Calfo Style Overflow boxes

[James11]

I was thinking about the overflow with the smooth edges, their is such a thin stream of water coming over the edge, do you all have auto-top off systems set-up, cause with that small stream of water coming over the edge it doesn't allow any room for your water level to go down then you wouldn't be draining any water from the tank to the sump or fuge,then there would be a problem.

 

[30mini]

Evap is always a problem. The way to solve this is to have a large return section, b/c that is where it is mostly noticable. If you can keep your return section at a steady level, then you will be fine. The low water will usually occur in the sump because of the water being pumped back up to the tank will never go lower than the overflow, unless neglected for a LONG time

 

[James11]

Thanks for the quick reply, I didn't think about that.

 

[Jeremy Blaze]

IME, the box does not have to be perfectly level. I just eyeball mine, and the work fine.

 

[matt the fiddler]

Jeremy- it depends on how thin of a layer of water is going over it.. really thin layers need more precision.

 

[LazyD]

I dont know how accurate this will be but im planning on doing my coast to coast overflow soon and I was going to take strips of wood (Same thickness of course) and put them between the lip of the trim and the top of the vertical piece of glass and push the glass up against the wood to get it even on both ends.

 

[30mini]

Why would you use wood when you work at a glass company?

 

[matt the fiddler]

watch out for wood. It is ok to test, but over time it may start to decompose or rot in the tank.

if it works well, post pictures, but also- think of changing it out with acrylic strips

 

[LazyD]

No no, sorry i didnt make it more clear, the wood would only be there to get both sides even and the same height so I dont have the problem of one side being lower then the other and having no water on one end and a waterfall on the other. Once the silicon set I would take the wood out, its only for measurements sake.

Also, the glass I work at is incredibly stingy...They charge me for 3 sq ft. minimum for 2 pieces of glass measuring 48" x 4"

 

[30mini]

Okay, that makes more sense now! As long as you don't keep the wood in there, your good. Go to Lowes or HD and get some pieces cut, it's probably cheaper that way.

 

[LazyD]

Im still planning on doing this, waiting for my holesaw via Lau+++ off ebay, gotta order the bulkheads too

 

[LazyD]

Does anyone know anything about these bulkheads?
http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/iid/6885/cid/1895

Id like to get the top quality ones but I dont think I can afford 55 dollars in just bulkheads, will the ones I listed above be alright? I really want threaded x threaded...

 

[Jeremy Blaze]

I usually use those, they are fine.

 

[30mini]

Those are fine! Just be carefuly not to tighten them too tight! A bulkhead is a bulkhead! You can make your own if you wanted to... you just need a gasket on one side to seal the water out

 

[Freds]

Nice job!

 

[ReefMeister2]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7721662#post7721662 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by LazyD
Does anyone know anything about these bulkheads?
http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/iid/6885/cid/1895

Id like to get the top quality ones but I dont think I can afford 55 dollars in just bulkheads, will the ones I listed above be alright? I really want threaded x threaded...

They are fine, but keep in mind that you can NOT thread to the outside of the bulkheads with blacknuts. Only the type with white nut and some sch. 80 (all gray) will allow PVC and other fittings to be threaded on the outside threads of the bulkhead.

 

[yardboy]

Also remember that when you use FPT X FPT, that PVC male threads are slightly tapered so when you screw in to the barrel (the end of the bulkhead opposite of the flange) that if you overtighten you can expand the bulkhead and bust it. I've done it more than once with the smaller bulkheads and it can be done with bigger ones too.

 

[LazyD]

Thanks for the heads up Yardboy

ReefMeister2, ive never heard of anyone attaching their plumbing to the outside threads but thanks as well

 

[ReefMeister2]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7727248#post7727248 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by LazyD
Thanks for the heads up Yardboy

ReefMeister2, ive never heard of anyone attaching their plumbing to the outside threads but thanks as well

Oooohhh, lots of neat tricks you can do with bulkheads.
In fact I attach to the outside far more times than inside (for my clients tanks and my own personal equipment). I attach 1-1/4" ballvalves to 1" bulkheads and 2" ballvalves to 1-1/2" bulkheads (assuming they have the white nut) on almost everything
Increases capacity substantially, especially if you dremel out the pipe stop from the inside of the bulkhead.
Maximum capacity with minimum hole-size


As an example, you can obtain 1-1/2" inside diameter capacity from a standard/light-duty 1" bulkhead...go ahead, measure it and see what I mean

 

[CoolUsername]

Great idea. Wish I had known that when I installed mine. I would have probably done that!