Cadlights 50G Artisan Cube Tank Build Thread
- Thread starter cocoaandme
- Start date
cocoaandme
New member
At first I will be using a lumenbright mini reflector modified to hold a 150w DE bulb. This will be powered by a coralvue ballast and I will be running radiums. I have the light setup already but I have to make a conversion bracket to mount it on the light hanger. Luckily I have access to a small machine shop.
When I get the money I might be switching to maxspect led lights like my friend Conrad who has a 45g cube build going on too.
My only problems with LEDs is that I can see the different colored shimmer effect. So I want to see how Conrad's is before making the purchase. Lots of people can't see it but I can see it as clear as night and day so for now I am sticking to halides.
I also chose to go with 150w because the lumenbright has proven to be so effective at focusing light that it can perform like a 250w with a 150w bulb. It is really amazing how well it focuses the light. If you ever get the chance I recommend you take a look at one in person. You can see the reflection of the bulb from each reflective surface when looking dead on. So that roughly means that the light intensity within it's field of reflection is amplified by each reflective surface. Pretty awesome if you ask me! The only reflector that proved more effective is the lumen max elite but those don't look too hot on an open hood system.
As you can see I am selecting my gear very carefully. :worried2:
I will post pictures of the light next week.
cocoaandme
New member
Ok so now for some small sump modifications. I raised the first baffle in the sump to 10" which is the optimal water level for the SWC 160 extreme cone (well 9-10")
I used books to prop up the extension piece and keep it aligned and painters tape to make a nice seam.
And then I cut out the divider between the bubble trap and the skimmer compartment to allow for more flow from the filter sock to the skimmer. Otherwise the exit ares from the bubble chamber are the same for going to the skimmer compartment and for going directly to the refugium chamber.
If you look at my posts above you can see what the sump looked like originally. I didn't do anything fancy but I thin it will make a big difference as far as filtration efficiency.
And here is a picture with the filter sock holder and skimmer inside the sump.
I was thinking about moving the second baffle to the other side of the bubble catcher to force the flow diagonally through the refugium but then I decided not to because I will be plumbing my return in such a way that will pump water from the bottom of the refugium up. When I finish the plumbing it will become more clear.
I used books to prop up the extension piece and keep it aligned and painters tape to make a nice seam.
And then I cut out the divider between the bubble trap and the skimmer compartment to allow for more flow from the filter sock to the skimmer. Otherwise the exit ares from the bubble chamber are the same for going to the skimmer compartment and for going directly to the refugium chamber.
If you look at my posts above you can see what the sump looked like originally. I didn't do anything fancy but I thin it will make a big difference as far as filtration efficiency.
And here is a picture with the filter sock holder and skimmer inside the sump.
I was thinking about moving the second baffle to the other side of the bubble catcher to force the flow diagonally through the refugium but then I decided not to because I will be plumbing my return in such a way that will pump water from the bottom of the refugium up. When I finish the plumbing it will become more clear.
cocoaandme
New member
Here are some pictures of the actual tank, which I know are long overdue. Clay told me that this tank is actually the one they used for their photoshoot for their website so it's going to be famous haha.
As you can see I put a level in it and it does appear to be level.
And another shot to show off the seam quality.
I also want to thank Clay for being extremely helpful with helping me get this tank and answering all my questions. He is a great guy and offers the best customer service I've ever seen. :thumbsup:
As you can see I put a level in it and it does appear to be level.
And another shot to show off the seam quality.
I also want to thank Clay for being extremely helpful with helping me get this tank and answering all my questions. He is a great guy and offers the best customer service I've ever seen. :thumbsup:
cocoaandme
New member
Also in case you were wondering if the tank indeed had high clarity low iron "starphire" glass here is the proof.
On the left is the back of the tank which for obvious reasons is not starphire and on the right is the front of the tank with high clarity glass.
I was skeptical at first about the use of starphire glass for this thickness (10mm) since I didn't think it would make much of a difference in clarity but I can really see it now. I even compared it to 1/4" regular glass that I used for the baffle modifications in my sump and it is still more transparent. It kind of makes me wonder what my other tanks would have looked like with starphire.
BTW the two panes of glass are the same thickness. It's just the camera distance that makes the regular one look thicker.
On the left is the back of the tank which for obvious reasons is not starphire and on the right is the front of the tank with high clarity glass.
I was skeptical at first about the use of starphire glass for this thickness (10mm) since I didn't think it would make much of a difference in clarity but I can really see it now. I even compared it to 1/4" regular glass that I used for the baffle modifications in my sump and it is still more transparent. It kind of makes me wonder what my other tanks would have looked like with starphire.
BTW the two panes of glass are the same thickness. It's just the camera distance that makes the regular one look thicker.
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i say you hit me up for some nice corals to go with that nice tank.
WhiskeyTangoFox
In Memoriam
Fill eeeeetttttttttt@!@@@
cocoaandme
New member
Ok so I plan to fill it buy the end of this weekend. Today I got the light ready. I had to solder some wires together and make a mounting bracket.
Here is the bracket I made to mount the light on my Cadlights light stand:
And mounted on the light stand:
The bracket was made using aluminum bars and is put to together with screws so that it can be modified later or fully disassembled for whatever reason. I was going to spray paint it black but then I realized that it matches the light stand and lso I was to lazy. Haha.:lmao:
Here is the bracket I made to mount the light on my Cadlights light stand:
And mounted on the light stand:
The bracket was made using aluminum bars and is put to together with screws so that it can be modified later or fully disassembled for whatever reason. I was going to spray paint it black but then I realized that it matches the light stand and lso I was to lazy. Haha.:lmao:
cocoaandme
New member
And here is the whole ensmble:
Lights on:
I was thinking that the light might be a little to high but that is the lowest notch on the light stand so I might have to drill some more notches in it. What do you guys think? Is it too high?
Lights on:
I was thinking that the light might be a little to high but that is the lowest notch on the light stand so I might have to drill some more notches in it. What do you guys think? Is it too high?
cocoaandme
New member
Yeah then I will just have to drill some holes in the light stand. Hmph. I'm so lazy. Thanks for the feedback though it gave me that extra kick to get it done. Haha.
cocoaandme
New member
Well I am keeping the tank about 4 inches from the wall so I can easily raise or lower the light stand as needed. I also have the extra distance so that I can plumb in a remote refugium later on. But I am wondering about the aesthetics of it. How far is your tank from the wall? Do you think 4 inches looks weird. I am trying to decide between functionality and looks. Kind of like buying a car. :beachbum:
cocoaandme
New member
Just a recap, my light is a lumenbright mini modified to run a 150w hqi. It is powered by a coralvue 150w ballast and the current bulb is a radium.
I chose a 150w to save on energy consumption. My mission with this tank was to make it as affordably energy efficient as possible which is why I chose a lumenbright instead of a more compact halide fixture.
Here is a picture of the reflection of the light of the bottom of the tank that I thought was kind of cool:
And here is a picture of the light from directly below:
As you can see the reflecting angles are just right to reflect the light with a narrow beam increasing the par values within the field of light. Also the larger reflector design and vent placement allows the pendant to run cool. Even after running for hours the pendant is cool to the touch. I am really impressed with the design of this pendant and I will only switch to LED's once I see a fixture that does not produce different color lines in the shimmer effect. But maybe by that time plasma lighting will be affordable and widely available. Who knows, but equipment is fun!
I chose a 150w to save on energy consumption. My mission with this tank was to make it as affordably energy efficient as possible which is why I chose a lumenbright instead of a more compact halide fixture.
Here is a picture of the reflection of the light of the bottom of the tank that I thought was kind of cool:
And here is a picture of the light from directly below:
As you can see the reflecting angles are just right to reflect the light with a narrow beam increasing the par values within the field of light. Also the larger reflector design and vent placement allows the pendant to run cool. Even after running for hours the pendant is cool to the touch. I am really impressed with the design of this pendant and I will only switch to LED's once I see a fixture that does not produce different color lines in the shimmer effect. But maybe by that time plasma lighting will be affordable and widely available. Who knows, but equipment is fun!
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