itstheantitang
New member
Does surface agitation affect these types of overflows negatively?
Calfo Style Overflow boxes
- Thread starter Jeremy Blaze
- Start date
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
I thought that the outside threading on bulkheads was done to a special threading to not match pipe threads... on purpose...
From what I understand surface agitation will affect this type of overflow negatively in the aspect that the long thin **** of water is make to not only overflow to your sump but also to "skim" the surface of the water for proteins and any kind of oils etc. I can only imagine that agitation would break up this protein/oil sheet on top of the water reducing the overall effectiveness of the design..
Just my 2 cents, someone correct me if im wrong
Just my 2 cents, someone correct me if im wrong
ReefMeister2
Premium Member
The "black nut" bulkheads: off-size/can't thread
The "white nut" bulkheads: Yes, you can thread on outside with standard ball valves/PVC parts.
It does require a few wraps of teflon tape to help start and lubricate the threads somewhat.
Overlow Help.
Overlow Help.
I just made one of these overflow boxes out of acrylic, for my 50 gallon acrylic tank but I want to know whats the best way to stick it on? I was thinking of using Weld-On #16 but will this be strong enough, or should I use something else? Also how long should I let the Weld-On dry?
Overlow Help.
I just made one of these overflow boxes out of acrylic, for my 50 gallon acrylic tank but I want to know whats the best way to stick it on? I was thinking of using Weld-On #16 but will this be strong enough, or should I use something else? Also how long should I let the Weld-On dry?
Jeremy Blaze
Former Reef Addict
It depends on how much flow you are wanting to go trough the overflows. 1 1" bulkhead is only good for a little over 300 gph.
Is there any sort of paint that would be ok to use inside the tank to paint the overflows black? I'm planning on using the Krylon Fusion to pain the back of the tank and I thought I read somewhere that it was ok to use inside the tank as well but I wanted to double check that.
Any thoughts/experience?
Any thoughts/experience?
Jeremy Blaze
Former Reef Addict
I have heard the krylon is okay to use.
ReefMeister2
Premium Member
This is why I use only the "white nut" lightduty bulkheads and then thread to the outside with 1-1/4" threaded fittings/ballvalve/couplings/etc.
It literally DOUBLES the capacity of the 1" bulkhead! This, WITHOUT having to drill a larger hole and re-installing a larger 1-1/2" bulkhead (very difficult to do by-the-way)
I'm running 2,000 GPH through two 1" drains (I'm not exagerating). It's been running for over two years now....flawlessly and silently...and I mean eerily silent!
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=672249&highlight=lifereef+overflow
So, im getting ready to put my Coast to Coast in on my 80 bowfront this weekend. What did you guys use to hold the "bottom" of the box/shelf in placed while it cured? Im not sure how im going to secure the whole thing while im siliconing it and its curing, also, did you guys drill the holes first then silicon the shelf/box in place? And lastly where are you guys drilling/putting bulkheads relative to your shelf, at the bottom of your shelf? The top?
Jeremy Blaze
Former Reef Addict
I used some c clamps to hold it in place while the silicone dried.
aroundtuit
Premium Member
LazyD,
I built a bracket from some scrap pieces of wood to hold it perfectly level.
End view: On the bottom right you can see how I beveled the bracket so it would sit flat on the bottom and not rest on the silicone joint
Front view: At the top of the brackets, you can see how I beveled the back corner to allow me room to apply the silicone and to remove the tape.
Although I didn't do it on the over flow, I should have built a bracket to hold the vertical piece in place too. It moved when I removed the tape and doesn't look very good, but it works. Here's a pic of a similar bracket I used when I built my sump. It just a scrap piece of 1/4 OSB with slots cut where I wanted the baffles to stay.
I built a bracket from some scrap pieces of wood to hold it perfectly level.
End view: On the bottom right you can see how I beveled the bracket so it would sit flat on the bottom and not rest on the silicone joint
Front view: At the top of the brackets, you can see how I beveled the back corner to allow me room to apply the silicone and to remove the tape.
Although I didn't do it on the over flow, I should have built a bracket to hold the vertical piece in place too. It moved when I removed the tape and doesn't look very good, but it works. Here's a pic of a similar bracket I used when I built my sump. It just a scrap piece of 1/4 OSB with slots cut where I wanted the baffles to stay.
Awesome
thanks alot, ill have to buy some cheapo wood and go at it with my table saw to make some supports like that as well.
I managed to scam the guy in our service department out of some plastic shims that I can use to level both sides(instead of the wood I asked about before) Its nice they come in 1/4", 1/8" and 1/16" so I have a nice range of adjustment
thanks alot, ill have to buy some cheapo wood and go at it with my table saw to make some supports like that as well.
I managed to scam the guy in our service department out of some plastic shims that I can use to level both sides(instead of the wood I asked about before) Its nice they come in 1/4", 1/8" and 1/16" so I have a nice range of adjustment
aroundtuit
Premium Member
LazyD,
Those shims should work fine. Another way to level it is to use sheets of paper. You can see were I used an add from the newspaper to level it on one end. As much as I tried, I didn't cut the pieces the perfect length.
One other thing. I put my tank in place on the stand and leveled it first. Then I put in the supports and leveled the overflow. I believe Bean Animal has said it several times, but just to repeat, you want the top of the overflow level with the earth. If its off, you'll have more water flowing over one end than the other. Don't rely on the tank trim. I used a laser level to make sure I had the glass level before siliconing it. Turned out perfect.
Those shims should work fine. Another way to level it is to use sheets of paper. You can see were I used an add from the newspaper to level it on one end. As much as I tried, I didn't cut the pieces the perfect length.
One other thing. I put my tank in place on the stand and leveled it first. Then I put in the supports and leveled the overflow. I believe Bean Animal has said it several times, but just to repeat, you want the top of the overflow level with the earth. If its off, you'll have more water flowing over one end than the other. Don't rely on the tank trim. I used a laser level to make sure I had the glass level before siliconing it. Turned out perfect.
Thanks for the heads up AroundTuit
Does anyone have answers to my other questions, im going to doing this tomorrow...
Did you guys drill the holes first then silicon the shelf/box in place?
Where are you guys drilling/putting bulkheads relative to your shelf, at the bottom of your shelf? The top?
Does anyone have answers to my other questions, im going to doing this tomorrow...
Did you guys drill the holes first then silicon the shelf/box in place?
Where are you guys drilling/putting bulkheads relative to your shelf, at the bottom of your shelf? The top?
So, here is a disheartining story for the bunch of you. Got my drill bit, got my glass for the supports, had all of my equipment, supplies needed - everything - I needed.
I get to the point where I start drilling, get the hole going drilling drilling and im thinkin, hey this isnt so bad, then POW!.... Noise so loud I get disoriented for a minute...Come back to... My tank is spiderwebbed... Thank you Perfecto(They told me on the tank I have only the front piece is tempered a la the bowed piece of glass)
So now, the 100 Gallon Rubbermaid Stock Tank that I put most of my LS and LR in along with all of my livestock for holding purposes is now their permanent home until I can find them new ones.
Between this major incident and other past incidents and where Im at with my life, im gonna take a break from the hobby...
Here is the thread with my livestock/LS/LR for sale:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=891188
I get to the point where I start drilling, get the hole going drilling drilling and im thinkin, hey this isnt so bad, then POW!.... Noise so loud I get disoriented for a minute...Come back to... My tank is spiderwebbed... Thank you Perfecto(They told me on the tank I have only the front piece is tempered a la the bowed piece of glass)
So now, the 100 Gallon Rubbermaid Stock Tank that I put most of my LS and LR in along with all of my livestock for holding purposes is now their permanent home until I can find them new ones.
Between this major incident and other past incidents and where Im at with my life, im gonna take a break from the hobby...
Here is the thread with my livestock/LS/LR for sale:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=891188
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Very sorry to hear that... Maybe you could keep a small setup until you get the urge to wade back into the hobby. You just have to be prepared for the sad feeling when something like this happens. I know it happens to all of us.
