Calfo Style Overflow boxes

louisxyz,

I only contacted Oceanic since they made my tank. I posted their response previously in this thread.
 
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I drilled two 1-3/4 holes for 1 inch bulkheads in my 110. Each one is 15 inches in from the side and 1-3/4 inches down from the top, If that works okay, I'll do the same for the 125.
 
Im interested in doing this to my 85 gallon bowfront, Id like to do a single 36" toothless overflow, I was looking at my dimensions being
36"Long x 3" Wide x 4.5" Deep

Do these measurements look alright? I plan on using (2) 1 1/4" or
1 1/2" bulkheads, I figure if their too large I can always get a PVC reducer and run 1" or something. My return is a Mag 9.5 splitting to 2 returns through bulkheads in the bottom of the tank

Any advice, suggestions anything?
 
Hey LazyD,
I have the horizontal overflow trough in my tank and I am very very happy with it. I see the thin stream of water flowing from the top down into the trough. Mine is almost the full length of the tank at 58.5"x4"Dx5"H. I had to have mine come out to 4" front to back so I could fit my hand inside. I also have euro style bracing around the top of the tank so that required I come out further from the back wall of the tank.

I have two 1.5" bulkheads drilled in the back of my tank and I am using a Seq. Dart for my returns. To help with the noise on the overflow I put the Durso standpipe on the back of the bulkheads. I made mine from glass and siliconed it to the back of the tank. I also painted it black so it blends into the backwall of the tank. I have some pictures of the Calfo style overflow in my thread that is currently in the Reef Discussion forum...
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=817817

Good luck
 
My tank is currently full and running, I saw a thread not too long ago about someone that had drilled and actually routed a rectangular hole in their tank with it running, im wondering if I drain my tank down to like a 1/4 full can I drill it like that, and then silicon my overflow box inplace and fill my tank back up to like halfway and rig up some tubing to my pump to keep water moving while the silicon sets up for the next 1 or 2 days then fill it all the way back up.

Or am I just crazy?
 
How can I go about finding out if the back pane of glass in my tank is tempered or not if I dont know the manafacturer?
 
Take a Dremel with a diamond bit and touch it to the glass you want to test. If it's tempered the glass will shatter into a thousand bits. That's how I found out! After much research I could find no one who could tell me of a way to determine it otherwise.
 
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Some pics of my new ~60g system, 36Lx24Wx18H from GlassCages. They were a little thrown off by the linear overflow but were cool with it. The stand will be finished in a week or two and it will be plumbed probably a week past that. I can't wait! :D

They actually got the build wrong the first time, it was supposed to be 1/2" brick style with no trim, they built it again and I picked it up last week. No pics though, use your imagination :)
 
center/back bracing is often not needed since the floor of the overflow (siliconed to the outside back or... inside, as the case here) is an incredible reinforcement. It's something like trying to bend a two by four timber by the narrow side versus the wide side... or the like old bar trick about trying to crush an egg between your fingers along its longest plane. Much stronger lengthwise.

That perpendicular floor is itself a very strong brace.

Looking at it another way/analogy: imagine typical top, euro-bracing... but lower (vis a vis, the overflow floor again here)

That all said... the aquarium in the image above looks to be made of (too) thin glass. The front will bow and perhaps bow too much to be safe. I'm very concerned about the front face and overall size/width of this tank being open topped. Do check with an engineer, but my recollection for common plate glass is that deflection (the "bow" here) should not exceed 1/2 the thickness of the glass. There is even less tolerance for white glass (ala Starfire, Diamante, etc).

So... a max "bow" of 1/4" on a 1/2" tank wall is acceptable. Yet this tank does not look to even be 1/2" thick by the image. And if so... may well be weakly contstructed. I'd at least like to see thicker walls if not additional bracing (1/2" Euro plates could go inside the front top face perhaps)

The caveat here... we are judging by image work. Not worth much (my advice ;))

Above all heed the mfg advice/warranty and an engineers data on proper specs if possible.

kindly, Anthony
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7436344#post7436344 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Anthony Calfo
That all said... the aquarium in the image above looks to be made of (too) thin glass. The front will bow and perhaps bow too much to be safe. I'm very concerned about the front face and overall size/width of this tank being open topped. Do check with an engineer, but my recollection for common plate glass is that deflection (the "bow" here) should not exceed 1/2 the thickness of the glass. There is even less tolerance for white glass (ala Starfire, Diamante, etc).

So... a max "bow" of 1/4" on a 1/2" tank wall is acceptable. Yet this tank does not look to even be 1/2" thick by the image. And if so... may well be weakly contstructed. I'd at least like to see thicker walls if not additional bracing (1/2" Euro plates could go inside the front top face perhaps)

Anthony,

Thanks for the input. These pics are of the tank that was NOT built to spec by GC - it was built with euro and only 3/8" thickness. The tank I have now is 1/2" with no bracing. I discussed this system with a number of builders (most of the big names) and all seemed to feel that a tank of this size would be OK with 1/2". I ended up choosing GC because they were cheapest by far, but ended up paying for it in hassle and an extra trip to OKC from Dallas to pick up the "right" tank.

At one point I was considering keeping the 3/8" original and just cutting off the euro - I'm very glad now I didn't do that.
 
While I usally defer to Anthony's vastly superior knowledge I have real world experiance on this one. ReeferMonkey, if that tank is truely made of 3/8" glass (hard to tell from the pictures as it looks like 1/4" to me), you will be fine even without the eurobracing.

I built a 36x24x20 tank out of 3/8"and had it in service for several years. It did have the extra internal bottom bracing that I see yours does as well but no bracing of any kind across the top. It did have dual corner overflows with the drains at the bottom.

It is not currently in service but it will be the sump for the system I'm planning/building.

I was never once worried about it leaking.
 
I would add a 90 degree inside the overflow pointing toward the bottom of the box so that air is taken by the hole in the cap instead of in front. Even if the water level is over the bulkhead it will still suck air in and it will make more noise than a real durso. I have made this same kind of overflow box. Wish I had seen this thread before tho.
 
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