CalmSeasQuest's Blue Wall (96X30X22)

[CalmSeasQuest]

I'm starting to lay out the plumbing and realized how large the SP6 return pump is...



I had planned on including a check valve on the return line, not due to sump overflowing concerns as the sump will hold more than enough drainage, but rather a convenience to prevent the skimmer from overflowing. With the tall return pump, manifold/fuge feed and gate valve on the return, I might have to lose the check valve.

GEO 612 cleaned, refilled with Tropic Eden CR media and ~25% ZEO mag and ready for service...



The tank will at some point out-demand this small reactor and I'll have to replace it with a larger CaRx.

 

[h.cordero]

You could delay the skimmer 2-3min to turn on after a power outage!

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

Occam's razor

Occam's razor

You could delay the skimmer 2-3min to turn on after a power outage!

Wow, Thank You. A simple solution that addresses most of the use cases for a check valve. :thumbsup:

As I think this through, I realize I have been looking for a mechanical solution to a problem that really doesn't exist, or at least isn't significant enough to warrant another device which requires maintenance and adds more unions (opportunity for leaks) to the plumbing.

With a simple delay command added to the Apex skimmer outlet,

• Power failure - The return pump is on the UPS, so in the event of a power failure - it will continue run for at least 30 minutes providing enough time to get the generator online. A check valve wouldn't even come into play in this scenario.
  
• Extended power outage/generator failure - In this case, the delay command would prevent the skimmer from restarting until after the return pump had restored normal water levels in the sump.
  
• Maintenance requiring the return pump be shut off - If working on the pump or plumbing, simply trigger a feed cycle that pauses the skimmer during maintenance or manually shut off the skimmer if a longer period of time is needed.

The only use case I see where the check valve provides some value is in the event of return pump failure. But even in this case, I plan on using a sump high-water float to alert me of the problem, which can easily also shut off the skimmer. Add the fact that the size of the check valve further complicates my plumbing design and adds a small amount of additional head pressure - I come to the following conclusion...

For Sale - One never-used, 1 1/4" check valve.

Thank You h.cordero.

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

Unexpected Outcome

Unexpected Outcome

I was hoping I'd be posting photo's of my newly delivered tank at this moment, but it was not to be.

Delivery of the stand and sump went fine. When the tank was brought in and placed on the stand, I grabbed a couple of large LED flashlights and began the inspection. When I got to the dead center of the front of the tank, I found multiple scratches both inside and out.

My heart sank...

Had they been on the end panels, or perhaps toward the bottom I might have been able to overlook them - but dead center front panel, I could not accept.

To his credit, Steve and Great Lakes Aquariums acknowledged the problem and immediately loaded the tank back in their trailer. They hope to have a replacement tank built and delivered in 30 days.

 

[imchris]

How does that even happen? Bummer. :sad2:

 

[dave.m]

Make sure it's actually a new pane of glass and not the old one buffed out. Buffed glass/acrylic can have waves in it that can distort the view. This would be especially bad on the main viewing part of the pane.

Dave.M

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

How does that even happen? Bummer. :sad2:

Because there were scratches on both sides of the glass, I assume the glass was damaged prior to assembly, and might have been delivered to GLA damaged.

It's very difficult to see small scratches in a dry tank. Static causes lots of dust to adhere to the glass, making it tough to pick out imperfections. You also have to differentiate silicone smudges, fingerprints.... The only way I found these was through the use of 2 very bright LED flashlights, inspecting every inch of glass.

It's very disappointing, but I'm thankful I took the time to closely inspect the tank and found them prior to completing the build, aquascape and water (the scratches would be much more pronounced once water and light were added.) If discovered later, it would have been very difficult, if not impossible to look to the manufacturer for assistance.

The motto to my story - Film every step of the delivery and take however much time is needed to closely inspect your tank under bright lights (backlighting) before accepting delivery.

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

Make sure it's actually a new pane of glass and not the old one buffed out. Buffed glass/acrylic can have waves in it that can distort the view. This would be especially bad on the main viewing part of the pane.

Dave.M

Thanks Dave - GLA has indicated they are building a replacement tank and will sell this on as a scratch/dent.

 

[imchris]

It's very difficult to see small scratches in a dry tank. Static causes lots of dust to adhere to the glass, making it tough to pick out imperfections. You also have to differentiate silicone smudges, fingerprints.... The only way I found these was through the use of 2 very bright LED flashlights, inspecting every inch of glass.

New QC procedure. Inspect every inch of glass with 2 very bright LED flashlights.:thumbsup:

 

[SteelMastiff]

New QC procedure. Inspect every inch of glass with 2 very bright LED flashlights.:thumbsup:

I got burned because I didn't, so I definitely recommend it...

 

[Fury165]

Curious as to why the manufacturer didn't do a pre and post build inspection themselves. Would have saved them the lost labour and material costs, not to mention potential damage to their reputation.

Glad they are taking care of you though. It sucks to get delayed a month but in the end you would never be able to live with it since you know the defect is there.

Great build, can't wait for future updates

 

[Newbie Aquarist]

Make sure it's actually a new pane of glass and not the old one buffed out. Buffed glass/acrylic can have waves in it that can distort the view. This would be especially bad on the main viewing part of the pane.

Dave.M

I totally agree. A fellow reefer had the same problem and the manufacturer buffed the glass instead of replacing and after water was added they saw the imperfections.

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

I've got a few weeks remaining before the replacement tank is delivered, so I started to lay out the equipment in the sump and estimate the plumbing and electrical runs. I installed 32' of waterproof LED ribbon lights (48 Watts total) in the top of cabinet that will function as work lights.



They are much brighter than they appear - They are only running at about 60% while I wait on an new power supply. Eventually, I'll add a few door switches and connect them to the Apex via the break-out box so the cabinet is illuminated whenever a door is opened.

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

Thinking Rock...

Thinking Rock...

• Pukani, Reefsaver and Marco Rock....Check
• Assorted diamond blades and drills....Check
• Travertine tile, acrylic and nylon rod, epoxy and hydraulic cement.....Check

And so it begins...

 

[canyousee]

That's some good looking rock! Are you a wall of rock guy or more the tower with negative space kinda guy? Ether way looking forward to seeing the final result...

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

That's some good looking rock! Are you a wall of rock guy or more the tower with negative space kinda guy? Ether way looking forward to seeing the final result...

As it applies to Aquascaping, I'm a negative kind of guy.

Only a small fraction of the rock seen in that photo will find it's way into the tank. I'm hoping to apply some of the tenets of planted-tank "hardscapes" in this build. Because of the limited amount of rock, I'm using Marine Pure spheres and plates (currently curing in my grow-out tank) in the sump to provide supplemental bio-filtration. As an example...



This 12-long tank sits dry in the foyer of my home. Although an Iwagumi style will not work in a marine/coral environment (few places for corals), it's a good example of how much thought and focus is placed on the selection and placement of each "stone" (I spent more than 2 weeks creating that seemingly simple design.)

I don't have any preconceived notion of how it will turn out, but I want to put as much consideration and effort into the aquascape as was applied to the tank, systems and inhabitants. I'm ready for the challenge.

 

[nick12881]

• Pukani, Reefsaver and Marco Rock....Check
• Assorted diamond blades and drills....Check
• Travertine tile, acrylic and nylon rod, epoxy and hydraulic cement.....Check

And so it begins...

What type of hydraulic cement are you using and where did you find it ? I've been trying to find something like Marco rocks mortar build more cost efficient

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

What type of hydraulic cement are you using and where did you find it ? I've been trying to find something like Marco rocks mortar build more cost efficient

I was initially looking for Emaco s88 ci, but was unable to source any locally. I went with 30lbs of the Marco EM400, which I understand is Emaco 400 (Thorite) with the polymer binding agent Acryl 60. The acrylic polymer liquid mixes in with the cement creating a stickier, stronger more flexible bond.

 

[Newbie Aquarist]

I used the emaco 88 on my build. My friend had to order it in.

 

[nick12881]

I used the emaco 88 on my build. My friend had to order it in.

any idea where he got it ?