doesn't seem like your run of the mill stuff lol.
reeftivo
Skim junkie
It's Rhodophyta!
Red algae (Rhodophyta). The red algae, or Rhodophyta, are marine plants that live mainly in shallow waters and deep tropical seas. A few also occur in freshwater. Their body forms range from single-celled to
branched filaments. The larger species have filaments that are massed together and resemble the leaves and stems of plants. They have no flagella and typically grow attached to a hard surface or on other algae. Some species contain a red pigment; others range in color from green to red, purple, and greenish-black. The cell walls of Coralline red algae become heavily encrusted with minerals and help to cement and stabilize coral reefs.
A long spine urchin will eat this because it is calcerous but they can also chew on encrusting corals. I had a long spine for three years and it mowed down all my algae except for bryopsis. I removed him after I introduced some caps because I saw him chewing on one of them. The urchin didn't damage the cap very much but I wasn't going to take any chances. I never noticed him ever getting close to any of the other sps.
Rhodophyta is not a bad algae, it just may become unsightly if not groomed ocassionally. It probably took off when you started adding kalk-right?
Red algae (Rhodophyta). The red algae, or Rhodophyta, are marine plants that live mainly in shallow waters and deep tropical seas. A few also occur in freshwater. Their body forms range from single-celled to
branched filaments. The larger species have filaments that are massed together and resemble the leaves and stems of plants. They have no flagella and typically grow attached to a hard surface or on other algae. Some species contain a red pigment; others range in color from green to red, purple, and greenish-black. The cell walls of Coralline red algae become heavily encrusted with minerals and help to cement and stabilize coral reefs.
A long spine urchin will eat this because it is calcerous but they can also chew on encrusting corals. I had a long spine for three years and it mowed down all my algae except for bryopsis. I removed him after I introduced some caps because I saw him chewing on one of them. The urchin didn't damage the cap very much but I wasn't going to take any chances. I never noticed him ever getting close to any of the other sps.
Rhodophyta is not a bad algae, it just may become unsightly if not groomed ocassionally. It probably took off when you started adding kalk-right?
reeftivo
Skim junkie
I've even noted the Male Picasso feeding the anemone...it's very cool.
Nice CalmSeasQuest!
I throw an occassional silver side in the tank once in a while for my rose nem and the nassarius snails. It's always fun to drop it in the front and watch my tomato clown grab it and run it back to the nem. Cool Stuff!! Those nass snails are a trip! They sit under the sand and as soon as I dip the nose of a frozen silverside in there they can taste it in the column and fly out looking to eat. Reef aquarium animals are always facinating!!
Last night I took a break from drywall at the house and decided to go down to my LFS (shocker!!-LOL) to pick up another heater. The owner had a returned ASM skimmer that she was going to put on one of her small frag tanks. I talked her into selling it to me for $80 bucks. The customer who returned it thought it was a hang on (?) and never used it. I'm breaking it in with old tank water in the garage and WOW! After 4 hours of running it started to produce one of the thickest foam heads I've ever seen (much thicker than even my ATI and ATB). Its the mini-G and it only has a 5 x 7 footprint. I'm going to let it run for a while and put it on my QT, but if when I get home it is producing well, I'll put it in the pro until I can get my octo up and running. I'll get some pics tonight.
Nice CalmSeasQuest!
I throw an occassional silver side in the tank once in a while for my rose nem and the nassarius snails. It's always fun to drop it in the front and watch my tomato clown grab it and run it back to the nem. Cool Stuff!! Those nass snails are a trip! They sit under the sand and as soon as I dip the nose of a frozen silverside in there they can taste it in the column and fly out looking to eat. Reef aquarium animals are always facinating!!
Last night I took a break from drywall at the house and decided to go down to my LFS (shocker!!-LOL) to pick up another heater. The owner had a returned ASM skimmer that she was going to put on one of her small frag tanks. I talked her into selling it to me for $80 bucks. The customer who returned it thought it was a hang on (?) and never used it. I'm breaking it in with old tank water in the garage and WOW! After 4 hours of running it started to produce one of the thickest foam heads I've ever seen (much thicker than even my ATI and ATB). Its the mini-G and it only has a 5 x 7 footprint. I'm going to let it run for a while and put it on my QT, but if when I get home it is producing well, I'll put it in the pro until I can get my octo up and running. I'll get some pics tonight.
reeftivo
Skim junkie
I like the phoenix bulbs but the color of the xm is very noticeable for me and even though it is only 100K higher in the spectrum, it brings out the colors much more. It is, however, less intense.
Gillundr
New member
Yeah, now that you mention it, it's started taking off since dosing kalk. I have quite a bit of it too though lol. Popping up here and there on the rocks. I have a long spine urchin that does eat it. He is in my frag tank. I moved my candy cane into my frag tank, and that candy cane is one of the really bright green ones where the heads grow out on branches on their own not clumped like most you see. Anyways, the urchin did eat that algae off the branches he could get to. Unfortunately the urchin has in the past eaten chunks of montis on me. I have a rainbow monti about the size of a dinner plate and he took out a swath about 3" wide all the way around it LOL. I have read that urchins will eat some sps, not sure how much of it though, and I also heard they are more likely to eat "fresh" cuttings for some reason. If I do put the urchin in there I guess I'm going to need to break out the glue and epoxy and make sure everything is secured to rocks. Right now a lot of stuff is just laying in there and wedged into places. I purposely kept all crabs out of my tank for now until the corals all attached to rocks because they are always flipping over frags and relocating corals. I do have a pom pom in there, but he doesn't do anything since he's a filter feeder.
Maybe it's time to glue stuff down and move the urchin in for a little while. At least I know what this stuff is now and know I don't need to break the tank down to get rid of it. It sounds like I can't really rid it from the tank. The piece of rock I scrubbed a couple weeks ago already has new growth of this stuff. I do see it becoming a pain though so I should probably get things nailed down and put the urchin in. Is it just the long skinny spine urchins that eat it? Or will like pencil urchins or tuxedo urchins eat it as well? I have the long skinny spine (I think they are poisonous) and a pencil in my frag tank but would almost rather put in a smaller one in the CAD..oh well I guess the long spine aren't too ugly lol. Just need to nail everything down.
Thanks again Tivo! What would you do if it was your personal tank with this stuff?
BTW the skimmer you sent me is really kicking butt! I can't believe how stinky the skim is in there. PHEW!
reeftivo
Skim junkie
Sounds tough, but you'll be fine. Don't use tuxedo or pencil urchins because they have a tendancy to go carnivor-LOL. The long spines are not poisonous they are just barbed so if you get stuck by one of them they sometimes break off in the skin and wedge themselves deeper causing infection at times. I got stuck only once with my old guy and it scared the !@#t out of me. I even jerked back so quick I destroyed a monti gigante that I loved (turned into 5 frags after that-LOL). The long spines are not carnivorous but love calcerous algaes (actually almost any algae) and thats why they go after the fresh growing edges of the caps. There is almost no tissue at the edges, just juicy coralline. Once you've got everything of concern anchored down then stick him in there at the patch and watch him go. If it gets close to your caps then move him (with gloves!). They are extremely hardy so you could always put him in there when your around to watch, then grab him out when you leave and put him in another tank until you can monitor him again.
Personally, I had some on the fiji branch I have but it was small and the urchin cleaned it off quickly before I removed him. If your urchin is too big then it will have problems getting into the hard to reach places. So if you need to get the nooks and crannys then a little guy is a better bet.
Just a thought!
Personally, I had some on the fiji branch I have but it was small and the urchin cleaned it off quickly before I removed him. If your urchin is too big then it will have problems getting into the hard to reach places. So if you need to get the nooks and crannys then a little guy is a better bet.
Just a thought!
CalmSeasQuest
Active member
I learned a few new things today...
1) Calibrate probes! - I setup an Apex about 90 days ago and didn't bother to calibrate the pH or ORP probes. The pH probe was reading .35 high!, so all the time I was limiting my Kalk drip and B-Ionic dosing for no reason :furious:
2) Fluidized bed reactors RULE - I was just using AC in a filter bag, installed a Via Aqua reactor (primarily for AC, but GFO if ever needed.) I thought my water clarity was good before, now it's even better. I chose the Via Aqua over other higher rated options such as the BRS because I didn't want to add anything else inside the sump if I could avoid it and it "just" fits on the floor of the stand in front of the sump.
3) Salifert Flat Worm exit works - Had been watching an increase in Planaria and wanted to deal with it before they got too numerous as they emit a toxin when they die. 24 drops of flat worm exit and literally in seconds they begin writhing and die and it didn't impact anything else. Ran Carbon and did a 10% water change - Tank is good as new.
Now all is good awaiting a new livestock order on Tuesday including a Citrine Tabletop Acropora, Tricolor Acropora Loripes, Rainbow Yuma and a Pink Echinophyllia.
1) Calibrate probes! - I setup an Apex about 90 days ago and didn't bother to calibrate the pH or ORP probes. The pH probe was reading .35 high!, so all the time I was limiting my Kalk drip and B-Ionic dosing for no reason :furious:
2) Fluidized bed reactors RULE - I was just using AC in a filter bag, installed a Via Aqua reactor (primarily for AC, but GFO if ever needed.) I thought my water clarity was good before, now it's even better. I chose the Via Aqua over other higher rated options such as the BRS because I didn't want to add anything else inside the sump if I could avoid it and it "just" fits on the floor of the stand in front of the sump.
3) Salifert Flat Worm exit works - Had been watching an increase in Planaria and wanted to deal with it before they got too numerous as they emit a toxin when they die. 24 drops of flat worm exit and literally in seconds they begin writhing and die and it didn't impact anything else. Ran Carbon and did a 10% water change - Tank is good as new.
Now all is good awaiting a new livestock order on Tuesday including a Citrine Tabletop Acropora, Tricolor Acropora Loripes, Rainbow Yuma and a Pink Echinophyllia.
reeftivo
Skim junkie
Looks good!
Those little via aquas are a great deal. I've had two of them for several years and they worked great. I had the first gen models and the fittings are prone to leaking (cracking) a bit but they still worked fine. The new one you have I beleive has cast fittings while mine were glued. I would still be using one on my tank but I'm running a full bag of chemipure elite and it was too difficult for me to get the bag into the reactor. I have the Two Little Fishes one right now and cut the zip tie off the bag, then run the long tube through the bag. Once I get to the bottom of the bag, I poke a small hole in the bottom and push the tube all the way through then put a small zip tie on each end. The bag then just slides easily right into cylinder and with a couple of shakes, settles down to the bottom. I get a good roll in the cylinder so the media stays suspended and it works great. Even though the chemipure elite has GFO in it, I still occasionally add an extra tablespoon of Rowa to the bag before I seal it up. Works good for me.
I have been battling a bit the AC jr probe I have as well. I try and calibrate it every couple of months but I think my calibration fluid is bad. I have the bottles and calibrated it about four weeks ago then recalibrated it last weekend and the Ph kept settling at 8.09. I found some bags in my garage and recalibrated it again with it still settling a bit low-at 8.12. Time for some new fluid!
Glad to hear the you got a handle on your flat worms CalmSeasQuest! You better slow down on adding you livestock so I can catch up!! You sump looks like it's functioning well.
Are you having trouble controlling the algae outside the fuge from the excess stray light from that halogen spot lamp? It looks like it's creeping to the skimmer a bit.
Those little via aquas are a great deal. I've had two of them for several years and they worked great. I had the first gen models and the fittings are prone to leaking (cracking) a bit but they still worked fine. The new one you have I beleive has cast fittings while mine were glued. I would still be using one on my tank but I'm running a full bag of chemipure elite and it was too difficult for me to get the bag into the reactor. I have the Two Little Fishes one right now and cut the zip tie off the bag, then run the long tube through the bag. Once I get to the bottom of the bag, I poke a small hole in the bottom and push the tube all the way through then put a small zip tie on each end. The bag then just slides easily right into cylinder and with a couple of shakes, settles down to the bottom. I get a good roll in the cylinder so the media stays suspended and it works great. Even though the chemipure elite has GFO in it, I still occasionally add an extra tablespoon of Rowa to the bag before I seal it up. Works good for me.
I have been battling a bit the AC jr probe I have as well. I try and calibrate it every couple of months but I think my calibration fluid is bad. I have the bottles and calibrated it about four weeks ago then recalibrated it last weekend and the Ph kept settling at 8.09. I found some bags in my garage and recalibrated it again with it still settling a bit low-at 8.12. Time for some new fluid!
Glad to hear the you got a handle on your flat worms CalmSeasQuest! You better slow down on adding you livestock so I can catch up!! You sump looks like it's functioning well.
Are you having trouble controlling the algae outside the fuge from the excess stray light from that halogen spot lamp? It looks like it's creeping to the skimmer a bit.
CalmSeasQuest
Active member
Hi RT - Yes, the skimmer and clear lines are growing some algae, I'm going to clean them then wrap the exposed parts in black tape to eliminate the problem. Still waiting for the Bubble Magus skimmer - should be here any day.
I'm working on a crazy idea of turning the center sump section into a small frag tank. I don't think I really need the fuge as the tank is very light bio-load (2 clowns and a Mandarin) and I've never been able to measure any Phosphates or Nitrates. I'm going to set up the Aquadoser outside of the stand, remove the cheato, existing light and extra live rock and add a couple levels of eggcrate, the bottom level covering the entire center section resting just above the rubble, and the top level, 1/2 the depth of the center section resting on the weir rails. This will provide high and low light areas and allow me to slide the top section back and forth to accommodate acclimation of the top corals and shading for the bottom level.
I'll reverse light it with a Viper 70W MH - I'm sure I'll have add fans to the stand to account for the heat build up and a powerhead for additional flow - but I think it might work.
Any thoughts?
I'm working on a crazy idea of turning the center sump section into a small frag tank. I don't think I really need the fuge as the tank is very light bio-load (2 clowns and a Mandarin) and I've never been able to measure any Phosphates or Nitrates. I'm going to set up the Aquadoser outside of the stand, remove the cheato, existing light and extra live rock and add a couple levels of eggcrate, the bottom level covering the entire center section resting just above the rubble, and the top level, 1/2 the depth of the center section resting on the weir rails. This will provide high and low light areas and allow me to slide the top section back and forth to accommodate acclimation of the top corals and shading for the bottom level.
I'll reverse light it with a Viper 70W MH - I'm sure I'll have add fans to the stand to account for the heat build up and a powerhead for additional flow - but I think it might work.
Any thoughts?
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