CADlights 39g Pro build thread

[coolcorals]

A few pics of the tank with the lumenmax 3 fixture.

250 watt 14k phoenix

250watt HQI overdriven (too bright!)

175 watt

175 watt FTS-sorry for the bad photo skills

150 watts (dimmer with much more actinic)

My make shift water deflector

Nice tank shots! Been off RC for some time, so been catching up on my CAD 39 Pro reading to see how everyone's systems are progressing.

Which setting do you run your lights: 150w, 175w or 250w? Do you miss the Actinic or do you still get the same color "pop"? How do you like the Lumen Max vs the stock CAD?

Starting to get the inch to play with the lighting - never good!

 

[reeftivo]

Hey coolcorals! Hope all is well!

I was running my lumenmax 3 at 250 watts. 7 hour photo period, 10 inches above the water line. I have recently lowered the fixture to 8 inches and am running the ballast at 175. While I don't have heat issues (winter-lol), it is just too bright in the living room. I got such a bounce back, just off the glass and gravel, that my wife was complaining. I didn't mind it but the usual compramise had to be implemented.

I get the same actinic colors at 175 that I did with the cad 150 with actinic plus T5's. If I run at 250 I get a great actinic as well, but the tank just glows too bright for the wife-lol. At 150 with the lumatek ballast, I get the look of running a cross between pure actinic and standard 420 actinics. Very blue. The big plus for me is that I'm always fiddling and the small dimensions of the fixture gives me the look I like and unlimited access to the top. It's also super, super easy to raise or lower. Takes about ten seconds!

I seriously wanted to go LED and save money over time, but pulled the trigger on the lumenmax3/lumatek combo for around $300 at Aquacave. For now I'm very happy but I'm sure LED's will be in the future.

 

[reeftivo]

The lumatek ballasts has 4 settings I can use any time with the turn of a knob.

Using a 250 watt bulb:

150 watt
175 watt
250 watt
250 HQI (overdriven)

The animals will require SPF 100 sun block (LOL!) when run at the HQI setting.

 

[coolcorals]

The lumatek ballasts has 4 settings I can use any time with the turn of a knob.

Using a 250 watt bulb:

150 watt
175 watt
250 watt
250 HQI (overdriven)

The animals will require SPF 100 sun block (LOL!) when run at the HQI setting.

I really like the option of having multiple settings. From the photo, the 250w setting appeared to have a strong glow (I'm used to the stock hood/ballast). Of course more questions:

* Which setting did you like best? From photos, 175w looks nice (I prefer more blue over white).
* I believe you are running a Phoenix 14k. How does the color compare between the stock with 150w and your Lumtek ballast set at 150w (though running a 250w bulb)?
* What about heat. Does it heat up tank more, less or about same? May be hard to tell, since it's winter, but I'm just wondering if the added distance to surface balances out the added heat from the 175w or 250w settings.

Thanks for the info.

 

[reeftivo]

175 has the best balance of color. I have an jebo fan clipped just behind the overflow and it is set with an adjustable speed transformer block from vantec. It's set on low and it keeps the radiant heat from building up. The real test will be in the summer but I have a chiller. If I put my hand under the fixture at 175 watts, it's no hotter than the stock cad fixture. At 250 watts I have to ramp up the fan to the next setting and it's fine. My tank is always stable at 78 degrees.

you can see the fan in this pic

 

[meinestrasse]

I'm sorry to hear about your hassle. Unfortunately, I think QA is almost non-existent at CADLights. At least, that's what I went thru on my tank - several issues that should've been caught before system shipped. Like you, I had waited a yr to assemble and found the return pump and skimmer to not be working and the stand to have an issue. Because it was a yr later, Eddie was unwilling to do anything - understandable, but it still was their fault due to lack of QA. Hope you get better results.

I think I read you can't put new silicone over old, since they won't bond (this is just a guess, I'm no expert). I'd definitely be concerned about any compromises to the seal on the tank itself. Best to talk to Eddie - even if he can't help, at least he should know whether tank is safe to repair/use.

So it's been nearly a week since I've phoned and e-mailed Eddie. No response. I am very disappointed. My hope is that he's on vacation rather than avoiding the issue. I did find this warranty info on the CAD website, though:

DEFECTIVE ITEMS:
C.A.D Lighting co. will provide a limited warranty for one year on the craftsmanship and circuitry of our products from the original date of purchase. This warranty DOES NOT include bulbs or internal pumps. Nor does the warranty imply or cover abuse, misuse or improper installation of any product manufactured by C.A.D Lighting co. Returns on defective items must also call to obtain a RA # before shipping and must be sent via insured method. Items found to be defective shall be repaired or replaced at the discretion of C.A.D Lighting co.

 

[reeftivo]

after reading that, most likely you're out of luck since the overflow was removed. Eddie should have some back up in the office so requests can be answered in a timely manner (vacations are no excuse). I think at this point, the first thing I would do is to see if the tank will hold water! You mentioned the back glass seam may have been compramised. So that's the first concern. Even if the bead has been cut or torn, as long as there is silicone between the panes where they contact eachother, it should still hold water. From what I've read, the best way to reinforce it is to use a razor blade to remove the 45 degree bead completely along the back pane without actually removing the contact adhesive directly where the glass panes meet (hope that makes sense). When the bead is removed there is still silicone underneath where the flat panes touch. The area should then be cleaned with IPA (isopropanol/isopropyl alcohol) and left to dry. You would then re-apply a new bead along the back pane and wet a finger to smooth it back to a 45 degree angle. This should create a new seal on both panes of glass, over the existing cured silicone.

Make sure it holds water first though. Otherwise it would be a waste of time.

 

[meinestrasse]

Thanks, tivo. I did inform Eddie via e-mail with photos of the issue before I removed the overflow. At this point I'm going to move forward with my own repairs. CAD hasn't done much to win my customer loyalty, for sure. I will give your recommendations a try.

 

[reeftivo]

So sorry to hear that my buddy!

I feel your pain! Seems like Cadlights has these bouts with really poor customer service for some customers and then they are totally on the ball with others. Strange! I've been to their old shop a few times over here and as far as I can tell, Eddie is a one man show. It's been a while since I've spoken to him and I know he had brought on some sales help for the So Cal region but it seems that the QC is still hit or miss. Maybe they are focusing on the Artisan a bit too much and leaving us 39pro peeps behind. Don't know! His shop is only about five miles from my office so I think I'll pop by and say hi and let him know some of his customers are in need of some attention (in a nice way(-.

PM me with your name and location and I'll see if I can help.

I know it's discouraging but hang in there!!!!!!!

Tivo

 

[coolcorals]

175 has the best balance of color. I have an jebo fan clipped just behind the overflow and it is set with an adjustable speed transformer block from vantec. It's set on low and it keeps the radiant heat from building up. The real test will be in the summer but I have a chiller. If I put my hand under the fixture at 175 watts, it's no hotter than the stock cad fixture. At 250 watts I have to ramp up the fan to the next setting and it's fine. My tank is always stable at 78 degrees.

you can see the fan in this pic

Yeah, 175w does seem to have a very nice color with a bit of blue. It looks like the Phoenix in this fixture is much bluer than it ran in the old CAD fixture - at least a lot bluer than it runs in mine. I suspect the Lumenmax has a much better reflector too.

I don't need a chiller now, so that's why I've stayed away from the 250w, but the adjustable ballast makes it a non-issue!

I also like the idea of hanging the fixture - would make it a lot easier to get into the tank! What hanging kit do you use?

Thanks for the great info!

 

[coolcorals]

So it's been nearly a week since I've phoned and e-mailed Eddie. No response. I am very disappointed. My hope is that he's on vacation rather than avoiding the issue. I did find this warranty info on the CAD website, though:

DEFECTIVE ITEMS:
C.A.D Lighting co. will provide a limited warranty for one year on the craftsmanship and circuitry of our products from the original date of purchase. This warranty DOES NOT include bulbs or internal pumps. Nor does the warranty imply or cover abuse, misuse or improper installation of any product manufactured by C.A.D Lighting co. Returns on defective items must also call to obtain a RA # before shipping and must be sent via insured method. Items found to be defective shall be repaired or replaced at the discretion of C.A.D Lighting co.

I'd keep calling him. As I remember, he never called me back, but if I got him on the phone, he'd answer my questions.

I bought system through Ocean Reflections, so worked with them for initial issues. They were really good about replacing broken sump (think that was common), but gave me more resistance when I asked for instructions, a packing list, missing parts for cabinet and questioned super short Durso.

My later issues with equipment (pump, skimmer, LED transformer) were past a yr after purchase, so out of any warranty. Now I know not to just sit on all the stuff!

Does seem some people get better service than others, but I think you have to be persistent and get Eddie on the phone. I know it took a few calls to catch him.

Since you are just setting up the system, I'd recommend swapping out your sump - wish I had and put in a larger and/or reconfigured sump (lesson learned).

 

[reeftivo]

Yeah, 175w does seem to have a very nice color with a bit of blue. It looks like the Phoenix in this fixture is much bluer than it ran in the old CAD fixture - at least a lot bluer than it runs in mine. I suspect the Lumenmax has a much better reflector too.

I don't need a chiller now, so that's why I've stayed away from the 250w, but the adjustable ballast makes it a non-issue!

I also like the idea of hanging the fixture - would make it a lot easier to get into the tank! What hanging kit do you use?

Thanks for the great info!

NP!

here's the hanger kit I have (cheap/looks great/strong!)
http://www.marinedepot.com/Sunlight...nlight_Supply_Inc-SL2943-FILTACMOFTHK-vi.html

 

[coolcorals]

NP!

here's the hanger kit I have (cheap/looks great/strong!)
http://www.marinedepot.com/Sunlight...nlight_Supply_Inc-SL2943-FILTACMOFTHK-vi.html

Working on the wife to let me get a hanging fixture - she's wondering why I'm replacing an operational light!

Two (more) questions:
1. How does the hanger attach to ceiling: screw into stud or anchor into drywall?
2. How does it move up and down?

Thanks.

 

[meinestrasse]

Since you are just setting up the system, I'd recommend swapping out your sump - wish I had and put in a larger and/or reconfigured sump (lesson learned).

Coolcorals: Actually, I have the Tunze Skimmer Kit 15 as my sump. The original CAD sump is in my basement gathering dust.

Tivo: I PM'd you over the weekend with my contact info. As of today, I still haven't received a response from CAD on my leaking overflow. In the meantime, I filed a complaint with the Better Business Bureau against CAD for failure to respond or honor the one year warranty. I received an e-mail back from BBB today that they are forwarding my complaint to CAD for a response. I know contacting the BBB doesn't do much, but maybe something good will come of it.

 

[timdanger]

One of my t5s in the stock 150w halide fixture has stopped working. It's just one side, and I know it's not the bulb (bulb works in the other socket).

I left a message for eddie but haven't heard back.

Any ideas? Are thr t5s on separate ballasts? I haven't taken the fixture apart to look.

 

[reeftivo]

Working on the wife to let me get a hanging fixture - she's wondering why I'm replacing an operational light!

Two (more) questions:
1. How does the hanger attach to ceiling: screw into stud or anchor into drywall?
2. How does it move up and down?

Thanks.

Just tell her what I told my wife! You wont have the fan noise of the stock fixture. You won't have to keep laying down a fixture on her nice flooring.

The cables are super thin and very unassuming. My wife had the same aprehension at first, but now she says it looks nice. Mounting is simple. You thread the adjustment sleeves directly into the top of the fixture and run the two cables through them. The easiest way for me was to then take a 12 inch long piece of baseboard molding and drill a couple holes in it at the width of the mounts on the fixture. I then attached the eyelet bolts to that for hanging reference. I lifted the entire fixture up to the ceiling (very light!) and with two hands position it where it looked good over the tank and pushed hard on the bolts up into the cieling to mark it. I then just used a screw driver to punch the holes into the drywall and widened them enough to get the butterfly (wing) molly's through. I then just attached the white metal finish covers and pushed the molly's through, the snugged them up. Custom-LOL!.

The cables have chrome pinch adjusters with a button. I just leave about 3 inches of cable out at the lowest point and if I need to raise it, I pinch one adjuster and pull a little cable through, then move over to the next one. When I let go of the buttons, they lock tight. Simple!

 

[reeftivo]

Coolcorals: Actually, I have the Tunze Skimmer Kit 15 as my sump. The original CAD sump is in my basement gathering dust.

Tivo: I PM'd you over the weekend with my contact info. As of today, I still haven't received a response from CAD on my leaking overflow. In the meantime, I filed a complaint with the Better Business Bureau against CAD for failure to respond or honor the one year warranty. I received an e-mail back from BBB today that they are forwarding my complaint to CAD for a response. I know contacting the BBB doesn't do much, but maybe something good will come of it.

Hi buddy,

Got your info and PM'd Eddie on the CAD site and sent him a private e-mail. No reply yet. I haven't had a chance to drop by his shop yet, due to some personal issues, but plan to stop by when things settle down on my end.

I did notice that Eddie replied to a comment I made for another reefer on the CAD site, so he's definately around (unless it's Clay).

So far, poor communication!

Sorry but keep up the good fight!

 

[reeftivo]

One of my t5s in the stock 150w halide fixture has stopped working. It's just one side, and I know it's not the bulb (bulb works in the other socket).

I left a message for eddie but haven't heard back.

Any ideas? Are thr t5s on separate ballasts? I haven't taken the fixture apart to look.

Hi timdanger!

not sure of the dual ballasts on the T5's but most likely they run off 1 since there is only one power supply for the two. I could be wrong but have you tried to use some swabs on the contacts to clean them up? They can get oxidized and may have lost contact. I would take a close look at the contacts to see if there is any build up and just for the heck of it, get some good cotton swabs and either dip them in rubbing alcohol or vinegar and wipe the contacts well. You may even try to score them a bit with a small pearing knife. If the contacts are loose, then you may have a crack in the white housing and the tension is gone in the contact pins.

Best to take a really close look at everything. I could always give you my old fixture, but you would have to drive to chino california!!LOL!!!

 

[timdanger]

Hi buddy,

Got your info and PM'd Eddie on the CAD site and sent him a private e-mail. No reply yet. I haven't had a chance to drop by his shop yet, due to some personal issues, but plan to stop by when things settle down on my end.

I did notice that Eddie replied to a comment I made for another reefer on the CAD site, so he's definately around (unless it's Clay).

So far, poor communication!

Sorry but keep up the good fight!

i have called eddie (on the cadlights website contact number) about 5 times over the last 5-6 weeks, left him one message. no one ever answers, and i haven't heard back on my message, either.

 

[timdanger]

Hi timdanger!

not sure of the dual ballasts on the T5's but most likely they run off 1 since there is only one power supply for the two. I could be wrong but have you tried to use some swabs on the contacts to clean them up? They can get oxidized and may have lost contact. I would take a close look at the contacts to see if there is any build up and just for the heck of it, get some good cotton swabs and either dip them in rubbing alcohol or vinegar and wipe the contacts well. You may even try to score them a bit with a small pearing knife. If the contacts are loose, then you may have a crack in the white housing and the tension is gone in the contact pins.

Best to take a really close look at everything. I could always give you my old fixture, but you would have to drive to chino california!!LOL!!!

Thanks for the advice -- i didn't see anything that looked like a ballast from my cursory glance around the fixture, so i assume it's hidden somewhere in there, but it makes sense that there would be only one since the there is only one power cord.

i'll definitely take a closer look at it and see if i can find anything that looks off. i'll also try cleaning it up -- then see where I'm at. i've been thinking about a 250w halide anyway (or LEDs....?! but, pricing/quality concerns abound).